Recent content by 4x4junkie

You can swap over the t-case yoke/flange no problem. Both should be 1350s. Nice score. :icon_thumby:

Save those GM ends... You'll probably need them when you go to put a D35 under there (it's a little wider).

I strongly disagree with using a new race with an old (or different brand) bearing. Bearings & races wear into, or are 'mated' with each other after a bit. If you change one, the other should be changed as well. If the bearings are still in good shape w/fairly low miles, I'd put the races from...

Glad to hear you got it together. I did battle with these connectors myself a couple years ago... Seems Dorman either doesn't have their part numbers correct for this application or maybe they don't even make the right replacement connector at all (not one of the parts I bought would fit...

Mine has plenty adequate top-end power... It's the low-end torque that's nothing worth raving about (pretty normal for a 2.9L). I suggest you go get a timing light for it.

I replaced my fuel filler neck with a Ranger one also (said to fit a longbed truck). The tank end of the Ranger hose was a slight bit larger, but it'll still clamp around the BII tank opening once you tighten down the hose clamp.

I've used mine to tow a 6'x12' enclosed trailer on occasion with a weight around 3500lbs depending what I'm hauling. No doubt I can tell it's back there, but the 2.9L does maintain 65 MPH no problem if not on a grade while getting around 15 mpg. I agree with wildbill23c, your axle gear-to-tire...

Mine was getting around 26 mpg on the highway @ 60 or so mph before I lifted it. 2.9L, FM146 5-speed, 3.73 gears, 205/75R15 tires. When I had my 35" BFG MTs (with 5.13:1 gears), it dropped to around 22-23 at the same speed. Now with Goodyear MT/R-Ks and a M5OD it's down in the 20-21 range. :sad:

That's basically what I did, yeah. What I did was put the axle beams as far forward as I could while maintaining about ½ - ¾ inch clearance between the axle shaft and the driverside beam's pivot bolt (nut facing front of vehicle), and then marked the RA bracket holes for drilling. This actually...

Wow, I guess I somehow missed that one. (thread was rockin' pretty quick for a bit) Appreciate that Bobby. You're absolutely correct, it is more of a practical-built do-it-all rig for some campin' & wheelin' on the go (some of the nerds out there these days like to call it "overlanding" but I...

One thing I can tell you for sure, do NOT use Permatex adhesive. I made that mistake with mine and it started coming apart after not even 6 months (used over 1½ cans of the stuff too = $$$). I've heard several say 3M's stuff is good.

Yep. D35s can also be found in some 3.0L trucks, and all '91-'92 trucks regardless of motor. Beware of the "hybrid" D28/35 in some '93-'97 non-4.0L trucks though, you don't want one of those (pretty much all '93-'97 2.3 trucks have the hybrid axle). Info to I.D. them here...

Lookin' good :icon_thumby: Do get that steering linkage down further though.

'90-'97 4WD 4.0L Rangers & Explorers. '90 2.9L 4WD Rangers & BIIs (though M5ODs are more rare in these) You're not gonna tell us the city you're located in? (or maybe put it in your profile info)

Didn't answer the question... The FM145 is OK at best. I would swap it for a M5OD instead of rebuilding the FM145, but would run the 145 at least until it comes down with an issue (unless you were to do a 4.0L swap, then the 145 is likely to be a very short-timer).