My advice is the same. Blocks are cheaper but I've heard of people having them come out on trails. If its a street truck no big deal, IMO blocks look cheap too.
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Being offroad only it's not as if you have to worry bout roadside repairs. However as mentioned the 7.5 is weak.
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I was a newb and I was a e-stalker for months before I ever posted. And I bought premium membership to give back to the forum.
However I'll place from now on dad, I'm sorry.
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32's won't fit I think you'll have to get another vehicle.
Edit: I've heard of a forum called pirate4x4 that would definitely know what to do, you should ask those guys.
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My only beef with the new Cherokees is the uni-body. And the fact that Jeep's have the worst drivetrains IMO. I wouldn't want an Explorer either except the 302 so I can scavenge it for parts.
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The harness for the 4.0's are the same auto or manual. I noticed mine had extra plugs as well when I replaced the slave, they won't effect anything.
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I've heard of d30 working just fine so I'm not discounting it altogether. However in situations where you see more abuse (rock crawling) the baby finger d30 u-joint typically breaks, or an axle shaft. I've only had my hub shatter (I have stock ones).
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In comparison a jeep d30 is weaker than a ttb d35. And you will need a lot of money to make a d30 "good". A bronco d44 is the best bet however they are hard to find at junkyards. As mentioned above do some digging in the tech library, all the answers are there.
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A solid axle is an axle that is one piece, like in the picture above. You most likely have a TTB, which was Ford's attempt to make an independent front axle with the strength of a solid axle.
If you want both tires on your front axle to get the same amount of power you want a locker. A locker...
If your front axle is stock it will require a locker of some kind. Unless someone can tell me I'm wrong and they had a limited slip in yours.
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Ruffstuff makes great products for an sas. However you have to know what you want/need, they don't have "kits".
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