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i was thinking of moving my TTB forward some when i finish building my 35/44. looks like the easiest way would be to have another engine craddle and put it in front of the stock craddle. then drill the passenger frame rail for the drop bracket. only thing else i can see that one would need to...

why not stick with a smaller lift like a 4in or so. and ifs its not a crawler toy and just a beater snow truck, you can cut the fenders a bit, and not worry about being quite so top heavy. or just do a longer shackle in the rear, and the washer lift (under the stock coils), thats way cheap and...

i thought i read that you already go the house? or are you physically waiting for the keys?

looking good man!!! nice action shots

wagons can be on farms!

i thought our b2's were known as "station wagon's" but the question still remains.

even with my 2 in or whatever, i started hitting the stock wheel wells on the back corner. nothing sawsall can't handle tho

the fuel tank will be in the way when the axle goes to full bump! however it also makes a difference how far back the axle is moved. my wheelbase is 96in. i moved the axle back about 2in i think (correct me if i'm wrong) and so far i don't hit anything at full bump. you can also drill (with...

ya whats new on the b2 cheat?

i painted mine. wanted a two tone as well. did a diag stripe silver and red. only thing to keep in mind is that a stripe diag like mine makes the b2 look shorter. a horizontal stripe is gonna make it look longer. did ya get the aussie in yet?

that is exactly what i did!. however i left a little indent in the back to "capture" the coil and help level it out. had to even add a shim to one side. sorry i don't have any pics for ya of the coils bowing, i need to make some minor changes, but i want to build new coil buckets. might just...

true story all around guys. i'm not sure to having a coil that acts like... a coil! using some small 1/4in plate i'm sure i could add a bit of a shim to make it compress fairly even. when i first put them on the b2 stock buckets, they bowed out badly.

not to thread jack, but building coil buckets...... if a guy uses coils that aren't wound as tight as those, like i did. how do you get the coil to compress straight? i was going to build some buckets for me, but ive notices with it sitting on a flat plate, it compresses out or front or whatever...

if your going to relocate the tfi, i'd say to relocate it somewhere away from the firewall.

there is always the guys that says SAS is only way to go. TTB can work great! just takes some knowledge of the setup, the right part combination, and a little imagination!

steering is not done so its limiting the potential flex. but thats mine as of now.

i did this relocation, however i did not use any fancy wire or anything. no issues that i can relate to the relocation either. it is six wires if i recall right. depending on where you relocate to depends on how long you need to lengthen wires, but if you have any pointed question about this...

i was thinking of using a TRE on the pitman as well. not sure of the other options. and what do you mean set them so they rotate the correct way? top or bottom of the spindle shouldn't matter, right? my first thought is to go on top.

ok i follow ya on the "in phase" and i briefly looked at the napa chassis book today. we have a way to look at a tierod by size, and it gives the taper dimensions, as well as thread size. big chevy's was what i looked into first, get one left and one right hand, but then what does a guy do for...

instead of building another thread which will likely be posted by the same people as this one i pose a question if a guy was to build a stonecrusher style steering with TRE's, like i'd like to do, whats the general idea on the pitman connection point? I plan on doing to searching on some TRE's...