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1984 Bronco II flywheel


darkd0r

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Gathering parts to replace the clutch on an early (09/83) Bronco II with 183k on it, and everywhere I look the flywheel listings only go back to 1985.
I live out in the boonies and would like to have all parts on hand before starting the job.
Thanks.
 


dave84b2

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stock 2.8.. 231,257 miles still going strong!! rebuilt 2.8 bored .040 has 5,000 miles now 11/14/20
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4wd
if you have the 1984 you can use the one for a 1985-88 2.9 just have to knock the inner bearing out of it, then it is identical to what you already have, that is what i did and all is just fine. i got mine on rockauto.com , they have the throwout bearing and all but that must be for the 1984 either 4 speed or 5 speed transmission i have the toyo kogo transmission in a 4 speed.. hope the helps.
 

darkd0r

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dave, thanks for the reply.

A Toyo Kogyo 4 spd is in it now. I found some pix on car-part.com which show the bearing in later years' flywheel. What pilot bearing did you use, the 1984 version?

I have a 5 spd from a 1989 (Mitsu FM146), but would need different driveshafts. That may have to wait on finances, but OD would be so nice on the highway around here..
 

dave84b2

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stock 2.8.. 231,257 miles still going strong!! rebuilt 2.8 bored .040 has 5,000 miles now 11/14/20
Suspension Style
4wd
dave, thanks for the reply.

A Toyo Kogyo 4 spd is in it now. I found some pix on car-part.com which show the bearing in later years' flywheel. What pilot bearing did you use, the 1984 version?

I have a 5 spd from a 1989 (Mitsu FM146), but would need different driveshafts. That may have to wait on finances, but OD would be so nice on the highway around here..
Your welcome, @darkd0r, you use the 1984 pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing all for the 1984, the flywheel from 86-88 2.9, knock the bearing out, with the 5 speed FM 146 you would have to replace the rear trans mount that goes from frame to frame, the toyo kogo sits sideways, the fm146 sits straight, so a different trans mount is a must for a swap. Plus the pilot bearing has to come out, and then all parts for clutch would be for the 85-88 that includes the hydraulic assembly also,. OD would be ok but in the specs you gain 1 mpg is all.. and the 2.8 v6 is a high rev engine and likes the 3,000 rpm range.. i run mine at 60 mph at 2,500 for best fuel mileage at 19.4 , if i run at 70 mph at 3,000 rpm it gets 17 mpg..at rockauto.com here is the info- 1986 bronco II 2.9 LUK LFW188 Flywheel at 41.79 , 1984 bronco II 2.8 Perfection clutch kit MU478011E 67.79, this is what i used.. the clutch kit has all parts needed.
15228
15228
 

darkd0r

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Thanks again, dave. The OD swap doesn't make sense on paper, maybe, but living where I do, it's 20 miles to the grocery store, pharmacy, etc. The only road is a 2-lane "secondary" highway where the traffic runs at 70+. I hate to be a roadblock for my friends and neighbors.
 

dave84b2

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stock 2.8.. 231,257 miles still going strong!! rebuilt 2.8 bored .040 has 5,000 miles now 11/14/20
Suspension Style
4wd
@darkd0r , Your welcome, if you look at your rear transmission mount then look at one from a 1986 with the fm146 mitsubishi you will see the difference. It is straight across frame to frame, yours is stepped up and attaches on one side= drivers side, to the lower part of the frame and on the other side=pass side it attaches to the middle of the frame. The other attaches to the lower part of the frame on both sides. Yours is made to go over the exhaust pipe the other is made to go under the exhaust pipe. The picture should match yours on the transmission mount.
15231
 

Broncomeat

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dave, thanks for the reply.

A Toyo Kogyo 4 spd is in it now. I found some pix on car-part.com which show the bearing in later years' flywheel. What pilot bearing did you use, the 1984 version?

I have a 5 spd from a 1989 (Mitsu FM146), but would need different driveshafts. That may have to wait on finances, but OD would be so nice on the highway around here..
I put a M5OD from a 93 Ranger in my 84 B2, Had to use all of the clutch parts from the 93 but it works great. I shortened the rear driveshaft myself. It is holding up well so far.
 

darkd0r

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That's interesting. Did you cut a section out of the shaft, or did you cut off the end of the shaft with the yoke and weld a new yoke onto the shortened shaft?
How did you keep the driveshaft straight while welding?
What rod and amperage, or tig?
I don't suppose the piece removed could be welded into the front shaft, ha ha.:c-n::rolleyes:
 

Broncomeat

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That's interesting. Did you cut a section out of the shaft, or did you cut off the end of the shaft with the yoke and weld a new yoke onto the shortened shaft?
How did you keep the driveshaft straight while welding?
What rod and amperage, or tig?
I don't suppose the piece removed could be welded into the front shaft, ha ha.:c-n::rolleyes:
I cut the weld where the yoke connects to the shaft, then cut the needed length from the shaft and slid the yoke back into the shaft. I made a couple of marks on the shaft and the yoke so that I could keep it clocked correctly. I have not done the front yet but I' hoping I can find something that fits. Otherwise I think I would have to cut the yoke weld at both ends of the shaft and just add a new length of shaft.
 

Broncomeat

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I cut the weld where the yoke connects to the shaft, then cut the needed length from the shaft and slid the yoke back into the shaft. I made a couple of marks on the shaft and the yoke so that I could keep it clocked correctly. I have not done the front yet but I' hoping I can find something that fits. Otherwise I think I would have to cut the yoke weld at both ends of the shaft and just add a new length of shaft.
Oh and I used a mig set at the correct setting for the shaft wall thickness.
 

darkd0r

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Oh and I used a mig set at the correct setting for the shaft wall thickness.
Thanks for the info. One of these days I'll have to actually do something instead of thinking about it.
 

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