1986 Bronco II ( just a little freshening up)

[Gen. Maintenance]

Sorry this is so long I believe I’ve been posting in the wrong section this is several days of trouble shooting.


DAY 1
So I finally got me one. Last week I purchased a 1986 Bronco II that started its life as an automatic. The PO has the auto trans swapped out for the manual and also replaced the transfer case to non electronic hand select type case. Exterior (except for paint) is perfect! Not a single dent, no severe rust, and only 150k miles. So far I’ve given it a freshening up. New plugs, wires, distributor, fuel filters, valve cover gaskets all the basic maintenance things you would do to a 35 year old vehicle. Took old girl on her maiden voyage yesterday Had to start it at the relay and it ended in catastrophe. So far I’ve identified a heavy clicking sound coming from the front drivers side wheel, both my front brakes locked up, the truck over heated and the starter relay failed and now runs the starter as soon as the cable is applied to the battery, no I’m stuck with a no start situation. Can’t hear the fuel pump prime, won’t crank on starting fluid. Its all good though. I’ve wanted one of these since I was 15. Got a new master cylinder, axle shaft, wheel bearings, fuel pump relay, and a whole assortment of vaccine lines in the way. I’m mostly posting this To remind myself what I’ve done, but I hope it helps someone out as I beat the gremlins out of this thing.

DAY 2
Currently in a crank but no start situation fuel pump does not prime during koeo and no spark while cranking,

1.) replaced all fusible links with a fuse block and corresponding fuse sizes.
2.) attempted to reset inertia switch under passenger side carpet.
3.) tested fuel pump by jumping pins at fuel pump relay connector.
4.) checked for spark with spark tester at several cylinders

Trouble shot it as being a possible ecm issue, trouble shot ecm relay and connector by

1.) checking for proper ground at connector checks at 5ohm
2.) checked for incoming power at relay 12v
3.)checked for output power on relay (NOTHING)

So now I’m working on why I’m not getting any out voltage at the relay. If the fusible link is good and the connector is grounded it should be good.
Attached is a really useful link for how to diagnose a bad EEC relay or connector

Part 3 -Testing the Ford EEC Power Relay (Brown Relay)

DAY3

SUCCESS!!! I scored a few spare parts from the local pick n’ pull (EEC, Inertia switch, fuel pump relay). I had enough free time to put them all in and after blowing a bunch of what I thought were the right size fuses to replace the fusable links, I managed to get her to fire. The EEC relay gets warm and the wire from the starter relay to the eec gets HOT, but only the short section I replaced. I’m not really sure what’s going on the possibly to small a gauge of wire.

next step is to one at a time remove the parts I replaced and see which one was at fault.

 

[Gen. Maintenance]

Problem solved, short in the supply line to the fuel pump relay. No further issues, still haven’t done a test drive to check out the brakes but we’ll see.

 

[Gen. Maintenance]

Quick update, since I got it running and driving I’ve started replacing basics. Got a new starter and duralast gold relay. Probably the most simple starter replacement I’ve ever done, two bolts and a wire and your done. I went ahead and replaced every vacume hose I could get my hands on, if anyone’s actually reading this and knows where to get the line from the bottom of the throttle body to the charcoal canister let me know. I replaced the idle air bypass and gasket as well as the MAF. Next was some new valve cover grommets. Did a full inspection of the wire harness for stripped spots and broken connections and finished with some new Sylvia headlights. Does anyone have a part number for the u joints in the axles? Are they all the same? Found out my high pressure fuel pump brackets missing and it’s just been bouncing around down there, luckily I was able to snag one of an old ranger at the pick n pull. If anyone’s got any freshening up suggestions or even exists in this forum I’m all ears.

 

[JerryC]

Just some random stuff;
Check and clean the grounds. Should be at least a ground to the engine and frame, battery to core support and engine to firewall (drivers cyl head). My BII had a really crusty O2 connector, the high pressure fuel pump had one of the connectors widen out over time and cause intermittent fuel delivery issues.

Check/replace the grommet at the brake booster.

If you smell gas while driving, there is a grommet on the gas tank for the EVAP line that dry rots. Bummer is that you either have to drop the tank or cut a hole in the floor to get to it. BTDT.

Check the radius arm bushings, they tend to be neglected and if they get worn out you get metal to metal on the arm and bracket and eventually it will break. You may not hear or feel this happening. Also it will make the handling worse.

For cold weather, make sure the heat riser tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the fresh air intake is in place.
Heater cores are easy to replace and most of the older Rangers and BII's have partially clogged heater cores. If your BII doesn't put out heat like a dragon, replace the core.

The plastic engine cooling fan likes to dry out and crack, the fan clutch is probably pretty old too, they may be contributing to your overheating.
Overheating is not good on these engines, check the oil for coolant.

How is your weather stripping and door/hatch bushings? Replacing those will quiet a lot of rattles.

 

[Gen. Maintenance]

Awesome info man thanks for the reply!!!

 

[Gen. Maintenance]

Since my last posts I’ve done a little more work. Some functional some cosmetic.

Ill start by saying this, I did something dumb. I was having an issue with my brakes locking up, like all the way up. I had just changed my master cylinder and vacume lines/ grommets to the booster so I figured it was either the brake lines or calipers. While changing the calipers I didn’t think about the wedge/key that’s inside of the spindle nut if you’ve got auto locking hubs. I figured the nut was stuck because it got super hot when the brakes seized. I put a 4’ beaker bar in that sucker which broke the nut and sent that sucker to Mars. No joke the wedge left atmosphere. So the little bronco now has self locking hubs. ( plenty of write ups in here so I’ll skip it)

the second modification I made was swapping out my nonexistent dash lighting with leds. Super brightness.com carries direct replacement led 194’s for this project I ordered 25 for 80$ with shipping. You only need about 10

first step is to remove the light switch knob by placing a screwdriver or pick in the slot and pulling it out (see photos)

next is removing the ashtray by pressing down on the tab in the center and pulling out

then remove the three lower panels GENTLY! to expose the screws holding down black tabs the panels are held on with spewing clips I recommend evenly prying from opposite ends.

after removing the screws there are 4 screws under the hood that comes over the dash cluster they are easily visible.

next in the floorboard near the fire wall you will find your Speedo cable attached with one Philliph’s screw.

Once you’ve removed all the screws the dash cluster faceplate will come off and expose the remaining screws holding in the gauge cluster remove these screws and gently pull out your gauge cluster ( it will not come all the way out so not force it.

remive the two connectors by squeezing the sides and pulling out, remove the speedo cable by pressing down on the tab and pulling out. ( remember to hold your mouth just right)

the black caps in the picture below are the 194’s twist counter clockwise and pull out. The bulbs then pull out of the black connector and you just pop yours in.

before you put everything back together I recommend plugging the gauge cluster in and testing the lights, mine seemed to be directional and I had to take some out and rotate them to make them work.

If you need instructions to put it all back together just read this in reverse lol

good luck and I hope this helps.

 

[3Stgs]

Don’t know if you still have your BII but great write ups! Surprisingly there is not much quality info about these cars, especially pre-1988. I have an 86 also and am constantly searching for a wide variety of information, thanks for your input!