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89 Bronco II Starter


Elijah1989

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I just bought a 1989 Bronco II (a long dream of mine to own another one since my first car was a 1986 Bronco II). It has the 2.9L V6 in it. The guy I bought it from kinda did a number on it. He said the truck wouldn't start and the clutch was bad. He replaced the clutch (still doesn't work, you can move the shifter in between all gears with out pressing in the clutch (I think he installed it backwards)) and the fly wheel. He said when he would try to start it it would grind really bad and never turn over. He was told to shim the starter and still no luck. So I picked it up for pretty cheap hoping I can fix it.

Do y'all have a direction you could point me in to try to make it start with the key instead of pushing starting it once I get the clutch figured out.

Any ideas would be helpful.

Thanks,
Elijah
 


wildbill23c

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Check the clutch that it is properly installed, check that the flywheel is installed properly.

Does the starter spin? Has it been tested to function properly? Take it out and have it tested for proper operation.

I had an 84 Bronco 2 that had all sorts of starter issues after 3-4 times starting the starter would slip out of position and wouldn't engage the flywheel or it would just grind. Never got that fixed as I ended up scrapping it due to the major body rust issues.
 

Elijah1989

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Starter does spin. Someone told me the guy might have installed clutch backwards. I'll have to test that out. Starter does spin. Sounds like it's not engaging properly by the grinding noise. I'll take starter off to make sure it is working properly.

Thanks for the tips.

Elijah
 

buck119fa

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I agree with Wildbill, take the starter to the parts store and have it tested.
Then to just be done with questioning the clutch I'd either pull that tranny out and redo it or take it to a shop and have it done, either way if you question the work, go back and do it correctly and replace what ever is needed. check the flywheel and make sure all the teeth are good and resurface it while it's out
 

Elijah1989

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Thank you for responses. I have a vacation in 2 weeks and will let y'all know how it goes. :icon_thumby:
 

wildbill23c

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Really not sure you could install a clutch backwards, in fact I don't think its possible without some serious struggling and different bolts to make it work...err...not work LOL.

I'd seriously just take it to a shop and have them go through it unless you are able to do it on your own. I'd buy a new clutch kit and replace it...no telling what shortcuts or damage the PO did to it.

Take that starter to a shop and have it tested. The starter doesn't just spin, the gear should move towards the cone of the starter when it kicks over if it doesn't that is why the starter isn't engaging and I don't think you can buy rebuild kits for them anymore so you would need a new starter at that point. Also, if the starter is catching or binding on the flywheel due to an improper install it can cause damage to the teeth in the starter and/or flywheel.

Get it all checked out when you can.
 

Elijah1989

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Well.... I tried fixing the starter and well.... didn't go well. When I turn the key the starter no longer spins. I noticed some very iffy wiring the PO did. There is a direct line that goes to the starter. They ran it down the side of the engine then under the bottom of it... No other wire is available to connect the starter. I checked the starter solenoid and it seems to be wired corrected; I'm just at a lost about the interesting wiring. I've never seen someone do a direct wire to the starter like that. The Negative terminal from the battery connects directly to the engine. So I'm not even sure how the battery gets charged from the alternator. I'm hoping I don't have to completely rewire this truck, but so far I'm at $500 for the truck + starter and not to much more wiggle room to do wiring after I put a new clutch kit in.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks!
 

wildbill23c

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The positive wire should go to the starter solenoid, then another large positive wire from the other side of the solenoid to the starter. The solenoid is just a switch basically that when you turn the key to start it closes the switch in the solenoid and allows power to flow through the large battery cable across the solenoid to the other cable that connects to the alternator.

There should be other wires on the starter solenoid but I can't remember what goes where, but someone with better brain power should be able to clear that part up.
 

Elijah1989

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The other wire on solenoid is to the instrument panel. Ok so the problem is with the starter then. I'll play around with the main wire running from solenoid to starter to make sure It hasn't rubbed bare against the engine. Thank you WildBill for the help. Any idea what should be running off the alternator to the battery? I don't want replace battery every few weeks because truck won't charge itself. Once I get it running Of course. Lol


Thanks again,

Elijah
 

Elijah1989

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Ok. Got a brand new starter in her. I had starter wire on solenoid accidentally touch the battery cable on the solenoid (when I was tightening bolt on starter wire it turned a little and made contact. So when I re-attached battery the truck consistently tried to start itself.

Release battery cable, fixed wires and then nothing. Keys wouldn't start truck. Bridging both sides of solenoid wouldn't start it (only created a lot of sparks). Putting starter wire directly on battery I wouldn't start. It would arch. And actually started eating away at battery terminal.

I talked to a buddy of mine and he said try putting a new battery in but I think there is a short (but starter wire is solid, no cuts) or it isn't grounded properly.

Any ideas? The next thing I tackle is why turning the key doesn't start the truck. That has to be a bad wire somewhere.

Thanks

Elijah
 

JerryC

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take the new starter back to the store and have them test it.
 

wildbill23c

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Ok. Got a brand new starter in her. I had starter wire on solenoid accidentally touch the battery cable on the solenoid (when I was tightening bolt on starter wire it turned a little and made contact. So when I re-attached battery the truck consistently tried to start itself.

Release battery cable, fixed wires and then nothing. Keys wouldn't start truck. Bridging both sides of solenoid wouldn't start it (only created a lot of sparks). Putting starter wire directly on battery I wouldn't start. It would arch. And actually started eating away at battery terminal.

I talked to a buddy of mine and he said try putting a new battery in but I think there is a short (but starter wire is solid, no cuts) or it isn't grounded properly.

Any ideas? The next thing I tackle is why turning the key doesn't start the truck. That has to be a bad wire somewhere.

Thanks

Elijah
Check all the fuses, also you most likely fried the solenoid when you arc'd the battery cable.
 

Elijah1989

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I got her running. New starter, all new battery cables, starter solenoid, and starter switch. Now is the next problem lol.



These were the spark plugs I just pulled out whole changing them, the wires, distributor and distributor rotor. They are coated in oil. Not a good sign right?

Is this calling for a head replacement, or seals around cylinders? Or a total rebuild or do I just need to invest in another engine??


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JerryC

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Before I did anything drastic like pull the motor or heads, I'd assess how it is doing with fresh plugs and oil and filters, etc...
Does it leak from the valve covers? If so, pull the vc's and look at what is underneath, it could be filled with goo and causing oil to pool up there.
I'd do a fresh oil change and think about doing it with 1qt of Marvel Mystery oil and 4qt of oil. Driving it around easy for a couple of hundred mile and see what you have as far as oil consumption and blow-by and tail pipe smoke. If it say and the oils was nasty you might have stuck rings letting lots of oil and blow-by past them. this "might" help.
I've seen oil burning oil leaking engines keep going for tens of thousands of miles, just depends on your tolerance for adding oil and crop dusting the road behind you :)
 

Elijah1989

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I can tolerate burning oil. My 5.4 Triton drinks it 1-2 quarts a changing depending if I'm hauling or not.

I think the 2.9l leaks from everywhere lol. I did an oil Change on it 3 days ago. I can't drive it because the clutch isn't working. I can't decide if I want to tackle that or not. And the engine still needs a little work. She won't stay cranked unless you keep giving her gas. Fuel filter is my next replacement. Followed by pump.

I noticed one of the vacuum lines broken on it so it could be that.

At this point I don't think I could throw a rock and not hit a problem with her.


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JerryC

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I can tolerate burning oil. My 5.4 Triton drinks it 1-2 quarts a changing depending if I'm hauling or not.

I think the 2.9l leaks from everywhere lol. I did an oil Change on it 3 days ago. I can't drive it because the clutch isn't working. I can't decide if I want to tackle that or not. And the engine still needs a little work. She won't stay cranked unless you keep giving her gas. Fuel filter is my next replacement. Followed by pump.

I noticed one of the vacuum lines broken on it so it could be that.
Mine leaked like a sieve when I got it. Had the VC gaskets changed and after using MMO to clean up the sludge inside the engine I started using "high mileage" oil in it. First couple of oil changes it came out weird, thick and sticky but after that it is more normal. Slowed down the leaks too.

The other things I did was try Startron in the gas to clean up the injectors, and fuel system in general along with replacing the ACT, PCV and Idle air valve and new plugs and air filter. Also a general cleanup of the throttle body. Each thing helped a little and in sum made a big difference.
 

Elijah1989

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I put some sea foam in gas to help clean up injectors, but since I can't drive it due to the clutch I just have to let idle a little every day. And by idle I mean keeping my foot on the gas. lol.

I'm going to get a kit to do a compression test before I replace vc's to make sure it isn't rings. I don't want to replace vc's and it end up needing to be rebuild or replaced depending on price. When I did the oil change I got a high mileage filter and the oil also.

I don't know what ACT, PCV is and I think I can figure out the idle air valve. If compression comes back good then I'll be looking at vc's and its seal.


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