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A4LD problem.....


duffy

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When I got this this B2 (1989 4x4 auto) the trans shifted oddly ( hard 1-2 and 2-3 shifts). I flushed the trans and made sure it was good clean fluid at the proper level. Discovered the vacuum shift module was allowing trans fluid into the intake so replaced the module. Then the trans wouldn't shift out of 1st unless the throttle was eased up on and then it was a hard shift (this all sounds familiar so far eh?). All the other shifts are normal. Dropped the transfer case and pulled the governor (it was a bit stiff but not stuck). Polished all the surfaces with a used 2000 grit sanding belt until the plunger worked smoothly. Put it all back together and it "seems" to shift a bit better but still not right.

What is my next step? Rebuild/rebuilt valve body? Any suggestions?
 


wildbill23c

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You could try a valve body, but given its age may as well rebuild it and put upgraded parts in it. The A4LD has to be one of the worst transmissions ever built given the huge number of failures. Trouble is the Bronco 2 is only worth a few hundred bucks, and a transmission rebuild to have it done right is a couple thousand bucks.
 

duffy

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Yeah, I'm willing to do the cost of a valve body but they want almost $2K to rebuild the tranny. It doesn't slip or anything else, just the odd shifting and that seems to be getting better after I put a container of Lube Gard in it yesterday and then drove it 150 miles today. I'll probably put a couple of hundred more miles on it and then do a fluid and filter change and maybe a re-built valve body.
 

XTC90BII

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A very old wise man once told me to never do a transmission flush on an old transmission that is working well. Always do a fluid drain. Drain all the fluid you can, install a new filter fill up with new fluid and move on. That the flush will brake crude loose that has built up in the transmission over the years and plug up all kinds of things. Doing a flush from the very start is one thing but doing it a 100K in is just asking for trouble.

Dennis
 

duffy

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I've heard that one myself.....my flush is just a "complete" change of fluid (ie fluid run through until clean fluid is seen).
 

wildbill23c

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A very old wise man once told me to never do a transmission flush on an old transmission that is working well. Always do a fluid drain. Drain all the fluid you can, install a new filter fill up with new fluid and move on. That the flush will brake crude loose that has built up in the transmission over the years and plug up all kinds of things. Doing a flush from the very start is one thing but doing it a 100K in is just asking for trouble.

Dennis
I was told that by my transmission shop too. A shop also informed me some vehicles and I assume newer ones have a one way valve in them that prevents you from being able to do a flush at all, and I guess the 08 Explorer that I recently purchased is one of those as well. I had no idea if the transmission was ever serviced in my Explorer so I just had the pan dropped and fluid drained/refilled and new filter, that way...seems to work just fine that way. I do need to do the same on my 88 Bronco 2 as I haven't done it since the transmission was rebuilt in 2016.
 

duffy

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I am playing with the modulator adjustment currently and I've made two "minor" adjustments so far and it seems to be shifting better. I'll just keep adjusting until it doesn't get any better and then I'll live with it for awhile. I've got way more important stuff to get done before a tranny or even a valve body re-build.
 

duffy

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Time for an update to this thread......took out the governor and cleaned it up (it was a bit sticky) re-installed and it was "better" but not right. I replaced the valve body with a refurbished one and that fixed a number of shifting oddities but I lost OD and the 1-2 and 2-1 shifts still weren't "right". Replaced the governor with a refurbished one from Cobra transmission (came with a 35mm weight) and now the 1-2 and 2-1 shifts are the way they should be. Dropped the valve body and replace the 3-4 shift solenoid with a new one (after making sure I had a good 12 volts to them). No luck (the old solenoid read 23 ohms like it should). Is there any way to check/ verify the ground from the ECM that commands the shift? Any other things in the valve body that could cause the OD problem? Thanks for any help/ideas.
 

duffy

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I do believe I have found my 3-4 shift problem (or lack of). The shift cable has never been "right" so I tried to adjust it with the procedure for the same general year of F150. By being "very" careful of the needle position it will shift thru all four gears, up and down. I believe it's still off by a hair. Anyone know the exact procedure for a column mounted auto cable adjustment?
 

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