changing engines

[emo666]

Replacing a worn out 2.9 with air and auto trans with a rebuilt 2.9.
I'm not a novice but would like some experienced advice.
1. Is there a special wrench available for the distributor bolt??
2. When pulling the old engine had to remove both upper -lower manifold and distributor to access the top bell housing bolts. NO ROOM.
3. when reinstalling the new engine does all this have to be installed on short block when installed??
I would like to be able to install mostly everything on the engine stand to make sure I get a good seal.
5. I'm not real happy about having to install the distributor after the new engine is in but that's what I can see now.
6. Is there a different way that I don't see??

P.S I have a old manual but it just says put things back in reverse order.

 

[adsm08]

There is a special wrench that is made for the dis bolt. I bought one years ago and found it to be largely useless as a medium length 13mm wrench fits better and has better range of motion. I also have ad great success using a flex-head ratcheting 13mm on the upper bell bolts, and been able to remove both easily with everything else in place. In fact, those are usually the first two pieces to come out when I remove my transmission.

I have managed on several occasions to pull out and reinstall fully dressed 2.9s, complete from fan to clutch. I generally only take the TFI and dis cap off because they are plastic and can be easily broken if they hit the firewall or cowl. If my strap is not long enough I will remove the upper intake, but it's not usually and issue. For some reason it was really easy to just slide them in and out of my truck, but the BII I had to tip it and then turn it transverse to the body. I think it's the Evap box that gets in the way.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

There is a special wrench that is made for the dis bolt. I bought one years ago and found it to be largely useless as a medium length 13mm wrench fits better and has better range of motion. I also have ad great success using a flex-head ratcheting 13mm on the upper bell bolts, and been able to remove both easily with everything else in place. In fact, those are usually the first two pieces to come out when I remove my transmission.

I have managed on several occasions to pull out and reinstall fully dressed 2.9s, complete from fan to clutch. I generally only take the TFI and dis cap off because they are plastic and can be easily broken if they hit the firewall or cowl. If my strap is not long enough I will remove the upper intake, but it's not usually and issue. For some reason it was really easy to just slide them in and out of my truck, but the BII I had to tip it and then turn it transverse to the body. I think it's the Evap box that gets in the way.

:icon_rofl:

Adsm got it. I bought one of those tools for the distributor too, but it sits in my toolbox brand new and never used. I've always just climbed on top of the motor and reached down there with a wrench. It's a PITA any way you slice it. For the top bellhousing bolts I've climbed on top of the motor and used a half-inch wrench. I'll use a 6-point to break 'em free and a 12 point to work them out. It's slow, tedious, and it sucks, but it works. Last time I had to do them in my choptop I discovered that with the body lift (2"), I could see all of the bolts from below. So I took a deep socket, my impact swivel, 24" extension and a 6" extension and my 1/2" drive ratchet and went to town. Not sure if you could do it without a body lift but I'll probably find out next year when I get to work on my 88 again.

I've never pulled the intakes to swap engines. Never pulled the fan either, although I have yanked the radiator to give myself some extra room. Since you have to pull the hoses and the fan shroud anyway, it's just two more bolts and the hose for the overflow to pull the rad. Only time I've pulled an intake to swap a motor is when we did the 5.0 in my dad's Ranger. I pulled the upper intake to help things along since we jammed the engine and trans in together without pulling the radiator support. The whole thing had to be tipped almost vertical so we needed the little bit of extra room. Left the fan on the front too, believe it or not.

Putting the distributor in and getting the timing set is the real pain. I've had to pull and re-set a distributor trying to get it close enough to start so I could set the timing so many times. I'll usually get it to TDC on #1 and play with the dizzy till it's set as close as I can but leave the hold-down tight enough to hold it but loose enough that I can twist it around by hand. Then I'll have someone crank it over and if it doesn't fire right away, I'll start slowly twisting the dizzy till it kicks to life. Then I'll do the timing. Distributor pretty much has to be off the 2.9 to get the motor in or out without breaking it.

 

[adsm08]

I have yanked the radiator to give myself some extra room.

Almost forgot about that. For the amount of actual extra "work" involved in getting the rad out it is a MUST IMO to for taking the engine out. It actually is a must if you can't get the fan off.

Also, with the risk of hitting and damaging the rad and the cost of a new (even a new used) one it's just not worth it to leave it in.

Distributor pretty much has to be off the 2.9 to get the motor in or out without breaking it.

Telling you man, that 's just not true. I have taken out 3 2.9s and installed 2 more with the distributor in place and fully assembled. I think the most I ever do is remove the TFI and cap so they don't get broken.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Almost forgot about that. For the amount of actual extra "work" involved in getting the rad out it is a MUST IMO to for taking the engine out. It actually is a must if you can't get the fan off.

Also, with the risk of hitting and damaging the rad and the cost of a new (even a new used) one it's just not worth it to leave it in.

True enough!

Telling you man, that 's just not true. I have taken out 3 2.9s and installed 2 more with the distributor in place and fully assembled. I think the most I ever do is remove the TFI and cap so they don't get broken.

I've pulled 3 or 4 of 'em so far. I don't remember why but I do remember taking the distributor out of at least 2 of 'em. And I remember that because of all the fussing involved in getting the distributor set for timing again. Not saying your wrong, mind you, just saying I remember fighting with the stupid thing, lol.

 

[adsm08]

There is a definite trick to it. It's all about angles.

 

[emo666]

There is a special wrench that is made for the dis bolt. I bought one years ago and found it to be largely useless as a medium length 13mm wrench fits better and has better range of motion. I also have ad great success using a flex-head ratcheting 13mm on the upper bell bolts, and been able to remove both easily with everything else in place. In fact, those are usually the first two pieces to come out when I remove my transmission.

I have managed on several occasions to pull out and reinstall fully dressed 2.9s, complete from fan to clutch. I generally only take the TFI and dis cap off because they are plastic and can be easily broken if they hit the firewall or cowl. If my strap is not long enough I will remove the upper intake, but it's not usually and issue. For some reason it was really easy to just slide them in and out of my truck, but the BII I had to tip it and then turn it transverse to the body. I think it's the Evap box that gets in the way.

I definitely appreciate your replys and need them.
BUT---I don't think I have the room you guys are talking about.
There's no way a 13mm wrench would have fit between the evap box and the tranny tunnel rim and I couldn't even get my hand that far down and break the distr bolt lose without the upper manifold out. Trying to reach around the back side of distr didn't work either.
I guess I'll have to make a wrench
Another problem area is attaching the tranny dip stick and ground--even with the bottom manifold on I can just barely touch them (under evap box)
A real bitch I have is why they put the retaining clip for the wiring to the distributor facing the rear of the bronco. If it were facing the fan you could see to remove it (I broke the whole side out of the male plug that slides in the distr housing)
One more question I may have to leave the center from top bell housing bolt out. Will that effect anything unforeseen??
I can't wait till I get to play with that distributor ( I may have to resort to my old habits---DRINKING)
P.S.--I pulled the radiator first and the fan(after finding it was reverse thread)

 

[ab_slack]

I definitely appreciate your replys and need them.
There's no way a 13mm wrench would have fit between the evap box and the tranny tunnel rim and I couldn't even get my hand that far down and break the distr bolt lose without the upper manifold out. Trying to reach around the back side of distr didn't work either.

I found this to be a bit of a bugger to get at, but it was possible. The hardest thing was just seeing it, but once I got some light back there, climbed up on top as previously mentioned, between that and feel I was able to get a wrench on it.

I am pretty sure I used a swivel and a long extension. The long extension 10" or 12" (possibly a long plus one 4" short one) was able to extend up clear of everything. I may have also had a short 4" extension between the swivel and the bolt.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It's definitely a tight fit to get in there without a body lift. But it can be done. I've done it more times than I care to and will probably still end up doing it again. Even a 1" body lift would make things a bit more accessible though.

I want to say that stock 86 2.9's have the EGR setup. If I was swapping motors, I would ditch that and use the block-off plate on the intake from a newer truck. Ford experimented with using EGR on the 2.9 and found that it was not needed, so it was ditched on later models. Thus it is ok to remove because you are going to a "newer" motor style. It'll also take some of the extra plumbing out of your way, lol.

As far as the TFI module goes on the distributor (the thing the plug attaches to), IIRC to remove you are supposed to push the end of the retaining tab down and pull, it's a split tab and pushing it down separates it to be pulled out. There is also a conversion that has been discussed before (try searching the 2.9 engine forum) to relocate the TFI module to the inner fender.

 

[iron butt]

I used a 1'4" drive 13mm with a universal and a short extension to get to the distributor bolt. Bell house bolts are just a pita, 1/4" drive rachet after breaking them loose and fingers.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

I recommend using about 24" of extensions with a swivel and taking the bolts off from underneath. Might try going through the hole in the trans tunnel where the shifter comes up?