86EddieBroncoII
New member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2016
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 0
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- Location
- CT
- Vehicle Year
- 1986
- Vehicle
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.9L
This seems to be a pretty dead forum unfortunately, just like all the others I'm on... BUT I figured I would ask anyways.
Looking to do a Conversion style driveshaft to replace my GKN style. I have yet to break that one but the boot split on the one original to the truck and the spare boot I had from another one has now also split and you can't get those tulip boots anywhere. SO time for the change.
The question I have is the output of the transfer case is rather level vs the input of the pinon on the rear which is pointed up. When you compare the two angles of the driveshaft the output on the transfer case is clearly more aggressive... going into the rear is more of a straight shot. I've seen info that you should try to keep the U-joints at the same angles to cancel out the oscillation that can be generated by them. Obviously this is not a problem with the existing CV joint because of it's design but I was wondering if I should be looking at reversing the direction of the leaf wedge at the bottom to aim the pinion further down. The truck has a Rough Country 4" lift on it, front springs and rear leafs were swapped out, it's not on blocks.
This is the Geometry I'm assuming I should be shooting for...
Sadly the front is also not at the proper angles and I feel that is due to the 4" lift dropping the diff's and the transfer case staying where it is but I'm not positive on that since just lowering the diff's should not change the angle of them. Especially the front... if it was parallel to the transfer case originally it should still be, just lower. The rear however there are wedges under the leaf pack so those could have been twisted 180 from where they should be. I was not the one to install the 4" lift kit, we bought it with that done already.
If I can do nothing and just install it then that's great, but if I need to keep these two angles as close as possible, I would like to know that ahead of time before I waste the effort of installing it and having it break something.
I'm also going to measure the distance because I read on here a few people lifting their truck 4" and the BroncoGraveyard U-joint style shaft was now too short... I may go for the 33-36" length one vs the 30-33 which is listed as what a factory 86 with an auto would use.
Looking to do a Conversion style driveshaft to replace my GKN style. I have yet to break that one but the boot split on the one original to the truck and the spare boot I had from another one has now also split and you can't get those tulip boots anywhere. SO time for the change.
The question I have is the output of the transfer case is rather level vs the input of the pinon on the rear which is pointed up. When you compare the two angles of the driveshaft the output on the transfer case is clearly more aggressive... going into the rear is more of a straight shot. I've seen info that you should try to keep the U-joints at the same angles to cancel out the oscillation that can be generated by them. Obviously this is not a problem with the existing CV joint because of it's design but I was wondering if I should be looking at reversing the direction of the leaf wedge at the bottom to aim the pinion further down. The truck has a Rough Country 4" lift on it, front springs and rear leafs were swapped out, it's not on blocks.
This is the Geometry I'm assuming I should be shooting for...
Sadly the front is also not at the proper angles and I feel that is due to the 4" lift dropping the diff's and the transfer case staying where it is but I'm not positive on that since just lowering the diff's should not change the angle of them. Especially the front... if it was parallel to the transfer case originally it should still be, just lower. The rear however there are wedges under the leaf pack so those could have been twisted 180 from where they should be. I was not the one to install the 4" lift kit, we bought it with that done already.
If I can do nothing and just install it then that's great, but if I need to keep these two angles as close as possible, I would like to know that ahead of time before I waste the effort of installing it and having it break something.
I'm also going to measure the distance because I read on here a few people lifting their truck 4" and the BroncoGraveyard U-joint style shaft was now too short... I may go for the 33-36" length one vs the 30-33 which is listed as what a factory 86 with an auto would use.
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