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First “issues” with Sport


Bracket racer

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We’ve got a storm going on and it’s dumped about 3’ of snow so far. Was out getting gas for the tractor and was bashing through drifts there and back. Learned that “slippery” mode is good for slippery roads but not for going through deep snow. I find either mud or rockcrawl works better because the traction control doesn’t kick in. (Yeah I know, I figured out how to turn it off later, lol)
So;
Drove about 6kms or so in mud mode up to 40-50kmph on snowy roads, hit a plowed road (still snow covered) and went to change to normal and got the “modes are not operational” or however it said it. I watched the dash and floored it and all four tires were still getting power so it was still awd, but, no goat modes by the switch. After 5 minutes of idling while sitting in a parking lot, it started working again?? Perhaps overheated the centre diff and it shut down??

Second was the intermittent wipers started going at the highest intermittent setting and not responding to the switch on the stalk. Shut them off and it worked normal for a bit then it would act up again. Later the wife said the BS has “predictive wipers” so maybe that was it?

(Edit: it’s been 7 1/2 hours since I posted this, just got home)

Third I just noticed that a plastic cover or whatever under the drivers side just in front of the back wheel(gas tank cover or skid plate?) is hanging at the back. Now it’s been stuck/bottomed our 3 times now with the belly dragging all day long on snow drifts. When it was stuck it was going through hard snow banks made by plows so maybe thats what did it, but it shouldn’t of come off because of snow!
I’ll put it in the garage tomorrow and look at it, maybe take a picture.

Anyway, that’s it for now and oh, driving home tonight everything worked perfect so maybe it was nothing. Anyway, I’ll go over it tomorrow.
 
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JerryC

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check the battery connections, there have been reports of them shipping with loose connections. A loose cable could glitch the electronics.
I think mud mode "locks" the center diff so overheating it after a few KM does make sense.

So far we've only had a 2-3 inches on the ground for a day, I left mine in normal and watched the cluster display for power distributions and it stayed almost entirely in FWD. That made sense considering good tires and minimal snow to drive through.

That cover takes a beating off road. Many people that wheeled have reported that.
 

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Thanks for the reply, I’ll check the cables and wires tomorrow but everything is working normal now. I found it was the plastic cover for the gas tank that was hanging down. The plastic stud was still there but the nut that holds the cover up was missing. I got a 8mm nut and a washer and put it back up. As far as the centre diff goes, if it’s locked there should be NO heat, it’s locked up. It’s the engaging/disengaging slipping of the clutch that builds heat so locked up it shouldn’t of got hot. But, who knows...
The wife’s 02 explorer mid truck would act up when off roading if she left it in auto instead of 4x4 high or low. It’s essentially the same thing, drives rear wheels until it slips then the clutch locks up engaging the front axle.
Anyway... seems ok now...
 

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It's still a clutch, locking it means putting strong pressure to "lock" it. It doesn't really lock in the traditional sense. More in the "marketing" sense.
 

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If it’s not “locked” and still slips then it will quickly burn out. Any clutch is meant to disengage the power source from the driven component. Whether it’s a lockup clutch on an a/c compressor or a lock up torque converter. It’s either locked or unlocked, any slippage will cause premature wear. So I’m wondering if it shut off due to heat or some other reason. If the rear end is locked up and you can get it to slip for example, then either 1) it’s worn out or 2) it is only good for X amount of torque or has a certain amount of friction capability and beyond that it will slip. Think of running a 8” clutch behind a 500hp engine, in lower gears and light throttle it’s fine but if you have traction so the tires won’t slip and you apply 4-500lbs of torque, even a new 8” will slip.

Anyway, at this point it’s all moot as it hasn’t done anything since, everything is working great including the intermittent wipers.
 

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So....... headlights are buzzing????
Saw it on another video and now mines doing it. Or it always was and I just noticed it today.
Got a video of it but can’t play it here. Putting it on my YouTube channel in a bit.
(Low range in Nova Scotia)
 

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They all make some noise, but can they get real load and need to be replaced.
Speculation is that there is a cooling fan for the LEDs.
 

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Ahh, cool, thanks. Not worried or anything but it’s good to know. Maybe when it’s time to service it I’ll get them to look at it. If it is a cooling fan, I wonder why it was running when the truck was sitting all night in -28 weather???
Weird.
 

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Speculation is that there is a cooling fan for the LEDs.
I just remembered my father (air weapon technician in the airforce) telling me years ago about the search lights on the front of the sub chasers (forget their name atm) that if they were turned on while the aircraft was sitting on the tarmac it would melt the plexiglass nose cone off due to the heat. Cooling fan might not be that far off...

Edit: I had to look it up, it was the argus, a sub hunter. It was replaced with the current cp-140 aurora.
 

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I just remembered my father (air weapon technician in the airforce) telling me years ago about the search lights on the front of the sub chasers (forget their name atm) that if they were turned on while the aircraft was sitting on the tarmac it would melt the plexiglass nose cone off due to the heat. Cooling fan might not be that far off...
LEDS typically don't have much heat generated in front of the bulb, it's almost all on the back where the electronics are. Once you get over a certain wattage you need a big heatsink , a fan or both.
It's considered a negative for cars as there isn't enough heat to keep ice of the headlight lenses. Some will have heating elements in the lenses, of Bronco Sports do not.
 

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Ah, ok, thanks for that.

Now I can go to bed a little less stupid!😂
 

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Here’s the latest issue, wife ran over a block of snow while turning around in an intersection. Ripped the front right inner fender out!
The good news is, after looking at all the room with the inner fender gone, I think 33’s would fit with enough offset to clear the base of the shock strut.

Crap, the video is gone. Luckily I posted it before my phone crapped it. I’ll get the link.
Edit: we’ll, my i6s finally crapped out. The screen digitized and I lost 90% of everything. So, with my i10 I’ll make a new video because the one I uploaded to my YouTube channel is gone too for some reason.
(YouTube “low range in Nova Scotia “)
 
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Wife wanted to take it to the dealer Monday morning, but it’s snowing here…again…
Good news is, with the
inner fender gone, Im sure I could fit 33’s!🤭🤭
31’s easy! There is a lot of room inside the fender well with the inner fender gone. The ONLY thing in the way is the spring plate on the strut. Offset rims and no problem!
 

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Been gone a while… more damage😂😂
Windshield
4D185FAA-2292-4CB0-BE6B-FFD5C9FA6888.jpeg

Broke the tabs holding the inner fender in when it got ripped out.

868CA707-7B4B-4BB3-8554-87C8158D76D5.jpeg

Tore the bottom skid plate cover almost in two when the wife bottomed out on a rock
F77D1111-E84A-4557-A51B-61470F070D35.jpeg
8B3FA9D7-D6DF-47FB-824C-13E554656F74.jpeg
 

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Wow.. really messed up the picture sequence😂😂
 

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