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Front Splash Guard Install


85_Ranger4x4

December 2013 OTOTM
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
97
Reaction score
79
Points
18
Age
39
Location
SW Iowa
Vehicle Year
2022
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
2.3
Suspension Style
4wd
Original Poster: 85_Ranger4x4

Difficulty: 5 out of 10

Time to install: 2 hours

Disclaimer: The broncocorral.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.

Brief Explanation: How to install the factory Ford front splash guards on a 2021+ Bronco with rock rails by creating a hole in the splash guard for the rock rail to pass through. This is because the rock rails protrude more than an inch into the splash guard. Of note: If you have a steel rear bumper as of right now Ford has no offerings to fit your the rear of car aside from the $450 a pair "Gaterback" ones. And different trims have different fender flares which will affect splash guard fitment. These only fit the standard flare, our car is a 2022 Black Diamond for reference. Right now these are running $40-50 so they are kind of a cheap stopgap if nothing else until something better comes along. I am pretty happy with how ours came out though.

Anyway, be wary as Ford's accessory catalog is very vague on fitment of anything right now.

Case in point, they show the fronts with rock rails and in the description say they will not fit:

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sg1.png


Tools Needed:
- #2 Phillips screwdriver
- Boxcutter
- Good tape (like duct tape)
- Way to cut mudflap (oscillating cutter works awesome)
- Cardboard (not too thick but also not too flimsy
- 15mm ratchet wrench (ideal) or 15mm combination wrench
- Floor jack
- Jackstand

Parts Needed:
- M2DZ16A550AA spash guard kit

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Steps 1: Jack up front wheel of choice (I started with the passenger side so if I screwed it up I wouldn't have to look at it as much) and put the car on the jackstand and remove the wheel.



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Steps 2: Using the 15mm wrench remove two bolts retaining the crash bar behind the wheel. They are pretty tight, once removed the bar will slide right out (on our week old car, sorry random reader in 10 years your results may vary)



Step 3. Keeping the top flat edge pretty close to top of the rock rail, using the boxcutter fit it so the rock rail will pass thru it.



Step 4. Using screwdriver remove the two screw rivets per the included direction. Reinstall the inner one to locate the splash guard and line up the outer hole with the hole in the mudflap. Watch for something obvious but don't take it to heart where the part that wraps around the flare ends up, with the rock rail pushing ahead it skews it. Now duct tape the cardboard to the mudflap.



On that side I had to do more "fitting" because I tried to line up both holes and the part on the flare, on the DS I went off the holes disregarding where the flare part ended up and it just fell together much easier.



Step 5. Using the boxcutter again transfer the hole in the cardboard to the mudflap. I tried on the first one to use a drill to make neat round edges, they didn't work so I did bother on the second one.



Step 6. Insert the clip nut per the included directions onto the rocker panel.



Step 7. Install fender flare per included directions. They shorted me one of the push locking rivets so I reused the screw type temporarily until I found the correct ones. I also passed on drilling holes in my flares for the christmas tree push pins just yet until I see if the aftermarket comes out with something I like better.



Step 8. Reinstall crash bar.



Step 9. Reinstall wheel. Torque wheel to spec and retorque after 20 miles.

Repeat for the other side.

All done!



Then go pat yourself on the back for doing something not only Ford said couldn't be done but that Ford could have easily offered.
 
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