•  

    Click HERE to join our forum and participate in the discussions.

     

np208-205 ??


scotiascrapiron

New member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Hampton S.C.
Vehicle Year
86
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
302 soon to be 393
gonna be putting a 408 in my bronco11. will a np208 stand up to it?? 35" tire's and motor will be pretty hot dont know exactly what gears yet. i've been searching for good info but mostly all ive found is it's the greatest tranfer case ever or i wouldn't piss on it if it was on fire. can get my hands on a 205 but dont really want the added weight.
truck has c6 and will be used for mud bogging
 
Last edited:


brinker88

11/2013 OTOM Winner
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
0
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Williamsport, Pa
Vehicle Year
1993
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
4.0L
I'd ditch it personally. The slip yoke rear shaft and chain driven case is what turns me off for that kind of high hp build. Slap an NP205 in there. They're gear driven cases with fixed yokes front/rear. I would probably upgrade to 1350 yokes and driveshafts while you're at it.
 

scotiascrapiron

New member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Hampton S.C.
Vehicle Year
86
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
302 soon to be 393
are there any other aluminum case boxes that are gear driven that will bolt to the c6 or would the 205 just absolutely be the best way to go
considering the hp and torque
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2001
Messages
0
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Age
62
Location
East-Central Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
1987... sorta
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
'93 4.0
an NP205 IS the greatest Transfer case ever and anyone who says different should be crucified or executed by impalement... the NP208? not so much,

Frankly I am no fan of any T-case with a slip yoke.
The NP208 is NOT positively lubricated.

The NP205 doesn't need to be and if you are into SERIOUSLY off-roading
the 205 can easily be "Twin Sticked"

another likely candidate is Borg Warner 13-56 from a full size bronco

The full size bronco version of the 13-56 has a FIXED rear output.
(The F-series version has a slip yoke)

Personally I believe that I'd rather have my slip yokes built into the driveshaft...
and keep a spare shaft handy.

Intentionally making the T-case housing a disposable wear item just seems stupid to me.


BTW, if you DO go with an NP205, these have a provision for a mount on the "Drop"

I must recommend in the strongest terms that you do fabricate brackets to mount the
drop to the drivers side frame rail.

The NP205 is all IRON and it a heavy bastard... not as heavy as an NP203
(I have two NP203's if anyone here has a major hard-on for one, or for making
a doubler out of one.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
9,057
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
higgins lake mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Vehicle
FORD
Engine Size
BIGGER
an NP205 IS the greatest Transfer case ever and anyone who says different should be crucified or executed by impalement... the NP208? not so much,

Frankly I am no fan of any T-case with a slip yoke.
The NP208 is NOT positively lubricated.

The NP205 doesn't need to be and if you are into SERIOUSLY off-roading
the 205 can easily be "Twin Sticked"

another likely candidate is Borg Warner 13-56 from a full size bronco

The full size bronco version of the 13-56 has a FIXED rear output.
(The F-series version has a slip yoke)

Personally I believe that I'd rather have my slip yokes built into the driveshaft...
and keep a spare shaft handy.

Intentionally making the T-case housing a disposable wear item just seems stupid to me.


BTW, if you DO go with an NP205, these have a provision for a mount on the "Drop"

I must recommend in the strongest terms that you do fabricate brackets to mount the
drop to the drivers side frame rail.

The NP205 is all IRON and it a heavy bastard... not as heavy as an NP203
(I have two NP203's if anyone here has a major hard-on for one, or for making
a doubler out of one.


i totally agree on a 205 being the undisputed heavyweight king.


and in your case of mud racing the best bet. some how...some way.... the 208 holds up like front 10 bolts on some tracks/classes in chevies. i dont have an answer for that.


the dodge and jeep and some ford 208 come with fixed yoke, some specific packaged early 80's 1 ton fords, some short 1/2 tons and all broncos.


the 205 and jeep 208 fits pretty good....if you have a dodge or chevy front axle those cases fit good as well but you have to route the exhaust the other way.




this is a jeep 208, fits real good and can be kept right near the rail line... but jumping kills them....well all of the cases die from that eventually really.




this is a typical 208 install on dangerranger83... its way too low from the rail line for me. but is workable. the 205 will be similar to this just inside the rail a little more. i dont see that as a problem for a mud truck.






this is a current fullsize 208 install on my truck, prior to this i did mod the upper rail again because i had the case in a different position and it was on a ford trans and small block. if you look you can see that the metal has been removed and replaced before on the upper and lower rails, now i just roll the rail out of the way but since my frame has been modded so many times that was not a good way to go so i just trimmed and radiused it a bit. had i had this clocked to this position there would beno rail modifications needed at all..




i cock the powertrain from centerline obviously to facilitate this. but ground clearance is ideal and protecting the t case is easier this way.


this is what my engine looks like compared to a small block.

so theres always some give and take with placement. but the fact is a 208 case will fit in the rails.....with that behemoth engine. so its reasonable to think a small block can accommodate this as well.

 

dangerranger83

New member
Solid Axle Swap
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Apr 26, 2009
Messages
0
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
Lafayette, IN
Vehicle Year
1983
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
5.0 HO carbed with an np435 and np208
Do remember that I also don't have a body lift so mine being down below the rail is going too happen plus it wasn't clocked to fit up between things. Having a body lift will make it easier to fit any transfercase between the rails.

Also as said, you can find np208s with fixed outputs from f150s. I wish I had known that before hand and found that out when I was out at my local junk yard looking for a front drive shaft.

If you need something that will take abuse and don't really need a low 4wd ratio, the np205 is it. Heavy, yes, will it fit better, you bet. Plus me having an np435 as a trans, it would have been the smart thing to have got since it has the granny low first gear that would have made up for the poor low ratio the np205 has.

Also since I'm thinking about it, should you try and box the frame in...with what your planning to do, I would.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
9,057
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
higgins lake mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Vehicle
FORD
Engine Size
BIGGER
with no body lift the jeep case would what i stayed with, just have to spend more money...i only use the f208 because of costs. i have a pile for the cost of one jeep 208.. but i wouldnt do a v8 without at least a 1-1.5 body lift. i am always fawking up transmissions. bodylift helps big there. actually i would do a bodylift on any rbv because it makes maintenance so much easier.

a mud dragger would be a cut to fit situation no matter what generally.


just throwing out the options...but a 205 is a winner for this setup.
 

85_Ranger4x4

December 2013 OTOTM
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
97
Reaction score
79
Points
18
Age
39
Location
SW Iowa
Vehicle Year
2022
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
2.3
Suspension Style
4wd
Bobby, after going through your post and thinking about it I have some Q's...

What changed between say Danger's 208 and yours as far as hanging down goes? Is the Jeep 208 a better choice for that problem?

I am looking at going to an M5OD trans and a fullsize t-case swap behind my existing 302 swap. I am kinda worried about how t-case drop is going to work with my fairly stock suspension, mainly the radius arm crossmember. Most fullsize t-cases I have seen have a fair amount of drop. I don't want it hanging way down out of the bottom of the truck with the front driveshaft going uphill to the diff either.

The 205 sounds nice, but again the orientation of it is a concern. And building the support right by my fuel pump. I don't think the beef isn't really needed, my stock 1350 has been a happy camper for over 2 years now :D
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
9,057
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
higgins lake mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Vehicle
FORD
Engine Size
BIGGER
too late to reply?



use a clocking ring and a 3 in body lift to fit the fullsize t case in the easiest manner. like danger mentioned the lack of body lift forced his location.



i prefer a body lift on these small trucks.
 

dangerranger83

New member
Solid Axle Swap
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Apr 26, 2009
Messages
0
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
Lafayette, IN
Vehicle Year
1983
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
5.0 HO carbed with an np435 and np208
Where can we get a clocking ring from? If I could get one then it would make my trans xmember/drive shaft clearance much better. I do plan on putting an inch or so body lift on mine to help give things a little more clearance so that when i do get to go wheeling, the frame can flex and everything not rub.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 

dangerranger83

New member
Solid Axle Swap
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Apr 26, 2009
Messages
0
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
Lafayette, IN
Vehicle Year
1983
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
5.0 HO carbed with an np435 and np208
Will do.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 

Top