Sloppy steering - steering box?

[MeanMark87]

The '88 BII project keeps moving along and with each new day comes a new task to tackle. This forum's been awesome in helping me with some of the issues so far, so here's another. The steering has almost a quarter turn of slop in it, and as I mentioned in a nother topic I can feel clunks in the steering column when I go over bumps at speed.

When I jacked it up and tore into the front axle, I put in all new brakes, balljoints, tie rod ends, front axle u-joints, and axle seals, so I know it's not the outer tie rod ends. Today I had the wife turn the steering wheel while I observed the steering shaft and all the components underneath. The pitman arm and inner tie rods etc. are all nice and tight and I don't think they're the problem. The steering shaft turns precisely with the wheel, but the slop occurs in the steering gear itself, I'm thinking.

The shaft will turn inside the steering box for a bit before any of that motion is translated into moving the pitman arm. There's a 'dead zone' where you can turn the wheel and it will not do anything to turn the wheels. I'm looking to tighten it all up. Any ideas on possible causes? I am prepared to hear that I need a new steering gear (yuck) but if that's what it takes, then that's what it takes.

 

[Gilbee01]

Follow your gut

I think your first assumption is right that the box needs to be replaced i would even mess with getting a junker one just buy one new. From what your describing with the dead space I don't think tightening will do much good for long.
-g-

 

[Gilbee01]

Wouldn't use a used you one.. (Typo)

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You can try adjusting the worm gear and see how it goes. there is a large nut on a shaft, hold the shaft and loosen the nut then turn the shaft clockwise a little at a time as someone wiggles the steering wheel. You do not want to get the worm too tight you want a little slop. be sure and tighten the nut to check it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAD0ugRQNek

 

[adsm08]

I agree that is sounds like an issue in the gear box.

I also agree that you should attempt adjustment to the box tension before replacing the unit.

I disagree with the statement about a used unit. It is not common for a recirculating gear box to wear out. Leak, but not wear out.

Also, that particular box was used in almost everything for 15 years. 1983-1997 Ranger, 84-90 BII, 91-94 Explorer, and every F-series truck from 83 (just the earliest year I am sure of) up to 1996.

Basically, if it is a Ford and has a twin I-beam front end, you can use the steering box from it.

 

[MeanMark87]

I tried tightening the worm screw a bit to see if it'd help. It tightened things up a bit, but now the steering gear is making a grinding noise when I turn. Probably better to back it off to where it was and just get a new steering gear.

Any tips on that whole process? Do I need any special tools to get the power steering lines off?

 

[adsm08]

If your power steering lines look anything like mine do you will need special tools to remove them.

The list I suggest are

1) Hack saw

2) socket

3) new lines


Once they get so cruddy and nasty it is easier to just cut them off and replace them.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You did adjust it with the engine off correct? How far did you turn the adjuster take it half way back to where it was and see if it still makes the noise. Yea your probably due a new gearbox. Has it been lifted if so is the drag link close to level to the ground if not maybe look into getting a lower pitman arm for the new gearbox?

 

[MeanMark87]

You did adjust it with the engine off correct? How far did you turn the adjuster take it half way back to where it was and see if it still makes the noise. Yea your probably due a new gearbox. Has it been lifted if so is the drag link close to level to the ground if not maybe look into getting a lower pitman arm for the new gearbox?

I backed it off so that it's about halfway back to where it was when I started. We'll see if this still makes the noise. Either way it'd be a temporary fix, I plan to replace the gearbox as soon as I can. Even with the increased tightness in the steering response, it still wasn't what I'd call 'good.' I was still getting a bit of a dead zone and delayed response.

The truck hasn't been lifted, it's just running bigger tires than stock.

Edit: And yes, I did the adjustments with the engine off.

 

[Gilbee01]

He is right about that its not common for the gear to go out but i know from experience that getting a used sometimes will leave you without steering.. Lol. Plus I prefer a no leaking unit. Fir the lines I agree with cut, loosen, replace. There not to expensive .good luck
-g-

 

[Demi_II]

I just swapped the gearbox in mine. Get a friend to help. That sucker is a lot heavier than it looks, and trying to hold it and start the bolts is a PITA. Its on the shelf in most auto parts stores, and they have a core price for the old one. I was able to get mine off (87) with just a flare nut wrench. Im about done with junk yard parts. Im really trying to make this thing reliable and when mine started leaking, it was a full catastrophic failure, and all the power steering fluid was in the driveway one morning. Im just glad it was at the house and not somewhere else.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It is like buying a used clutch you wiil be back sooner than later. It would be a good time to replace the steering coupler also?

 

[MeanMark87]

It is like buying a used clutch you wiil be back sooner than later. It would be a good time to replace the steering coupler also?

I did briefly consider going to the you-pull yard this morning to get a used one as they're only 26 bucks. But, with something like that, I don't want to have to do it any more often than necessary, so I'll probably go with a new one.

Steering coupler replacement wouldn't be a bad idea too I suppose although mine looks to be in pretty dang good shape.

@Demi_II - Yikes that sounds bad. I definitely know that they're heavy....the factory manual suggests using a jack to support the unit so you don't get crushed by it. I'll see if I can wrangle some help.

 

[Tedybear]

I've done this in my BII and a 75' F-250. It's a heavy beast!

Go for replacement lines if at all possible. Trying to remove the lines that are close together? Stands a chance of doing damage to one fitting while trying to loosen the other.

Be sure to use a high quality pitman arm puller. The F250 broke 2 NAPA pullers before it came free. (thank god for lifetime warranty) Have a helper, as this can roll and twist--this is not a part you want smacking you in the head or chest.

S-

 

[MeanMark87]

I've done this in my BII and a 75' F-250. It's a heavy beast!

Go for replacement lines if at all possible. Trying to remove the lines that are close together? Stands a chance of doing damage to one fitting while trying to loosen the other.

Be sure to use a high quality pitman arm puller. The F250 broke 2 NAPA pullers before it came free. (thank god for lifetime warranty) Have a helper, as this can roll and twist--this is not a part you want smacking you in the head or chest.

S-

I've got a puller that I bought when I did the pitman arm on my Town Car....seemed to hold up pretty well. But I'm not putting anything past the B2 - it's already smashed my pickle fork in half among a couple other things.

Good call on the lines though....they're not super pricey and it only makes sense to put new lines in if I'm going to the trouble to put in a new gearbox.

 

[Tedybear]

I've got a puller that I bought when I did the pitman arm on my Town Car....seemed to hold up pretty well. But I'm not putting anything past the B2 - it's already smashed my pickle fork in half among a couple other things.

Good call on the lines though....they're not super pricey and it only makes sense to put new lines in if I'm going to the trouble to put in a new gearbox.

The old saying "In for a penny, in for a pound".

Doing all that work? good way to avoid future headache.

Glad to know the puller held up! Be sure to have everything lined up as per the shop guide on changing that out. Just to ensure everything is nice and centered. (Mine is still off about 15 degrees. LOL. I call it being "unique".)

S-

 

[MeanMark87]

Well, I'm not convinced I've solved the issue....I took the gearbox out and it doesn't seem to be the problem. I can still feel the same clunking looseness and slop as I turn the steering shaft by hand and watch the steering wheel. Plus, and I don't know why I didn't mention this before (or maybe I did), but the wheel/column has planar looseness as well. I.e. I can wiggle the wheel towards and away from the dashboard in addition to the rotational sloppiness. I'm thinking there's some kind of a bearing or bushing that must be responsible inside the column? Any further advice is much appreciated.

I wanna get this thing driving again!