wheel bearings

[FRENCHMan]

Hello everyone,

I will change the wheel bearings on my front and rear EXPLORER 1994.
I found a thread with pictures to the front and the tools necessary.

:icon_confused: By cons I can find nothing for the rear? or do not know where to look

Could you give me assistance to get to find something and tell me the tools I need.


:icon_confused: Do I need a special extractor. to remove my wheel bearings rear.
If need you could post a photo to see if I can find in the garage



Thank you very much for your help I'm really very bored

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[gribly]

I opened up the differential cover and drained all the old fluid. Then, I removed the bolt for the spider shaft - this bolt is usually broken so be prepared to have to extract it. I already had removed my rear brakes as I was replacing drums and shoes, too. I then pushed in on both axle shafts, removed the c-clips (these are inside the differential housing on the very end of the axles), and pulled the axles out. At this point, you'll need to pull the seals, then use a slide hammer to remove the bearings. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Do NOT turn the driveshaft while the spider shaft is out - if your spider gears get out of alignment it can take you some swearing to get them back in place. This is also a good time to toss in a locker if you want one.

 

[FRENCHMan]

I opened up the differential cover and drained all the old fluid. Then, I removed the bolt for the spider shaft - this bolt is usually broken so be prepared to have to extract it. I already had removed my rear brakes as I was replacing drums and shoes, too. I then pushed in on both axle shafts, removed the c-clips (these are inside the differential housing on the very end of the axles), and pulled the axles out. At this point, you'll need to pull the seals, then use a slide hammer to remove the bearings. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Do NOT turn the driveshaft while the spider shaft is out - if your spider gears get out of alignment it can take you some swearing to get them back in place. This is also a good time to toss in a locker if you want one.

open the differential cover and drained all the old fluid to replace the wheel bearings rear, it is an obligation to do this.

this looks very difficult.
HO HO HO :sad::sad:
I would need a thread with pictures
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[TexCaliBII]

It's the only way to replace rear axle bearings as the axle passes through them. And they can be a bear to get out. On mine the left came out fairly easy but the right one I had to grind, CAREFULLY, the bearing race to just before the axle tube metal in a spot to pop the bearing loose and remove it. If you can, checkout the Autozone website as they have drawings and instructions for a lot of repairs and might have this as well. Good luck.

 

[gribly]

It sounds bad, but it really isn't. The reason for opening the diff is the c-clips are in there. To open the diff is just some bolts. You're not disturbing the gear mesh, so don't be scared to crack it open. Use synthetic fluid to fill it!

 

[FRENCHMan]

It's the only way to replace rear axle bearings as the axle passes through them. And they can be a bear to get out. On mine the left came out fairly easy but the right one I had to grind, CAREFULLY, the bearing race to just before the axle tube metal in a spot to pop the bearing loose and remove it. If you can, checkout the Autozone website as they have drawings and instructions for a lot of repairs and might have this as well. Good luck.

It sounds bad, but it really isn't. The reason for opening the diff is the c-clips are in there. To open the diff is just some bolts. You're not disturbing the gear mesh, so don't be scared to crack it open. Use synthetic fluid to fill it!

In searching I found this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214805
I must follow it :icon_confused:
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

In searching I found this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214805
I must follow it :icon_confused:
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

A good write up :icon_thumby:

Richard

 

[FRENCHMan]

i'm really in trouble, I do not feel capable of doing rear bearings, sh"t

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

This is how I feel before EVERY new to me job. Sometimes the hardest thing about a job is starting it. I think once you get into it you will not have any major problems, and if you do, we'll be here to help.
:icon_cheers:

Richard

 

[FRENCHMan]

:icon_surprised:What worries me the most is the movement of trees back if I'm wrong
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

:icon_surprised:the movement of trees back
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

Say what?

Richard

 

[FRENCHMan]

Say what?

Richard

I say that I am afraid to make that mistake:sad:

it says in the thread

"Here's a Slightly fun part; You Need to remove this bolt (9mm head, atleast in my case), Then Slide The Pin out so That You Can access the c-clips. Do not Turn the axles after Removing this, or you could " Spend a lot of time Trying to get it back in! If you spin the axles, It Will get the spider gears out of place, and Could Be a Real Pain to re-align ":icon_surprised:

And I do not understand the tools I need to remove the bearing

I ask a lot I'm sure, but someone could put an arrow on the c-clip

I do not want to bore anybody with all these questions, but here in FRANCE a repair cost for me $ 1250 !!!!!!!!!!!!
they fell on the head these people what are thugs

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Why do you figure that you need to replace the rear axle shaft bearings?

 

[FRENCHMan]

Why do you figure that you need to replace the rear axle shaft bearings?

is when the truck passed the inspection here in France:icon_confused:
Now I'd like to know a way to find sil there really needs to replace

Thank you very much

Edit
can you give me the torque for tightening the bearings rear

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

There is no torque spec for the rear axle shaft bearings. They get pressed into the axle housing and then axle shaft slides into the housing and rides on the bearings.

 

[FRENCHMan]

There is no torque spec for the rear axle shaft bearings. They get pressed into the axle housing and then axle shaft slides into the housing and rides on the bearings.

Thank you very much

can you give me the torque for tightening the bearings front[/COLOR]

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

"I ask a lot I'm sure, but someone could put an arrow on the c-clip"

I can't put an arrow, a description will have to work. If you look at the end of the shaft, the end thats in the differential, you will see the c-clip. It is about 3mm thick and 10mm wide and shaped like a horse shoe. If you push on the end of the shaft inwards to the center, it will reveal the c-clip, enough that you can pull it out with needle nose pliers or a magnet.

Richard

Edit;
I just read a thread today or maybe yesterday on front bearing install. A search will find it. From what I remember for front bearings;
Tighten inner lock nut with pin facing out to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel. Back off and tighten to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel [ I'm not sure why do it twice but that was how it was written]. Back off again and tighten to 16 in/lbs, THAT'S INCH POUNDS. Put on washer with holes, if it doesn't fit, flip over and try again. Tighten outer lock nut to 220 - 250 ft/lbs which is more than ford calls for but more than one knowledgeable person has recommended this higher torque.

 

[FRENCHMan]

"I ask a lot I'm sure, but someone could put an arrow on the c-clip"

I can't put an arrow, a description will have to work. If you look at the end of the shaft, the end thats in the differential, you will see the c-clip. It is about 3mm thick and 10mm wide and shaped like a horse shoe. If you push on the end of the shaft inwards to the center, it will reveal the c-clip, enough that you can pull it out with needle nose pliers or a magnet.

Richard

Edit;
I just read a thread today or maybe yesterday on front bearing install. A search will find it. From what I remember for front bearings;
Tighten inner lock nut with pin facing out to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel. Back off and tighten to 35 ft/lbs while spinning wheel [ I'm not sure why do it twice but that was how it was written]. Back off again and tighten to 16 in/lbs, THAT'S INCH POUNDS. Put on washer with holes, if it doesn't fit, flip over and try again. Tighten outer lock nut to 220 - 250 ft/lbs which is more than ford calls for but more than one knowledgeable person has recommended this higher torque.

IN looking I found this.

Initially I tightened the bearings to 20 FOOT pounds while I rotated the rotor... then I backed it off, and tightened it to 20 INCH pounds

This means that I must make a tightening in two to 20 lb
for a total 40 .lb, this is correct ??? or 35 .lb for a total 70 .lb
Can you say Richard please.
I am really sorry for not understanding.
But I, would not make a mistake:icon_confused::icon_confused:

:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[FRENCHMan]

:icon_confused::icon_confused: I wonder.
if indeed the wheel bearings rear are dead ?
inspection technique that me said the front are dead
just the right was dead. outer and inner.
the left are good, replace all bearings both sides anyway

Could you tell me how to do a test to see if they are really dead the rear.
because when I move the wheel everything looks normal.
no games and no suspicious noise


Else
I do not see in the tech library a thread.

Making the correct replacement TIE ROD ENDS.
You have to give me assistance to do this very well

Thank you very much
:icon_cheers::icon_cheers::icon_cheers:

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

The rear axle will have a bit of in and out movement, that is normal of any C-clip style rear axle. It should not have ANY up and down play. if it does the bearing is no good and has more than likely damaged the the axle shaft itself.