Recent content by footee

Yep, make a mess and a stink and just burn that rubber bushing out of there. Probably your best bet.

+1 on not doing a body lift over 2"s. I think the 4" suspension lift will clear the 33s just fine by itself, even with a little body "massaging". No body lift!

Have fun getting that bolt out. It runs through a sleeve in the bushing and I'm sure that's what it's rusted to so that sleeve is just turning inside the bushing. I went through the same mess on a ranger, just ended up cuttin the bolt out with a grinder or something. Good luck to ya!

Wow! Lucky you found that now instead of running down the highway or something. Should be a pretty easy fix. I'd imagine you could find some parts on here pretty easy, or just put that thing up in the air!

I haven't had any real problems out of my t-case's after some hard wheelin. My wheelin' rig has a 5-speed so I don't know how the auto will hold up with the 35s and rough stuff. I had a Ranger on 33s with an auto but I mainly drove that to work. Did alright but I always ran it in drive instead...

I think they're really about the same, just one has the elec motor, one doesn't. The only real weak link I know of is in that elec motor. The one in my second X didn't work. I just replaced it with another motor last night, took like 5 mins to do. Just search the classifieds on here for man...

I'd say the front shaft will be fine, as long as it mates to the case. There is a lot of room in the slip yoke. My X with 6"s of lift uses a stock front shaft with no problems. If the yoke at the case doesn't match up to the shaft, you could probably split the case and transplant the shaft from...

I like your thinking! Lol. As far as I know, it'll bolt right up, just gotta run all the linkage and whatnot. I don't know if the lights on the dash will light up when you lock it in though. I'm not real sure how to work that up. But, hell, if ya gotta stick down there, you should know if you're...

+1 That box is needed. When you push your 4X4 button, it sends a signal to that box which in turn sends a signal to your transfer case. Good luck. Let us know if you have any more problems. I just went through a whole fiasco with getting my case to work. Ended up changing the shift motor on the...

I'd say there could be a kink in your filler neck. Doesn't hafta be much, just enough to not let the fuel flow into the tank as fast as it's getting pumped. I had the same problem on an old truck of mine that was brand new, I just pulled the nozzle out a little bit instead of shoving it all the...

I did a little investigating into this and it appears to me that whenever you choose your make/year/model truck, it will give you a wholesale/closeout price. They're just not all neatly put together in one list like what clem is getting. So, everyone can get the same good prices, just go to the...

I have a Hemi when I need to haul stuff so I'm not worried if they'll stand up to a load or not. All I want is enough lift to clear no more than 35s but prolly just 33s. Depends if I keep my Sport or not. The guy that's supposed to be buying it is lolly-gagging around and not returning my...

My thought on using Ranger springs is that the rear end of the Ranger is much lighter than that of the Explorer so the lift amount wouldn't be the same. I don't know if they're the same springs or not. (As in length and width.) See previous post. How much longer are the Ranger springs than the...

From what I just read on the site, they don't offer any springs at all for the Explorer. That's probably what you were implying. How long ago did you get your kit? How much did you pay for it? Is there any difference between the leaves and that of the Ranger or BII? I see now that they are...

Yeah, but I want to keep the axle above the spring pack for the added stability and torque twist reduction. Can you buy that setup seperately from the complete lift kit? Where can I find it?