Well i have the same pressure while crusing 2-3k rpms as the 10w30 but know i have roughly 10psi at idel compared to less than 3 before. Engine doesn't act any different than before doesn't tick never did it before though.
Yah i would love to have any psi at idel.
Already have a mechanical gauge. And have no lift tick, so i just have huge holes in the block allow little pressure to build then.
It drop like a rock once warm and idling but, get the rpms to 1.5 and ive got 12psi. In the mornings i get 40psi. This is with the 10w40. Could the pump be going?
Well see i dont leak a drop nor do i burn any. It either the passages have been painted which i highly doubt. My oil pump sucks, i highly doubt, or my gauge is f*****d. On cold start my oil is 40-45psi but after a 13 mile drive its down to what i said.
Cant ask the rebuilder since it was done 4 years ago but ive only put 10000 miles on her. Also the rebuilder went out of business for apparent reasons. Shity work
It may be 7-10 psi its hard to tell. Some time it sits at almost 0 while in drive siting at a light.
84 2.8 b2
Once I've driven for a few minutes my oil pressure drops to like 5-7 psi while Idling
The engine was rebuilt a less than 10,000 miles ago and has been like this since I got it...
Is this a problem, I don't think the rebuilder did a true rebuild.
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If their is no ecm im assuming your 5.0 is carbed...
Only mordern ecm take control over almost all functions in the truck, there are also independent gem and sjb that control body function
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mine did this even when my engine was warmed up along time ago, my mechanic disconnected something and now it idles high on start till i tap the gas and it never idles high again until it cools down on the next start up.
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