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There is a way to test the module on the car; I don't have it nearby, but a google may help - try pinto or Mustang II or other 70's Fords - all use the same module if they call it DuraSpark II (I think) If it only fails when additional loads are placed on the circuit, look for a short or...

The pressure drops as the oil get warm, but 5 to 7 is low. The gauge may be off is my first guess because an oil pump that works would give an adequate amount of oil for this engine. Also note that the volume of oil is more important than the pressure. You might ask the rebuilder about this.

The harness is very doubtful; I've worked on a few of these and only once did I have to splice in a wire - never a whole harness. First, follow the advice on pulling codes; then tell us what codes you have. ALSO: I recommend a repair manual (like Haynes) on any car as a must to begin with.

I would check to see what's happening with your TFI. I've had two fail in over 100,000 miles. Very annoying, so I carry a spare. Maybe excess heat or a wiring problem. On the power side of things, you will need a bigger engine. Check the price of a manifold, carb, duraSpark and compare that to...

84 Bronco - That lack of power may be in the tuning. Check the spark timing and also the carburetor. Maybe even a vacuum leak. I don't think it is internal in the engine - unless (and I doubt it) the cam isn't installed correctly.

Part of the air injection for the catalytic converter. If you must pass smog, you need it - otherwise it is just taking space as you describe it. It will not affect the performance of the engine if not there.

I'm not the biggest fan of shortcuts BUT that housing down there is a real pain and you can't buy a new rear one - the one with the small hose. I had one with stripped threads so be very careful to use good, clean bolts. Anyway; if the leak isn't too bad, Bars-Leak would stop it without digging...

Don't over-do the sealer on any item; the object is to help the gasket, not replace the gasket. The special fill process is because customers, with the thermostat mounted low, don't re-check the coolant after they leave the dealer. If you are doing it yourself, just fill the regular way, drive...

Obviously, it needs lots of work, but the blue smoke may be serious as is the transmission problem. I don't know where you want to start, but check the costs of the transmission, clutch,etc and all the parts you may need to get the smog right - if you need smog inspections where you live...

You don't need the solenoids; they are controlled by the computer. Someone just posted how to hook up the EGR without the computer; try and find that. There is a "tree" behind the carb that should give you auto trans and other vac sources. AND save those solenoids and post them for sale...

If you have to pass a tailpipe sniffer test; I think you have a problem. If they just look at parts, you can fake it. And it does have an EGR right in front of the carb, the other items mentioned are on the engine too, but none will work with the DuraSpark conversion. Ask what you need and why...

Sort of off topic, but I just came across this: "the 8,500-lb. Excursion ... Capable of just 14-16 miles per gallon in city driving," Wow! - I hope your math is off with 13mpg. Anyway, if you find out what the deal is, please let us know, even if from NZ.

I'm a bit baffled. I get about 19 to 20 on my Ranger with California smog. It isn't gearing if it doesn't over-rev. Maybe a slipping auto trans? Gas leak? That's all I can think of. As for shipping it in a container, check to see the law on that. I know you have to prove ownership of any...

The only things that I can think of are gears or a very badly running engine. Does it have factory smog - meaning the computer? You may want to look into the cost of shipping a vehicle to NZ and compare that to the price of a vehicle down there.

Any chemical stop leak is temporary, but if it works for nickoroniper, go ahead and try it. Replacing the seal is time consuming, but doable with the right tools. Ford Rotunda kits are available on ebay and elsewhere and the kits have tools to easily remove and replace the front seal in the...

"doesn't the (+) positive wire for the coil, as well as the duraspark box need to be hot in both start and run? " Yes - sounds like you need to find the wire that is live during start; try looking at a wiring diagram to make it easier. Many people run the coil with the full 12v and they say...

Some things are cut out during start so that you can get full power to the starter - and a full 12 volts to the coil. During the run mode, you may have one wire that is producing 9v - that would be the + to the coil when running.

Re-check the cables and don't overlook grounding. The new starter suggests it's something electrical.

" My question is do I find another motor, rebuild this one or say to heck with it and go the 4.0 route? Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. " Well, the bigger motor is nice. I have rebuilt two 2.8's and they can get expensive; the parts just aren't cheap if you need any, even the gaskets are...

Not taking any side here, but I've worked on a few engines - and I used to be a licensed mechanic - and don't remember seeing oil coming out of an exhaust pipe. I have seen "oily residue" but the likelihood of oil making it to the tail pipe is slim. Try putting drops of oil on the outside of a...