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all that welding/strengthening of the front, all to still have an aluminum 3rd member? it is pretty though

^^wrong, you are so wrong that the opposite is literally true seen many places such as here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing just because performance can be increased by increasing overall advance, doesn't mean that something with "advance" in the title automatically increases...

I say, leave it un-hooked, the vacuum advance is for fuel economy

no, that pic is just of the un-bolted fender sitting on top of a 35" tire. just to illustrate that the arch is bigger than the tire. it would only "eat the fender" if I cut the quarter/set the arch too low. that picture was not at full-stuff imagine doing exactly what you already did, but...

I wasn't worried about body lines, I want a nice factory looking lip going around the fender arch. the front fenders have a larger opening than the rears, and by using the arches from it, I will be able to clear my tires without molesting the arch lip. Here is a non-modified front fender...

ha-ha. I've called mine the b2-bomber for years too. it's even my screename on many other forums. i'm even stretching the rear axle back too. I am planning on using the sheet metal from front fenders to make the rear arches look more factory

I agree 100% from what I read ford can't even build one... :icon_rofl:

let me just remind everyone ^^the same can be said for a gas engine

here:

please consider the gm tbi swap, it uses a duraspark distributor, but doesn't need the duraspark module. and also gives you electronically controlled timing curves. or you can bypass the timing control and run the duraspark distributor with the duraspark module with its own mechanically...

TWISTER is right, we did do that, and it was easy: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8-chevy-tbi-swap.shtml i think someone at some point tried swapping dash harnesses or something to a newer model because this just doesn't add up :icon_confused: i do agree that you should ditch...

the 2.9 ecm had a different connector plug than the 2.8L TFI ecm something doesn't add up here. you are certain that your truck is a 1985? and not a newer truck with a carbureted engine swapped in? because the 1985 didn't have a fuel "pump circuit", it had a mechanical fuel pump

by "87 ecm in 85" do you mean it is allegedly a 1987 ecm?

define "stability" are you worried about tipping? wanting more stability in the front-end at speed?

this statement had me curious, the entire point of vaccum advance is to improve driveability, and mileage. are you saying that you know more than the engineers who designed the system?

pete is right, #1 is wherever the rotor is pointing when the #1 piston is in the correct firing position. it really could be any one of the 6 posts on the cap, depending on where the rotor ended up when you dropped the distributor into the engine.

is the like the old farm go-karts with bench seat bolted straight to the frame with a lone steering wheel sticking up?

i disagree, all removing the vacuum line will do is tell the FPR you are at WOT, which shuts off the return line to prevent a sudden drop in pressure. as the batch-fired 2.9l ecm fires each batch of injectors once per revolution. totaling at idle 6 injector pulses per rev. at 1,000rpm, that...

they do get noisier as a rule, when checking pressures don't just hook onto it at idle, make sure it you check it under load, as well at higher rpm the pump can do 99psi and 40gph wide open, the 2.9 runs 35-40psi rail pressures, so a pump operating at diminished capacity could easily feed...

The ebay one was like 1/8" too small, and left a vacuum leak on the IAC channel, we fixed it, but the white plastic kept pulling bolt threads out and not sealing properly. so we scrapped it. If i worded this wrong, to give the wrong idea. I am sorry we just used the TBI injection system from...