89 BII vavle train issue

[HBTANK]

89 BII 2.9 efi 4wd A4LD

My B2 has 300k miles on it and I recently had to swap out the original 2.9.
I didn't see my truck again for 7 mounths. The shop said I was getting a new jasper rebuilt short block and reused all my other components.when I finally got it back the vavels chattered like a power stroke at start up and the timeing was so far off we couldent get the light to read it. We just pulled it apart and adjusted lifters and retimed it. The chatter at start up stopped but,once you get it warm and under load driveing it it gos back to chattering like my dads f350 and loses a lot of power. I'm not sure where to go next to solve this chatter issue any insight would be great. Also I'm confident the motor isn't new at all,to give you an idea of the people I dealt with, they used the old spark plugs from the blown engine vrs putting a new set in the "new" engine.

 

[RonD]

I just posted this in another thread so fresh in my mind

Additionally, oiling problems were common, and added to the poor reputation of the North American 2.9. Many poorly maintained or high mileage engines exhibit serious valve train noise. This problem is due to a number of design faults. Valve train oil pressure was entirely dependent upon a supply fed through the two center cam bearings. Even slight bearing wear could cause complete loss of oil pressure to the hydraulic valve lifters, rocker shaft, and rockers. Excessive internal "bleeding" through the half-moon camshaft thrust plate also contributed to this, though this can be remedied by reinstalling the thrust plate in an upside-down position. This condition is sometimes mistaken for ticking fuel injectors. This condition isn't a cause for alarm unless it does it very loudly or after long freeway trips. If it does have the oil pressure checked, it could be low.

It is from here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.html

Since you were suppose to get a new short block and that would include new cam bearings I find it odd you would have this issue right off the bat, it is a high mile issue or a worn oil pump issue.

Can you test the oil pressure at different RPMs?

Valve train noise at higher rpm could mean oil pressure is dropping, if this is the case then lifters are loosing pressure and not opening the valves all the way so power drops off.

 

[Shran]

^ what he said.

Are you sure they did anything to your engine besides pulling the valve covers and messing with stuff? Does the block itself look clean/freshly painted/ or anything else to indicate that it is actually a rebuilt block?

If not, hope you didn't pay much or anything, if so you might have to take a trip to small claims court.

 

[HBTANK]

I have the factory block and heads on the floor in the shop I thought it would be cool to keep the numbers matching stuff since we bought the truck new off the show room floor. So I know they at least swapped a diff block and heads. The pics are me and my brothers trying to figure out what they did/didn't do.i believe you all are right about the OP. I think they just swapped in a used short block vrs a new/rebuilt one. I think I may try to run a good OP gauge and see if it drops when the chattering starts thus far I'm into the whole thing about $1400

 

[RonD]

Well then this will probably hurt

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142791

, joking, but it does look like it was a good buy


Is the oil pump new?
Could it be the wrong pickup tube and screen, so at higher RPM the oil level in the pan is dropping below the pickup screen level so you are losing prime.
Or oil is not draining back in fast enough.

 

[Shran]

It would not surprise me, assuming they installed used heads, if the drain passages in the heads are clogged with sludge and carbon.

I'd also wonder about the pickup tube gasket/o-ring/whatever. Been a while since I had a 2.9 apart so I don't remember what exactly is there but it would make sense that this is leaking and starving for oil at higher RPMs.

 

[Gilbee01]

I know with the jasper engine they usually don't come with a new oil pump.. My suggestion it to get one installed or install one as both a solution and good idea. My 2.9 has a rattle because of he oil pump . I will be replacing that soon if I have to.


-gil-

 

[HBTANK]

Thanks for all the info..after doing the research on oil pump replacement and looking at the info on swaping out the 2.9 for something better. At the point I pull this bitch out to fix the oil pump I'm not putting it back in.

 

[Shran]

Since you already have a crap ton of money wrapped up in it, I'd see if you can get it fixed easily. Why not, the 2.9 is a good engine, just rock it until it blows up.

 

[RonD]

Thanks for all the info..after doing the research on oil pump replacement and looking at the info on swaping out the 2.9 for something better. At the point I pull this bitch out to fix the oil pump I'm not putting it back in.

I would check the oil level when cold, then go for a drive on the freeway.
Pull off, turn off engine and check oil level again.

Then wait a few minutes and check it again, see if its draining back too slowly.
You can clean out the drains by just removing valve covers.

You can also run a little higher oil level, not sure what the upper limit is but there is usually a 1/2"=1" above the high mark on the dip stick.
To see if pickup tube and screen are the issue.

And the other thing is.........is the right dipstick in there?
Or the right dipstick tube.
You could be running less oil than you should if either is incorrect.
Best thing is to drain the oil and put in the specified amount for that engine/pan and see where it sits on that dipstick.

 

[VF Gunrunners]

could just be worn out in the top end after cam seals go the lifters and shit starve for oil and wear

300,000 miles on heads with a new block definitely rebuild the heads or get a good used set just my 2 cents could be totally wrong

 

[VF Gunrunners]

and the lifters are not adjustable by the way you have to set them by what the book says but are not adjustable they are self adjusting