Clutch Gone??

[94rangerxlt]

I"m considering buying a Bronco II.
But the guy says the clutch has gone on it.
Said he pressed it in and it "felt like the clutch cable snapped"
and now he can't shift because the clutch isn't functioning.
Also, shows it as a '90 on the truck but all the papers say '89.
2.9L - Manual: Trans, T-Case, and Hubs.


This is the Bronco
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/car/710686918.html

Any idea what the problem might be or is it still too vague?

 

[MAKG]

I would NEVER pay more than US$500 for a truck that can't be driven.

The problem at hand is blown HYDRAULICS. Take this guy's statements with a wheelbarrow of salt; he clearly doesn't have a clue. Honda Accords have clutch cables. Ford trucks don't.

Since you can't drive it, you don't know what other problems it might have. Like most of the 1989 2.9L manual transmissions are broken due to a design flaw. The hallmark is whining in every gear but 4th (and sometimes, banging in neutral). And you can't trust the seller's statements.

 

[rboyer]

I agree with MAKG. The asking price of 700 seems a little steep for something that doesn't run. From those pictures you cannot really tell if anything is rusted out on it either. If it's not a rust bucket I would offer him 400 to be safe and settle on no more than 500 when he tries to talk you up. I just paid 450 for a car with a bad transmission which would book in at 2200 once the transmission is replaced. Why did I buy it in non running condition? 450 is the flat-rate scrap price for an import vehicle in my area. Once you go over scrap price every dollar over could be considered a loss if you decide to junk the vehicle.

 

[94rangerxlt]

I checked it out and it's really clean all around, little rust on rear passenger fender and that's it. Best BII I've seen around here and for the price too. Also, he had it running and it runs well. So now factoring in the cost to fix the transmission... What is all involved in fixing the hyraulics issue, changing the slave cylinder, removing the tranny, etc...? I'll keep looking and searching but any knowledge or links would be awesome.

 

[grnrngr]

Gotta go with the other guys here...if it doesn't run, it better be in excellent condition, with lots of accessories for that price. However, if you want it, and decide to do it, pulling the trans is about a 2-3 hr job. Putting it back in is another 3+ hrs, but it's pretty easy...drop the skid plate and crossmember while supporting the trans, pull the starter and drivelines, unbolt the y-pipe, pull the x-fer case off, pull the trans out, pull the four bolts inside the bellhousing to get the slave out, it fits in a recessed area in the backside of the bellhousing against the trans case. Sounds easy, huh? hahahahaha... it is easy the second time..the first time is usually a bit more difficult, especially the y-pipe bolts. The hydraulic system is pretty simple, a master cylinder with reservoir, a line that runs to the quick connect, and an internal slave cylinder. Unhooking the quick connect can be difficult if it hasn't been done in a long time, slide the plastic ring in, then push the line in a little before trying to pull it out, some vigorous jiggling usually helps. New slaves run about $100, clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing runs another $150-$200, you should check it when you get the trans off. Was there fluid in the reservoir? If the pedal is on the floor, it's not holding pressure. Could be an internal leak in the master cylinder or there should be a puddle under where it leaks out of the system. FWIW, I don't think the slave can have an internal leak because of the way it's made. Or...it could have some actual broken parts...