LP Dana 44 Flange/ujoint ?'s

[BronKitis]

Hey all! So, I installed a LP 44 up front (sas w/leaves :icon_hornsup and I am trying to come up with a front shaft configuration. So, I know that my factory U-Joints are 1310's and the 44's got 1330's. I , of course, am running into slight DS angle problems along with the fact I have shallow pockets...

SO! I am going to use the factory slip yoke portion of the driveshaft and somehow convert the other end to work with the big 44. My thoughts were to use a double carden style off a full size bronco rear shaft. Most of them have an 8.8. This would require changing the yoke to a flange style. Is this possible using junkyard gems? Will the Double Carden give me the higher angle I am seeking or should I try and find something else? :icon_confused:

All oppinions are welcome and appreciated! Thanks

 

[brinker88]

Why don't you set the proper pinion angle instead of trying to "make something work?"

 

[BronKitis]

2 Degree shims, axle sits approx. 6" further forward than the factory one. Flat streets shouldn't be an issue, but that's not what she's getting built for. I'm worried about the flex. There's only so much I can do with the low pinion.

 

[Ford78]

i got a driveshaft from my buddy who said it was from a 79 bronco. i just had to cut it down and get a convesion u joint for it. This worked for my setup as i also used leafs for my sas, but i used a high pinion dana 44. You may have to cut and turn your axle or just go and get a high pinion 44.

 

[Ford78]

Also any pics of the ranger?

 

[BronKitis]

Thought I was subscribed to thread, but I guess I wasn't!

Man, as nice as it would be to spin that puppy around, I have been patiently waiting to go wheeling for over a year! I am SOOOO close! I swear I am going to come up with SOMETHING to make it work as it sits. I just know I can. It may not be pretty, but like most ugly woman, it will work like a water buffalo in China. Square stock, old drive shaft, Tom Woods SuperFlex joints and a Forkspring from a small dirtbike (CR80?) and I think I'll be in business. :icon_welder:

I would LOVE to post pics of my rides, but I am limited to just my phone mainly because I don't really need a computer with this beast! Can you upload photos via cellular telephony device?

 

[Destroyer000]

ive got a lp d44 under my rig and iam using the stock drive shaft. has a dual cardon on the tcase end its a factory 95 ranger shaft.. maybe swap that in? with a new tcase or so to get the flange you need

 

[holyford86]

ive got a lp d44 under my rig and iam using the stock drive shaft. has a dual cardon on the tcase end its a factory 95 ranger shaft.. maybe swap that in? with a new tcase or so to get the flange you need

arent you using a d30 flange on that 44 though?

 

[Destroyer000]

arent you using a d30 flange on that 44 though?

dana 30 same part number as a dana 44 flange

 

[BronKitis]

dana 30 same part number as a dana 44 flange

Is that so? Dana 30 like "out of a Jeep" Dana 30? Is that so you can run the 1310 U-Joint's at both ends? That'd be a good idea being that Tom Woods doesn't offer their superflex joints in a 1330!

 

[BronKitis]

ive got a lp d44 under my rig and iam using the stock drive shaft. has a dual cardon on the tcase end its a factory 95 ranger shaft.. maybe swap that in? with a new tcase or so to get the flange you need

I've got the elec. t-case now. If I were to use one out of a later model ranger/explorer, would the rear flange be the same as I have now? Would they at least be interchangable? Also, how popular were the manual 1354's?

 

[PlumCrazy]

If you run a fixed yoke t case you should be able to run a stock double cardon Ranger/Explorer front shaft. I am running a LP 44 with my factory shaft on my 95....well I should say I was running a factory shaft before I extended it for the doubler. Either way the stock Ranger joint is a perfect fit into the 44 yoke.

Look for a BW1354 t case from a GenIII Ranger or any non CV joint Explorer, or a BW1350 with fixed yoke from a "High Rider"

-PlumCrazy

 

[Shran]

I've got the elec. t-case now. If I were to use one out of a later model ranger/explorer, would the rear flange be the same as I have now? Would they at least be interchangable? Also, how popular were the manual 1354's?

I am guessing that the flange is NOT the same, earlier stuff (in my experience) has the smaller flange. I believe you can take the small flange off your t-case and swap it into the later t-case to keep your rear driveline.

Manual 1354's are out there, just a little harder to find. Check around your local junkyard, there is probably one there.

For your original question - I also just extended the factory driveline about 2" when I had an EB D44 and 1350 t-case in my truck. I had u-joint binding issues so I had to grind between the ears on the shaft. Not a good solution but it somewhat worked. You likely won't find a good fix for your situation unless you have a custom shaft with two CV joints built (big $$$.)

The best solution is to put a high pinion axle in the truck. LP housings were fine in a factory height, non-offroad use vehicle but they are dumb in a lifted vehicle. My front shaft got hung up on everything so I swapped it out.

Look for a 78-79 F250 D44 housing. They are leaf sprung AND high pinion. Probably can find one cheaper than having a driveline built since they are not terribly desirable.

 

[BronKitis]

Shran- Axles came out of a 78' F-250. I thought that it would have been a HP, but I was apparently wrong. Got the price of both the axles way down because of it though ($400 for both) Figured I could make it work.

Plum- Yeah, my T-case is the slip yoke style out in front. Maybe before I build a front shaft, I'll swap it out.

If I can't find a manual 1354, will it just be a "plug and play" swap with my existing wires, etc?

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[PlumCrazy]

Meh. I have had no issues with my LP. I just think about the path I take before I bust ass into a obstacle that may destroy a shaft.

-PlumCrazy