Tips for rear end rebuild.

[vwa1]

This is a pretty good writeup on general differential setup.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup

Pay special attention to the pinion depth setup and what it says about the numbers etched on the nose of the pinion gear. The pinion is the hardest part to get right, as any adjustment means removing and reinstalling the pinion bearing to get to the shims. Paying attention to those numbers (when they are present) usually allows me to be able to set the pinion depth correctly the first time.

The carrier side shims are time consuming, but only entail removing and replacing the carrier and not re-pressing bearings off and on. So not a big deal, just time consuming and it gets heavy after moving it in and out a few dozen times.

Don't throw away your old shims, and before you start get a caliper and a sharpie and measure all of the shims you have. Mark the measurement on the shims. This will help you when it comes down to the fine adjustments, as you can easily grab the next size thicker or thinner shim.

I do this fairly often and it still takes around 4-6 hours for most of them. This is why most of us were warning you to get an 8.8, but hey, you would have had to go through all this to install a locker in an 8.8 too. Also, most ring gear bolts are left handed threads, so don't let that trick you.

 

[Demi_II]

Yeah Im pretty bummed I didnt just pull the trigger on the 8.8. Okay Im gonna go mic all my shims tomorrow and pick up the new axle Saturday. I made a dummy pinion bearing by grinding out the ID so I could slide in on and take it off until I find the right spacing and then press the new bearing on. Guys I really cant thank you enough for all the help. This was something I was terrified to do on my own, but I really wanted to learn how. Ill take pictures of the install as I go so you guys can point out anything I might be doing doing the wrong way. Thanks again, and Ill update as I go.

 

[Demi_II]

I think I got this rascal together now! Took me a while to get the pattern but i think its pretty close now.

It was not easy but a learned a lot. I ran into problems with setting the pinion preload just from inexperience. I ruined two crush sleeves because I over tightened. I didnt realize how little of turn was required once you get to abut 4 inch pounds to get to like 25. So I had to do that mess three times. The true track uses a snap ring to hold the diff cap in place. My snap ring pliers suck so I couldnt get it in to save my life. What ended up working was compressing it in a wooden vice and using .032" safety wire to keep it compressed, sliding it in and cutting the wire. Worked like a champ.

All thats left now is to bleed the brakes and take if for a test run, I feel like the carrier preload is a little low. I can pull the diff out with just a tug. I used all the shims in the kit, but I still feel like it needs to be a little tighter. I have more shims coming. I will pop in a .010 on each side and I think it will be pretty snug.

 

[simpler=better]

Glad to hear it worked out for you

 

[brinker88]

Pinion is WAY too deep. You need to redo it. There is root contact present. Decrease pinion shim and reset backlash.

 

[Demi_II]

Pinion is WAY too deep. You need to redo it. There is root contact present. Decrease pinion shim and reset backlash.

The pictures make it look like its riding on the bottom of the teeth but in person its dead center, and I only have a .007 shim on there. Its the smallest shim I have.

 

[Demi_II]

Test ride complete! Got it up to 70 and had no noise! I dont know that it wont start later but for now Im cautiously optimistic! Guys thank you so much for the help, I learned a lot and couldnt have done it with out your help.