Toyo Koygo Won't Shift into 1st or 2nd - HELP!!

[my77stang]

Hey guys,

I just swapped a Toyo 5 speed into a 1990 Bronco II after the M5R1 killed an input shaft. After custom making a driveshaft, a tranny mount / crossmember adapter, and cutting the floor so the shifter could be installed I finally go to test drive this thing.

Well, I back out of the driveway and find out that it will not shift into 1st or 2nd gear. It feels like it is moving over to the left far enough, but it will not go up or down, and doesn't even feel like it could want to even think about going up or down. I started in 3rd gear and once it got rolling down the road and up to speed everything sounded fine, it shifts into 4th like butter, and goes into 5th just as easy. Reverse is smooth as well - but 1 and 2 will NOT go.

Any advice before I pull the bottom cover would be greatly appreciated, this thing is past pissing me off.

UPDATED WITH FIX!!!!!!


turns out one of the 4 bolts that holds the shifter into the top of the trans was too long and when tightened it was pushing against the linkage inside the trans. the bolt hole in question would be the front drivers side hole. i added a couple washers under the head of the bolt and now it shifts perfectly.

 

[MAKG]

Are you sure that transmission has the correct stick.

FYI, a TK transmission is a very substantial downgrade from what you are replacing. M5ODs generally only go out from abuse or neglect. Generally the latter (years-long leaks leading to oil starvation).

 

[my77stang]

Thanks for the quick reply.

I'm sure the stick is correct for the trans, I pulled them together from my buddys ranger which he had parked for the past few years. We towed it here and I never bothered to make sure it went into every gear because it was fine before he parked it.

I'm not too worried about the "downgrade", as this is a vehicle I obtained in trade for labor working on someone else's vehicle. I paid 100.00 for my buddies junk ranger and got 4 aluminum wheels, door panels, windshield, fuel pump, engine, transmission, and misc do-hickeys plus I've already sold the bedliner and a few trim pieces for a little cash. All-in-all I'd say I got a great deal, I just need to get this tranny up and going.

Is there any way I could have improperly installed the stick? All I saw was the ball that connected the stick to the tranny and a spring loaded pin thingy next to it. Btw, where is the fill plug on this thing? The drain plug is obvious, and I just poured the fluid in where the stick mounts because none of the plugs on the side looked right so I didn.t wanna pull any of them out.

 

[Jorley]

There are 2 plugs on the side. One is higher than the other. The upper one is to fill and the lower one the fluid should just start to run out of it for the correct level. But putting the fluid in thru the shifter is easier. Just pull the lower plug to check the fluid level.

Will the tranny go in 1st or 2nd with the engine not running?

 

[skippy]

maybe this will help with fluid level.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13162

there was a thread on shifter pin alignment awile back,i can't find it.perhaps someone else will chime in,please be patient.

 

[my77stang]

Thanks for the heads up on the fluid plugs, and yeah hopefully more will chime in with answers to the shifting problem. I'm gonna go ahead and pull the bottom cover and have someone move the shifter around to see WTF is going on. To answer your question, no it will not go into 1st or second with the motor off either. It almost feels like maybe its not moving far enough over to the left, and you can hear a metal on metal sound when you try to move it to the left like its stopping against something.

 

[my77stang]

*Update*

I pulled the bottom cover and everything looks good. I pulled the shifter out and used a 3/8 extension as a mock shifter and after kicking the crap outta it I can get it into 1st and 2nd (as verified by having someone watch the sliders move under the vehicle), but its extremely stiff, and then has a hard time getting back to neutral. I dont know if it was dry up inside, or if there is something galded up in there but I am at a point where I don't know what to do.

Can I pull the tail and center plate off while in the vehicle and get to the rods that go from the shifter to the slider? Does it have to come back out? Are there any other access points that can be used to directly lube where they slide? (what are those two small covers on the side?)

 

[MAKG]

You can sorta get at the shift rods like you suggest, but I VERY STRONGLY suggest removing the transmission in order to do this.

It may be something like a bent shift rod. Maybe a broken interlock or detent part. You'll have to pop out a roll pin from the FRONT of the transmission through an access port on the top in order to remove the shift rod. I can't imagine doing this with the transmission installed.

Frankly, I wouldn't even screw with that. Get a better transmission. If the TK5 had a guarantee, use it.

 

[Jorley]

x2. The shift rod for 1st - 2nd gears most likely bent. You will have to pull it to remove the shift rod.
Once removed, there are 2 large bolts between the 2 plates on the side. Remove the top one, be careful, there is a spring and a small ball bearing inside. Once they are out try shifting the tranny. If you can shift it easily,check that the ball bearing can move easily into the bolt. If the bearing won't move easily in the bolt, ream the hole in the bolt out alittle to get to fit.

If it doesn't shift easily the shift rod is bent. To remove it, you have to remove the rear of the tranny to get to the shift rods. You will need a gear puller to remove 2 bearings to do this.

After you pull the 2 bearing you will be removing some gears. Make sure to notice how they come out and any spacers and/or thrust washers. Everything must go back in as it came out!!

Once you can get at the shift rods remove the rear of the 2 plates on the side. Drive the pin from the shifting fork and pull the shift rod out.

If you elect to do this, make sure to keep everything clean. It's not really hard as long as you pay attention to what you are doing.

 

[my77stang]

I had gone thru the M5R1 (my first trans rebuild) so I have an idea of what I'd be getting myself into, and I have been building motors for 10 years so I would like to say I'm not a lightweight or anything. That being said, Transmissions still scare me =)

I have no guarantee on the trans. Like I said in my 2nd post of the thread I'm in a whole parts truck for 100.00 and I have definately gotten my money out of it - but this damn TK5 WORKED FINE before I got it which is why its extremely frustrating. Also, after customizing the driveshaft to make this trans fit I cannot go back to an M5R1 without getting another driveshaft as well. Since I want to sell this thing, I don't want to invest anymore time or money than needed.

Let me get some clarification on that ball bearing / side cover. If I can get that cover off with the trans in the vehicle, I should be able to pop the spring and ball bearing out of there and check how it shifts?

Thanks to everyone for their help thus far.

 

[Jorley]

Yeah, I was kinda nervous when I started working on mine. You don't have to remove the cover to get the ball and spring out. Just remove the top bolt between the 2 covers. You might be able to get at it with the tranny still in. I just don't think the ball will come out, because of the angle of the hole it's in. But you can still check how it shifts with just the bolt out. If it shifts good with the bolt out, you can use a magnet to get the ball out.

 

[my77stang]

Yeah I was thinking a small magnet. I guess my next question would be why would that ball be a possible cause anyhow?

 

[Jorley]

On the shift rod there are small indentations that the ball fits into to hold it in gear and to keep it from going into 2 different gears. The spring just maintains pressure on the ball to hold it in place.

If the ball can't move freely into the bolt, the shift rod won't be able to slide past. The ball goes down into the indent and when you move the shift rod the full diameter of the rod pushes it up in the bolt until it hits another indent.

You said in one of your post that the tranny had sat up for awhile. Over time any fluid would have evaporated and/or any moisture could have gummed up the ball and/or bolt and not allowing it to move freely as it should.

If this is hard to follow, I have a TK5 in pieces and I can get some pics to help explain it better.

 

[my77stang]

i follow =)

hey if i end up needing any parts is your TK5 a parts tranny?

btw, if anyone needs M5 parts let me know, im probably gonna gut it and scrap the case. everything is good cept the input shaft

 

[my77stang]

i popped the spring and ball bearing out of the top hole, didnt help. i talked with my buddy who owns a tranny shop and he's gonna fix 'er up in trade for the M5R1 parts tranny i have. pulled the damn TK back outta the II this after noon in about an hour, I'm becoming painfully familiar with these damn things =/

 

[Jorley]

Yeah, that was a long shot, but sometimes you get lucky. Sorry it wasn't this time. When you find out what's wrong with it, post it up.

 

[my77stang]

yeah i definately will, and i appreciate the help.

 

[my77stang]

fix listed in my original post =)