Recent content by brinker88

I absolutely love that MC cantilever design. Definitely stealing that for my future build

I got really good results with my explorer/ranger combo pack and the rear of my truck is lighter than a BII (fiberglass bed). Coupled with a good set of shocks, it's the perfect DD setup. The leaf springs have 7 leaves per pack

Yea those work as well, but usually have more mileage on them.

96-01 is a good base to start.

Ford rangers had 3 different front diffs in them. 1.) Dana 28. 2.) Dana 35 HYBRID (D35 with D28 internals) <-- This is the diff that has a smooth case. And 3.) The typical Dana 35 (with a ribbed 3rd member, for that extra pleasure) Hope that clears anything up for you

There's a nut welded up inside the beam. You'll have to get in there with a wrench and hold on to it or weld it back on. Or cut the stud and buy a new one from me (I have a couple of them laying around) or broncograveyard.com sells them.

FYI, a smaller diameter rod burns HOTTER than a larger rod. Stick to 110 MIG for a job like that and you'll be fine.

Have you checked the vaccuum diaphram on the transmission? Sounds like it could be your problem. If the vaccuum line OR the diaphram is bad, it won't shit right. It's located on the passenger side of your transmission up on top. You can see it if you unbolt your inspection plate in the cab.

*axle

I use a socket with an extension on a breaker bar. I can reach it through the top of the spring bucket.

I use spicer OE joints as well. If I'm in a pinch, I use BruteForce joints. They are available at Advance Auto Parts.

I am SO jealous of that snow you have. I'm sure it'll get here (PA) though.

Tractor Supply, Buyers Products Inc, and Harbor Freight all carry this item.

So.....why the big ass square bumper? Use some imagination and make it unique. Granted that's unique, but looks like shit. (IMHO)

You DO realize a bumper doesn't need to be massive to be strong, right?