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Found the problem....It was what I thought....was using the DS from a TK and it was 2in longer than my original. It fit because when it's nearly compressed all the way you can just squeeze it in there. I picked up the shorter model cardon shaft today at a yard and it solved all my problems...

From what I read quickly as I could since I'm at work is that the TK DS is 2" longer than the m50d one. Is this true? Could somewhere verify that I have too long of a DS on there? Would that cause these issues?

This isn't just a little vibration, it's enough to shake my mirrors a bit. Also, when I go over bumps there is a big clank like binding in the joints or something. I'm beginning to think this shaft is too long, hope fully I haven't ruined anything, I drove it 40 miles to work and have a 40...

Is it safe to drive it 600 miles highway like this? I don't want to risk breaking down. It seems like it's not as bad on the highway but it's pretty bad around town below 40mph. What should I be looking for as far as play? Just grab the shaft and shake it to see if it has movement? I updated...

There aren't any dents on the shaft....to check the joints do I just see if they have play? The helper springs were only about a 1/2 or so off extra lift but maybe that was enough? The vibration I'm getting now is quite a bit at low speeds...... Since I didn't mark the rear end when I removed...

Hey guys, so my CV drive shaft took a crap on me the other day. I had a spare used double cardan drive shaft with the flanges on it. I ended up finally getting it on (had to let the rear end hang as low as possible and loosen the trans mount bolts to pry it forward) but anyways, I got it on...

Outside of the things I have replaced (coil and ICM) what else is there left besides the stator/pickup? (Assuming the issue isn't wiring)

Would I be better off just buying a whole new distributor? At this point I would rather pay a few extra dollars for a quick repair than save money by spending time trying to single out one component. I usually wouldn't have a problem spending some time on something but I am moving in a couple...

So I can purchase the pick up for around $40 (I recently replaced the ignition coil and icm) or would i be better off just buying the whole distributor assembly with new icm for $100?

I'll look into all the stuff listed above this weekend. I haven't checked the codes as I've never seen the check engine light come on. Would it still store the codes if the CEL has never flashed?

I can replace the coil and pickup but before I do so I was hoping someone might have had the same symptoms and been able to narrow down what it was. Thanks for the suggestions though!

Hey guys, I'm having an issue and hopefully it's something someone else has had so it will be an easy diagnosis. When I'm at low rpm (below 2000) every so often the engine hiccups and the tach will just drop like it's lost it's signal all of a sudden. It usually snaps right back up a second...

Thanks for the input guys, as I was saying I don't have to sell it, just thinking about it as I'm getting ready to move etc... I was thinking in the neighborhood of $2000 or so (to the average person, craigslist etc...) I know most people here would want a B2 just to beat on and this one...

Hey guys, not sure if this is allowed but here goes. I may need to sell my B2 soon as I am moving and need some spare cash etc...What do you think is a fair market price for what I have? 1989 B2 4wd Approx 20k on full motor rebuild (2.9L) M5OD Trans Swap (all new bushings/metal seals) 10"...

Well I think I got it figured out. I guess if your already reading this thread than maybe you can still help.... The whole reason I had to go back in is because I had new rear shoes installed about a week or two ago but yesterday when I was leaving from work the left rear wheel seemed like it...

Hey guys, I have an 89 B2.....I am doing the rear brake shoes and in all the pics I've looked at as well as the Haynes manual there are two little prongs that come off the wheel cylinder and contact the shoes. On mine there are just two pistons with no little prong things....is something wrong...

I jut swapped my FM146 for a MD05, I must have got a 4wd version (you mention 2 different versions) as I used the transfer case and it bolted straight up to the oem driveshaft. Why not just get a 4wd version and use your dummy transfer case and not worry about getting a driveshaft made? Then...

Got one today at the junkyard out of an auto and it bolted right up. Ran me $50 which is about half of what they wanted to extend the original one I had.

I ended up wiring tying them up high. I actually just pulled it out of the garage today. It had some headers on it which interfered with the front driveshaft so I just dropped it off at the muffler shop to get the y-pipe rerouted. Sat it's getting an alignment and then from there I just need...

Mine is an early 1350 I would believe, I want to say it's no newer than 86, at the earliest. So if I understand this correctly, I'm looking for a shaft out of a 89-90 B2 or out of a 91-94 Explorer. Both shafts would need to be from a manual trans with manual transfer case, the Explorer shaft...