Search results

It is the oil. Oil pressure is from back pressure at the bearings. The thicker the oil the harder it will be to squeeze out thru the bearing surfaces. This is why 6psi is fine at idle, any psi means there is more oil than can be squeezed out at the bearings, so a back pressure builds up. But...

Oh, two other things because of the age and probability the engine has had a few DIYers working on it :) On the throttle linkage, cable side, there maybe a screw adjustment, this is to set minimum idle, not "the idle". To set it correctly you warm up the engine, then unhook the IAC valve, idle...

Yes, that is the gauge temp sender, a 1 wire device. There is also a 2 wire sensor, the ECT sensor, it should be near the temp sender. The ECT sensor is only used by the computer, it tells the computer when the engine has warmed up so yes it does effect the idle. But if the engine has not...

It would be fine to use. Do "Flip test" on the other rad first, to make sure it's tubes are open. Flip test: Put rad cap on. Place radiator so cooling tubes are running up and down. Put hand over lower hose opening. Fill rad to the top via upper rad hose opening. Stop filling. Remove hand...

Yes the higher the second number the "thicker" the oil is at normal operating temp, 200deg. Lower number is how the oil "thickness" will act at lower temps, below freezing. So a 10w/30 will "act" like a 10 when cold, not be 10, just "act" like a 10, lol.

5-7 psi at warm idle is OK, low but OK to prevent bearing/engine damage. It is odd on a rebuild with new bearings through. Oil pressure is the back pressure as oil is forced out the bearing gaps, so not pump pressure. As long as there is any pressure oil is lubing and cooling the bearings...

Have a look here at the wiring diagram: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/diagram_charging_1983to1985_1.JPG Could be external Voltage Regulator wiring No, loud whining would not be normal with old or new anything, could starter motor gear still be engaged? Remove fan...

The EGR system is only used when engine is under load, so accelerating, going uphill, pulling a load, ect.... It is there for lowering emission but it also cools the cylinders preventing pinging/knocking. The computer is setup for the exhaust gas coming in under load and adjusts the fuel/air...

Have a read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html The work sheet can be very helpful, even if you have gone over everything before.

High idle on a cold engine is normal. You should have a motorcraft 2150 carburetor, it will have a choke plate at the top of the carb that closes when engine(choke spring) is cold, this can also have a cam that holds the throttle plate(bottom of the carb) open a little more at idle until...

You can test your battery just using a volt meter. After driving it, so battery is recharge, test the battery's voltage, engine off key off, 12.6v-12.8v battery is good (100% of rated amps) 12.5v starting to go, look for battery sales for the next few months 12.4v start shopping this week (75%...

Yes, I like Interstate batteries as well. Most Marine batteries are deep cycle , but "Marine battery" doesn't mean deep cycle, "marine" usually means it is sealed so no cap vents at all. Boats usually have at least two batteries, both could be deep cycle and both would be used to start the...

^^^ I agree There are thin plate batteries and there are thick plate batteries. Thin plate batteries can quickly discharge high amps, like for a starter motor, but because of the thin plates they don't react well to long term drain, the plates end up shorting out, common symptom of shorted...

How long did the stock rubber one last............29 years, ok only 28 years if it was made late in '84, lol.........your money

Yes, the light switch is on the upper e-brake pedal, check there. It should just be a plunger type setup, when brake pedal is pushed plunger comes out and Grounds the dashboard light, so if it is misaligned then it is always out and light is always on. It's similar to the older door switch...

Just as a heads up about bleeding these. The air trapped in the system is often in the Master not the slave. The master sits at an angle with no bleeder at the top. You can spend a lot of time bleeding the slave/line and still have a soft pedal. If you can, seal the disconnect so fluid can't...

Because of computer controlled fuel/air mixtures bolt-on engine parts can't always do what they used to. i.e. headers and intakes. Removing the engine fan and installing an electric fan frees up a few HP.

Yes, the pump comes on to prime the system for 1 to 2 seconds when key is first turned to on, that is normal. The ECM(computer) does this, then it uses RPM and TPS to determine how often to turn on the pump once engine is started. The ECM does not power the fuel pump directly, the ECM turns on...

I would try a new relay. Clicking usually means the electro-magnet is pulling down the contact arm, so ECM is triggering the relay, but it doesn't mean the contacts to send the 12v to the inertia switch are working, these can get corroded or just wear away enough to not make contact. IMO I...

Depending on the Saturn engine they should both be about 140hp Bronco II weights in at 3,200lbs Saturn 2,300lbs That's 30% more for the Bronco II to drag around Not to mention the wind resistance at speed, lol I would imagine gearing would be a little different as well. Outside of the timing...