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1989 bronco 2 crank no start(new to forum)


Broncojonesn

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Hi all, I'm completely new to this forum and just wanna make sure I'm doing this correctly before I type out in detail what's going on with my bronco 2. It's 1989 that I'm about to my wits end with. So if i can proceed here please let me know or if I need to go elsewhere in the forum I will do so . Thanks
 


XTC90BII

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You can ask your question here if it kind of a general question or you can ask it in the specific thread covering that subject ie 2.9 engine question, transmission, axle, interior etc.

Dennis
 

Broncojonesn

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Ok, I'll try to keep it as short as I can , I pulled my 1989 bronco 2 into my garage about 2 weeks ago and when I put it in park the idle reved high, it done this a few weeks ago and I give the iac a light tap and it went back to normal and was fine until now , at that point I cut it off and when I went back to start it it didn't wanna start until I pressed the gas some and it fired, it idled high then died, I started it back and reved it and had a bad miss and upon letting off the throttle it died again. Pulled the codes and had a tps code so I decided to just order some parts , I ordered all this new , iac, tps, fuel pressure regulator , complete distributor, cap button and all with new tif, map sensor , plugs and wires, valve cover gaskets , new oil pressure sending unit, temp sending unit , temp sensor , alternator( mine was going out ) , new belt and I'm sure I'm missing something but it had been along time since replacing some of it and I wanted to get it all over with. When I got the parts I replaced the iac and tps first just because they were easy and I wanted to see if that was my issue , well it wouldn't start at all, since I had an oil leak around the distributor ( which is why I ordered a new distributor , that and for the new tif, I just went ahead and replaced all my parts , still no start. It would get to a point that it would almost start and even run on like 2 or 3 cylinders for about 10 seconds if I kept the gas pedal floored. So I moved the distributor a tooth forward , no change , a tooth back and one past that and nothing , out it back exactly where it was when I took it out and no change . Checked compression and it's good , worst cylinder was 125, best was 135 or so, fuel pressure is 39psi koeo, 38psi while cranking , good spark at the coil and good blue spark on all six wires and plugs , I've traced all the wiring and found nothing bad, it will not start on starting his either so I don't think it's a fuel issue . Today I checked the timing chain slack, and I have almost 9* of slack in the chain. Could that be my issue ? Thanks and sorry for being so long winded
 

Broncojonesn

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Will NOT start on starting fluid!!
 

Broncojonesn

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Forgot to mention I've also swapped the main computer as well and no change , did the same thing .
 

XTC90BII

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You are welcome. Hopefully someone with way more experience than me can provide some help/advise.

Ddennis
 

Broncojonesn

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Thanks Dennis

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bronco2fan

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Did you put the original computer back in ? It cranks but won't catch? If it won't start with fluid it's usually a timing issue. It's been my experience that if it started before you replaced parts, it probably something you did. Go back thru and check everything you replaced for proper install. No wires in the wrong places etc. TFI may be acting up too, sometimes new ones aren't good out of the box.
 

Broncojonesn

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Yes I have put the original computer back in it and no change . I even at one point put the old distributor back in it and most of my old parts but nothing . It did start before all this but it was hard to start and the last time I tried it start it before changing parts it would not start . So what ever the problem is I do believe it happened before all my parts changing . Thanks for the reply

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JerryC

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you have spark, fuel and some compression. So valve timing would be my guess.
9 degrees of slop in the chain sounds like a lot to me.
 

Broncojonesn

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Thank you Jerry for addressing that. I too feel as if it's too much and it's causing this whole issue . I've literally tried everything and all the diagnostic tests I've run come back good or within spec. It must be vlave timing, like the tensioner is bad . I'm just gonna order a timing chain kit and hope that's the problem . Thanks for the reply


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Broncojonesn

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Thought everyone might like seeing what were working with here . I do love this vehicle so , it's killing me that it's down .


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Broncojonesn

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Ok, so I finally got around to changing the timing chain gears and tensioner, still no change . It gets so close to starting , even when I let off the key from cranking you can tell it's wanting to run just won't . Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks for all the replies

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JerryC

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What are the compression numbers now?
 

Broncojonesn

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There all still in spec and pretty good if you ask me , 145 to 155 , I also changed the coil just to eliminate it . It tries to start and it gets really close, when you let off the key from cranking it is trying to run . I'm just stumped.

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JerryC

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You have what you need (spark, fuel compression) so it should run. Recheck the basics, TDC on cyl one and dist is in the right place. Correct firing order, etc...

Just for giggles unplug the TPS and see if it will start. I don't remember if the BII has the feature that if it is wide open it shuts off the injectors. A bad (even new) TPS could do that.
 

Broncojonesn

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Tdc is good, firing order is good , rotary button is pointing almost perfectly at the number on the cap . The tps is new and I have checked it with a volt meter just to be sure , it's .97 volts at closed throttle and 4.97 volts at wide open throttle . I've literally replaced everything but the motor lol I still think at this point it's some kind of electrical issue and that just isnty strong suit . When I do finally figured it out I'll be sure to post for anyone else that may be having this problem .

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Broncojonesn

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I have noticed my tach gauge seems to read high while cranking and even sometimes it will spin all the way around . Anyone think that's odd ? Or is it normal ? I don't recall any vehicle I've ever owned or worked on that the tach has ever acted quite like this .

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JerryC

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my manual shows the tach connection is at the coil, check eh connector and wiring.
 

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