4.0L Engine Swap - Fuel line Spring Lock Coupling Issue

[belovedb2]

I am pulling the 4.0L engine from my doner Explorer but an having difficulty disconnecting the fuel line spring lock coupling. I have the plastic tools that spread the spring but it does not seem to do the job. Is there a metal tool that is better at getting the spring to expand? Is there a special technique?

 

[fangotango306]

auto z or advanced and i think even napa have a fuel line tool that looks like a pair of pliers, slip it in and spread it and it works on a lot of sizes without changing tools. i think it was like $20 though. hope this helps.

 

[CJREX]

The plastic one should work fine.

You might need to spray some PB Blaster into the connector because the springs get sticky and packed with gunk.

Spray it, wait a few minutes, and the tool will likely pop it right out.

 

[BlackBII]

Yeah, plastic ones should work, probably just stuck. PB blaster, also, I have had to use two sets of pliers to push the tool into the coupling to get more clamping force to seperate the two, but that was before I grew my 'man hands'. :icon_thumby:

 

[Jixxer6]

auto z or advanced and i think even napa have a fuel line tool that looks like a pair of pliers, slip it in and spread it and it works on a lot of sizes without changing tools. i think it was like $20 though. hope this helps.

I have the same tool. I have had better luck with it that the plastic ones.

 

[AllanD]

The issue isn't that the plastic (mine are made by OTC) tool doesn't expand the spring.

The issue is that the metal parts of the fitting are STUCK to the two sealing O-Rings
inside the fitting.

What I do FIRST is grab both halves of the fitting with pliers and
make the pieces ROTATE before releasing the spring with the tool.

Then Pull like hell before on both halves of the connector once the spring
is released but this runs the risk of shattering the release tool.

AD

 

[AKBroncoII]

Push the female end onto the line first before trying to pull them apart. Push together with the tool in place >< Then pull apart <>

 

[AllanD]

The "Garter spring" type connectors don't require the artistic pushing and pulling like the barbed fittings used later.

Infact there was a problem back when they were introduced in the mid 80's where without the safety clips (Added in late '86)
they'd disconnect themselves.

but given time (years) the O-rings will "stick" and hold the fitting together. 15years later that O-ring sticking issue will drive you nutz.

BTW, when reassembling, the best assembly lube for the garter spring connectors? (to prevent future problems)

And DO NOT FORGET the safety clips, back in '85-86 when EFI was relatively new a lot of shiny new Bronco2's and Rangers burned to the ground after those garter spring connections
disconnected themselves.

The safety clips added were the "fix"

Smear the O-rings with Vaseline (NO OTHER SUBSTITUTES)
because vaseline is completely soluble in gasoline it won't clog
things further downstream.

Vaseline WILL clog diesel fuel systems, because Vaseline IS the
"wax" that precipitates from Diesel and heavier fuel oils.

AD

 

[D.J.]

Ranger line problem

0930091945[1].jpg

0930091944[1].jpg

Can any tell me if this was the fitting in question?

 

[AllanD]

0930091945[1].jpg

0930091944[1].jpg

Can any tell me if this was the fitting in question?

No PIC!

AD

 

[D.J.]

photo?

 

[D.J.]

photo?

 

[CopyKat]

Fail X2

 

[BlackBII]

Dude. Upload your photos to http://www.photobucket.com/ and then post the

 

[belovedb2]

Thanks for all the help on the connection. I have disconnected the large fuel line but not the smaller one. I can rotate each end which means that the orings are not sticking, but I noticed that the cage is moving with the female end (non cage end) which tells me that the spring is stuck to the female end and also the cage. I am working to loosen up the spring and get it unstuck. Thanks.

 

[belovedb2]

Thanks for all the help on the connection. I have disconnected the large fuel line but not the smaller one. I can rotate each end which means that the orings are not sticking, but I noticed that the cage is moving with the female end (non cage end) which tells me that the spring is stuck to the female end and also the cage. I am working to loosen up the spring and get it unstuck. Thanks.

 

[D.J.]

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

When I've had trouble getting them to separate, I've soaked them with pb blaster (or similar), then I'd jam the tool in there to spread the garter spring and take a small wrench and tap on the female end of the fitting while I pulled and twisted. That seemed to work good for shaking it free, not a real big wrench and not a real hard hit, but like a half inch wrench and sorta drum on it.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Like everyone said the plastic is fine, however i have amulti fuel fitting tool. Kinda universal made of metal works great from advance auto parts. Check out the thread about breakfree products, they did a homemade concoction that will break your fuel ines loose, Before I got these tools though I did my bros 92 crown vic with two flathead screwdrivers. (4.6)

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Like everyone said the plastic is fine, however i have amulti fuel fitting tool. Kinda universal made of metal works great from advance auto parts. Check out the thread about breakfree products, they did a homemade concoction that will break your fuel ines loose, Before I got these tools though I did my bros 92 crown vic with two flathead screwdrivers. (4.6)

I wouldn't use the homemade cocktail of acetone and ATF to get fuel lines free... there is a chance that the acetone will attack the o-rings