84 b2

[509lifted]

ok so i posted a few months back about my truck not wanting to run right and all well its still doing it and idk y and i dont have money to just be dumping into it to find out which part is the problem so herre it is. my first gear is a pain in the a$$ to start going if im going up a hill from a stop and second when im on flat ground shifting from first to second it has no power for a good 5 10 seconds then finally it kicks in and goes what would be the cause of those two problems

 

[Shran]

Dirty carburetor would be my guess. Could be a lot of things. Just have to do some basic troubleshooting.

 

[jimbII]

first thing I would do is .......
Take off breather , with the engine warmed up and idling put your hand on top of the carb blocking air to the carb .....

If the engine continues to run or speeds up you have a vacuum leak , BY SHUTTING OFF AIRFLOW THE ENGINE SHOULD DIE

check all vacuum hoses and connections , check the carb base gasket by spraying penetrating oil WD40 or something like that if a leak is present the engine will speed up.......
.... if you use starting fluid or carb cleaner you may just find a second reason for hesitation which is bad plug wires .... you'll know this when the carb cleaner explodes and you burn your car to the ground....NOT RECOMMENDED....

If you are certain there's no fuel problem then check ignition problems , the best telltale factor you have as to the performance of your engine is the spark plugs

engines need 3 things to run

proper air/fuel mix
spark/timing
compression

by looking at your plugs you can more or less determine how your engine is running

brownish looking plugs means everything is proper good running

black sooty plugs says you have a problem with
a/f mixture engine running rich.....clogged air filter...choke not opening properly etc......low compression
spark problems high resistance in secondary..... dist cap , rotor , wires , plugs

white powdery looking plugs.....vacuum leak....... clogged fuel filter(this would likely have more affect than tip in hesitation..ie poor performance at high rpm ..engine surge(also a vac leak problem)

if the plugs are all the same color then check for something that would affect everything , if the plugs are not consistent in color with each other look for something affecting the odd colored plug.

if you find a clean plug chances are it was steam cleaned ...guess where that came from

I hope this helps you out , it will at least give you an
Idea where to start .........

it doesn't matter how many computers are on a car .....an engine is an engine

 

[509lifted]

well when i pulled my plugs a couple weeks ago they were black, before that i had changed the plug wires cap and rotor. i have changed the tfi cause it didnt wanna run for more that a few mins and that fixed that problem then when i was going down the road doing 60 my fourth gear didnt wanna work so i would have to leave it in third figured out that if i flipped the filter lid and put it on that way it would run but if i flipped it back it would utilize fourth so i drilled holes on the lid around the outside of the filter and that cleared it up now i can run it in fourth so im guessing its a fuel to air ratio how would i go about fixing that?

 

[jimbII]

not real sure about these feed back systems of ford ,but when I bought my 85 I had to drive it about 70 miles to get it home, all the way the OD kept acting like it wanted to kick in but would immediately kick back into D, after getting it home I found a few broken vac lines and 1 vacuum line in the front that went from the carb base to the centerhead right below it that wasn't off, but swelled real bad and leaking. I wasn't doing this to fix the trans problem actually, but just knew it wasn't right. just doing this fixed idle problem , no load driving surge , acceleration issues , AND either the OD problem just went away or the vacuum issues fixed that to. If the o2 sensor is seeing to much o2 due to a vacuum leak it's going to try to compensate for it by adding fuel.....also OD systems monitor engine load... and a big determining factor of engine load is vacuum

But I'm not all that up on Ford systems but it can't be that different from other systems

hope this helps

 

[509lifted]

ok so maybe that is y i always smell gas is because of a vaccum leak? like i will shut the truck off and it will just reak of gas. does anyone know what i can swap the plastic hoses with for vaccum lines.

 

[PetesPonies]

What 4th gear in an '84 Bronco II ??? Automatics were C5s, 3 speeds.

 

[Shran]

What 4th gear in an '84 Bronco II ??? Automatics were C5s, 3 speeds.

I assumed he had a manual.

I am still gonna go with a fuel delivery issue. Probably a dirty/clogged/worn out carburetor and some leaking vacuum lines. Your fuel smell could be a leaking or flooded carb.

 

[jimbII]

uuuhh ok so I'm getting confused here now, "fourth gear didn't want to work " or it didn't want to run in fourth?.........check to see if your choke is opening all the way.....and flipping your lid shouldn't have any affect

 

[jimbII]

I assumed he had a manual.

I assumed that also , but then he said 4th didn't want to work so then I went under the assumption he meant OD didn't want to kick in......but yea I'd say it's in the carb/vacuum , definitely a fuel delivery issue , now that we have the smell of fuel at shutoff

cold engine....breather off

open your throttle once , the choke should snap closed.

start your engine , vacuum pull-off should open the choke about an 1/8 of an inch

with-in a reasonable amount of time the choke will open fully ,usually around a minute or so.

 

[509lifted]

yes i have a manual and how would i fix my carb since it doesnt open all the way ever not when the engine is warm even i know i have a faulty choke but i un hooked it and it worked better but still not great

 

[jimbII]

choke heater on the right of the carb. passenger side ......should have voltage when the engine is running.

you can unplug it and check for v with a test light ...y or no....

you can get a jumper wire and jump voltage to the heater from the battery to see if the choke heater itself is working ...without the engine running ...just watch to see if it opens.

if it doesn't you need to replace the choke heater

if it does open it needs adjusted so it will open all the way

search youtube for choke adjust . there's a lot of helpful stuff on there

 

[PetesPonies]

wow . . so you have a manual trans . then how does this statement get written???

my fourth gear didnt wanna work

:icon_confused::icon_confused::icon_confused:

 

[Shran]

yes i have a manual and how would i fix my carb since it doesnt open all the way ever not when the engine is warm even i know i have a faulty choke but i un hooked it and it worked better but still not great

What I would recommend you do is find a repair shop that can do a good rebuild on your carb and talk to them about letting you watch how it's done. They will be able to diagnose any other issues too. We are pissing in the dark here, you need some basic knowledge about how to adjust this stuff or you won't get it right.

 

[PetesPonies]

Better to get rid of the feedback carb and computer. Run a Duraspark ignition and standard 2100 carb. It will run much better.

 

[Shran]

Better to get rid of the feedback carb and computer. Run a Duraspark ignition and standard 2100 carb. It will run much better.

Totally agreed but I seem to remember that Washington has pretty strict emissions testing and doesn't pass Duraspark swaps. I could be wrong though.

 

[PetesPonies]

They actually have somebody there that knows the difference ??????????????????????????????????????

 

[509lifted]

yes duraspark is illegal for emissions but im lucky the town i live in has no emissions testing so im lucky and petesponies my forth gear wouldnt work as in put it in fourth and the speed drops instead of increases and this being even going 75 i would shift to fourth and it still would drop in speed and it never would do that

 

[kimcrwbr1]

In wa if the vehicle is 25yrs old emission is not required. As for the carb did you mess with the idle air needles. Do not hook the choke thermostat up to battery power you will have to replace it you can check for voltage it gets a pulse similar to the guage regulator. If the choke dont open all the way when the engine is warm unscrew the three screws and open it manually before you do anything to the carb. If the thermostat has the break away screws take a small chizzel and unscrew the three screws until you can grab them with your fingers and save at least one so you can get replacement screws. Disconnect the battery while your messing with the choke and cleaning all the wire connectors for the computer. Spreay then with elect cleaner and use dielectric grease when putting back together. Fix any cracked or bare wires you find be thorough. Run the engine for 10 minutes or so and confirm the choke is all the way open then see how it does on a mountain pass.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

There are about 7 ground wires to the engine and computer pull them apart and sand metal to metal tell us what you find out good or bad.