99 Explorer Clutch Questions

[UrbanRedneckKid]

This is basic, self explanatory, stuff.
Remove both shafts.
Remove the t-case.
Remove the transmission.

Just get some tools and get under it. It's not as difficult as you think.

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[PetesPonies]

Why not own a repair manual???

 

[jkufen]

I am going to go get one this week. I went to my dads today after class this morning and we got underneath and just looked at it. I was going to start taking parts out but I just soaked everything with PB Blaster. We established that the y-pipe is going to be a PITA to cut the bolts out of. I can use a cutting wheel on two but the top one I am going to have to go buy a new saw zaw to get it out. I just ordered new U-joints, rear main seal, and a rear pinion seal. Today was the first time I actually looked underneath it and it is pretty well rusted. It is originally from Maine. I need to drop the oil pan and clean it out but looking at it it looks nearly impossible to do while still in the truck the front couple bolts look impossible to get to. I also ordered new parts like rotors, pads, shocks etc. so I will have my 3 days off next week full. I have next Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday off from work and it's our spring break so I will have from sun up to sun down to work on it.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

If you have access and the ability, cut the lower section of the left y-pipe with a sawz-all, then weld it back in. My truck way born and raised on the east coast, the bolts would have been impossible to remove. I was able to cut and weld it for the tranny 7 times before it was too much to redo again. The reason that I now have headers...

And your assumption on the oil pan is correct. It cannot be removed without pulling the engine up and/or out completely.

And another rid bit I've learned, once your tranny is out, there is a pinch weld where the firewall meets the trans tunnel. Pound it rearward and flat w/ a 3lb hammer(shoot some paint on the cracked paint). It gives you quite a bit of bellhousing clearance for installing and removal, also better access to the bellhousing bolts.

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[jkufen]

Yeah if i cant get the bolts out i will cut the pipe. I cant weld but ill put in a coupling and bolt it together with clamps.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

That won't work, it ends up being cut on bends.

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[jkufen]

I guess im gonna hope i can get the bolts out then

 

[jkufen]

Any tips on changing the rear main seal? I bought the seal with the wear sleeve i figured while i had the trans and everything out i may as well change the seal because im losing a good bit of oil.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Yeah. Take the flywheel off first or you'll have a hell of a time.

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[jkufen]

lol i am going to assume you are being sarcastic or I should ask can you even do it with the flywheel still on?

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

... Try it...

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[jkufen]

I dont think Ill try it. I dont need to purposely make it harder for me. I spoke with a buddy of mine at work who just changed the seal in his 1993 3.0 ranger and he said that he had to drop the pan and to do that he had to unbolt the engine from the mounts and lift the engine up to get the pan to clear the front axle and differential. By looking at the front of my explorer it looks like I may have to do the same thing because there isn't nearly enough room to get to all the bolts and drop the pan.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Pretty sure I already told you that...

 

[jkufen]

This is the misses she is so excited about all her new parts for her explorer. Tuesday I start putting everything in. Just gotta go get a repair manual tomorrow and waiting for the U-joints to come in.

 

[snoranger]

Yeah. Take the flywheel off first or you'll have a hell of a time.

:icon_rofl: