BII (some know how)

[flimflam]

Hello , new member here , during the winter i had come across a bII for sale , brand new crate engine 2.8 (not even 34km on it) with a 5 speed od manual trans for heres the kicker $400$, guy i bought from was at wits end with it no power couldnt get it past 70 km , well got it home found out only runnin 3 cyl , so fartin around found out some wires were old and decreped easy fix runs like a dream , ...

well heres my problem i live out on a farm 160 akers of land do do what i want and my neighbores are cool ppl we get drunk:icon_cheers: ect.. and go 4x4in alot well they love dodge hate ford and wont pull me out when stuck lol whatever got a fat ass diesel to pull me out but heres the thing i dont want to walk to get it any more , just want to rip though the skag and mud .

its basicly stock , i was lookin for a set of 31" tires but is there any tips tricks for makein a decent mudder/snowbogger , and cheap ways of doing things lol im cheap btw

 

[Boggin]

get some better friends
lol seriously though, my truck had a set of 32s stock, and only had minimal rubbing, so a cheap thing to do would be a 3" body lift, performance accessories makes these {https://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=753/706.2.8475.32354.0.0.0}

with the 3" BL you would be good with a set of 32s for sure, and if your truc isnt sagged like mine, you could fit 33"s, so there is one little step.

A locker for the rear is another good help, you can search around for all different prices, some may be pricey but you can get some that are cheaper than others.

also if you really want to get bigger tires but dont want a body lift, you can trim the fenders a bit.

and thats all i got, im sure more people can help

 

[88BII got it for $250]

Boggin-B-Series is right.
My 88 does fine with 31x10.50 with no lift what so ever, just explorer rear springs to fix the BII spring sag. only time it rubs is at full turn(on the anti swaybar) and in the rear at full "flex".(Only on the upper wheel wells)
But as Boggin-B said a body lift would help to fix the rub atleast in the rear, but 2inch would be good for 31s
Hope that helps.

 

[B2dangerous]

It depends on what your idea of 4x4ing is on what tire to use. Sure a 31 x 10.50 will work on a stock rig if all your doing is cruising dirt roads, but if you plan on doing alot of mudding, jumping or severe rock crawling your going to need some kind of lift and some fender trimming. Right now I'm running 30 x 9.50 Super swampers with a 3 inch suspension lift and have caved the lower portion of both front fenders in. I didn't trim them, just let them self clearance themselves. In the rear, the tires rub the lower corners of the fenders at full commpression.

If you shop around you can find suspension lifts used pretty resonable.

 

[alaskan155]

just lincoln lock it or put a spool in the rear if it is a offroader only plus the above

 

[jdc215]

weld the rear diff, then use some light scafolding from a country concert to fit between the frame and body to gain about 8" of body lift. :icon_welder: if you go to home depot you can get some sewer pipe to weld to your existing drive yokes to make an extended drive shaft. if you have a welder who knows what for, but having extra rebar around is a great idea for fabbing up brackets spare drive shafts body lifts, home made leaf springs, exct. BTW you will need some garden hose to attach your radiator which will be sitting 8" higher than your motor. in that case you might want to try the tarus electric fan mod. if you keep your eyes open you can get copper tubing at the hardware real cheap to redo all your brake lines too. :icon_thumby: other than that just have fun tearing it up. :icon_cheers:

 

[odie1969]

weld the rear diff, then use some light scafolding from a country concert to fit between the frame and body to gain about 8" of body lift. :icon_welder: if you go to home depot you can get some sewer pipe to weld to your existing drive yokes to make an extended drive shaft. if you have a welder who knows what for, but having extra rebar around is a great idea for fabbing up brackets spare drive shafts body lifts, home made leaf springs, exct. BTW you will need some garden hose to attach your radiator which will be sitting 8" higher than your motor. in that case you might want to try the tarus electric fan mod. if you keep your eyes open you can get copper tubing at the hardware real cheap to redo all your brake lines too. :icon_thumby: other than that just have fun tearing it up. :icon_cheers:

Dude You must be from Florida.

 

[jdc215]

Dude You must be from Florida.

the hot weather helps the mullet grow :icon_thumby:

 

[flimflam]

well , lots of info to take in lol, ok i went out got some nice mudzillas 31" , the back fit like it was made to be there the front not so well bad rubbin , so grabbed the grinder chopped the fenders a bit worked great till i bottemed out lol ouch well needless to say need new fenders , while under the b2 it hit me super easy and cheap "hockey pucks" for a lift ,took me about half a day but got er done lol a 30$ lift @ 7" :icon_hornsup: I took it to the biggest shit hole on the farm wow im super proud of my self , just want to mod up the carb now , im needin some kind of box now to cover and pipe away from water and mud .


also while in the prosess on fartin around in deep skag i think i either did the trans or pressure plate , the trans(5 speed) will go into gear but wont turn wheels dosent matter 1,2,3,4,5,R nothing so im leaning to plate :icon_confused: but ive been wrong before


oh and this aint no country road driver b2 either purely a get drunk and go in field and play

 

[freerider6_9]

does it grind if you try putting it in gear while running? reverse is easy to check lol sounds crude but just dont let it repeatedly grind. This might be a stupid question but is the t-case in N? have forgot the once or twice lol. try turning your driveshafts by hand with the tires off the ground. work your way from the t case to the front and it will make life easier.

 

[87xjmike]

weld the rear diff, then use some light scafolding from a country concert to fit between the frame and body to gain about 8" of body lift. :icon_welder: if you go to home depot you can get some sewer pipe to weld to your existing drive yokes to make an extended drive shaft. if you have a welder who knows what for, but having extra rebar around is a great idea for fabbing up brackets spare drive shafts body lifts, home made leaf springs, exct. BTW you will need some garden hose to attach your radiator which will be sitting 8" higher than your motor. in that case you might want to try the tarus electric fan mod. if you keep your eyes open you can get copper tubing at the hardware real cheap to redo all your brake lines too. :icon_thumby: other than that just have fun tearing it up. :icon_cheers:

Please for gods sake don't listen to anything this guy just said, except for the welded diff part, thats coo. This had to of been a joke, it was quite hilarious.