brake light/rear antilock light on

[Steeda04SVT]

Sweet, I will def check it out. I'm hoping that's all it is, because I was messing around moving the wire bundles alot when I was trying to install my new Clutch Master cylinder and thinking that it could of messed with something down there.

Plus I noticed there aren't very many places that sell all the exact pieces for the ABS system. Even LMC isn't very specific on the ABS system. Anybody know of any other sites that might offer the parts?

 

[--weezl--]

Rock auto

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Rock auto

Awesome. Thank you. :icon_cheers:

 

[Charles]

curious. when you replaced the sensor, did you clear the codes in the computer? Thinking maybe the sensor swap could have solved the problem but the computer is still storing/throwing out the same error.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Would I need to just pull the negative terminal on the battery and wait 30 minutes?

 

[Charles]

I think this is what you do, looks like unplugging the battery won't do it.


http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

http://www.broncoii4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3937

 

[lneidlinger]

Ever take the pic?

Changed out the sensor and no bueno. So I'm not sure what to check next.

Whoops, it actually is a 4 pin, each sensor wire has it's own ground.

This is on the driver side, about under where the steering column is in the frame rail.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

curious. when you replaced the sensor, did you clear the codes in the computer? Thinking maybe the sensor swap could have solved the problem but the computer is still storing/throwing out the same error.

If it was popping codes, wouldn't the check engine light be on then too? I disconnected the negative battery terminal for an hr and noticed the "Rear Anti Lock" Light wont come on until I go past 35-40 mph.

 

[--weezl--]

abs codes are different than eec-iv codes... they are stored differently, same with transmission codes, they show different lights on the dash... newer vehicles will have the od off light flash for a transmission code

 

[RyanL]

Anyone ever figure out what the issue was? The sensor weezl mentioned a few posts up is the speed sensor in the rear (typical hall effect type sensor). There's a few things that can go wrong with ABS such as the controller or the pump. I asked another BII owner about it not too long ago and he said that it is some sort of pressure switch which gets stuck. I tend to think that he's right because the system seems to work right even with the light on. The sensor (or what I believe to be the sensor) is located under the driver's side floor board closer to the fire wall. Anyone ever replace the sensor in question?

 

[Steeda04SVT]

I replaced in the sensor in the rear diff but have been trying to figure out where everything else is at to at least disconnect it and reconnect it to see if it's just a connection issue.

 

[TexCaliBII]

Don't know if this wil help ya'll but I just installed an 8.8 in my 87 this weekend and put all new brake lines on it. My brake fluid was way nasty so while I was bleeding the brakes I replaced the fluid and bled all 4 wheels till I got clear fluid on all 4 corners. My RABS light is no longer on but I have not driven the truck any distance yet, just to turn it around for the front lift kit so it may come back but I'm hoping not. But the fluid that came out was black as night and cruddy. I also had to replace a bleeder valve on the right front as it would not pass fluid at all. Hope this helps.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Will try with the connector on the frame rail under the driver's side. Plus will try with the brake fluid this week as I'm gonna throw new shoes at it with self adjuster kit. Bugs me everytime I see it come on once I hit 40 mph.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Plus where is the abs module? It says for 89-90 B2s, It's located in the dash under IP Panel mount on a brace, center of panel area. Any ideas exactly?

Don't know if this wil help ya'll but I just installed an 8.8 in my 87 this weekend and put all new brake lines on it. My brake fluid was way nasty so while I was bleeding the brakes I replaced the fluid and bled all 4 wheels till I got clear fluid on all 4 corners. My RABS light is no longer on but I have not driven the truck any distance yet, just to turn it around for the front lift kit so it may come back but I'm hoping not. But the fluid that came out was black as night and cruddy. I also had to replace a bleeder valve on the right front as it would not pass fluid at all. Hope this helps.

The fluid coming from the back brakes looked good, but when bleeding the front ones it was kinda dirty and nasty. How long did it take you to bleed til it was all clear? Went and drove it afterwards and still got Anti-Rear lock light once I hit 40mph. This is getting annoying. I think ABS Module is next

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Anybody??

 

[TexCaliBII]

Ohhh I hate quick TRS times me out!!!! Let's see if I can recall what I wrote.

Okay, I was lamenting wrenching all weekend when the weather was just gorgeous, oh well...

On the 2nd gen the ABS module control box is under the dash just to the left of the tranny tunnel. It’s a gold box about 1'X 4"X6" and the connector faces the firewall. I had changed that on mine too, to no avail. I also shot all the wiring to the ABS valve and all seemed to be correct. Mine was still on until I changed the fluid. maybe I jarred loose some gunk. I have read in the past someone fixed either an ABS issue or not fluid to rear wheels by changing out the "coupler" in the brake line just under the driver’s door. Also on the 2nd gen the ABS valve is on the frame rail below the master cylinder, all others is back by the left rear wheel.

Oh yeah, the bleeding. Took about 15 or so pumps for the rear and 10 for the front to start getting clear fluid. I used a cool little one way bleed valve I got from NAPA for $4.00. Worked like a champ and no killing my hand using a vacuum pump or one of the kids and open, down, close, up, etc. Just pump the brakes and the oneway took care of the rest. Cheers!

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Ohhh I hate quick TRS times me out!!!! Let's see if I can recall what I wrote.

Okay, I was lamenting wrenching all weekend when the weather was just gorgeous, oh well...

On the 2nd gen the ABS module control box is under the dash just to the left of the tranny tunnel. It’s a gold box about 1'X 4"X6" and the connector faces the firewall. I had changed that on mine too, to no avail. I also shot all the wiring to the ABS valve and all seemed to be correct. Mine was still on until I changed the fluid. maybe I jarred loose some gunk. I have read in the past someone fixed either an ABS issue or not fluid to rear wheels by changing out the "coupler" in the brake line just under the driver’s door. Also on the 2nd gen the ABS valve is on the frame rail below the master cylinder, all others is back by the left rear wheel.

Oh yeah, the bleeding. Took about 15 or so pumps for the rear and 10 for the front to start getting clear fluid. I used a cool little one way bleed valve I got from NAPA for $4.00. Worked like a champ and no killing my hand using a vacuum pump or one of the kids and open, down, close, up, etc. Just pump the brakes and the oneway took care of the rest. Cheers!

Might go get this speed bleeder tomorrow, need more info on it if you have any.

 

[TexCaliBII]

It's a simple item really. It was on the same rack as the gear pullers, brake pliers, things like that, and up here was $4.85. Don't know if would fit every bleed valve but it worked great on my BIIs and Explorer. It has a spring that keeps it from flying off. Just gotta check the fluid level in the reservoir every couple pumps to keep from draining it. I really need a larger reservoir to attach to the master cylinder to hold more fluid. I know I have seen them around, just have to do some research.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

My abs module is in the mail. Got those speed bleeders and hopefully that'll help more along with the abs module.

But with the module, I can get to it without having to take any part of the dash out?

 

[TexCaliBII]

I just slaved another box to the harness but IIRC it is just held in by a bracket you can get to kinda easily, didn't look like any disassembly of the dash was needed though.