d35/8.8 swap 89 b2

[natmanjoh]

So I plan to start my axle swap for the front and rear, got some questions about it. I have a 89 bronco 2, 2.9 auto, 3'' james duff stage 1. plan to make it a mild to moderate trail rig, but mainly a dd and fishing rig. plans are to run 31s with 4.11 or 4.56s (haven't decided).

first question: if i put kevlar extended brake hoses/lines on the d28, will they attach to the d35 as well? I don't want to spend $120 if they're going to be scrap as soon as I start the swap.

I've dont a lot of research on this site and here's what I've gathered as to what i'll need to buy from the scrapyard and will need to know to make the swap go smooth. Please correct me if i'm wrong or missing something.

d35 (what year explorer would be the best to salvage from? was thinking 91-93)
-housing assembly
-steering linkage from d35
-rotors (possible)
-use d28 radius arms over d35 ones
-calipers from d28 will be fine on d35 along with pads
-shorten front driveshaft (about 1'') (will it be better to take the front driveshaft from the explorer and modify that one over the stock one?)

8.8'' (31 spline from explorer, thinking same years as well 91-93)
-axle assembly
-rear driveshaft (from explorer)
-welding to make more secure

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'd skip the expensive brake lines and go for the off the shelf variety, I just put a 6" lift on my truck and am using '95 Suburban lines, I had to get a tee from the parts store (it took a slight modification to use but worked fine and change 3 flare nuts on my truck to do it but will let me use cheaper easier to find hoses... I'll try to get pics of what I ended up doing tomorrow.

the best front axle you can get is a '97 non ABS ranger as it'll have two piston calipers, but other than that the '91-94 explorers are easier to come by, I'd go for one without front ABS but I don't think any of those pieces would get in the way. Like you mentioned grab the whole thing including steering linkages, rotors and hubs.

on the front drive shaft, if it fits in the budget grab the transfer case from the explorer you get the axle from along with it's drive shaft, it'll upgrade you from having the slip spline in the transfer case to in the drive shaft and also give you a dual cardan joint for smoother running, thats the route I went but mainly because the slip spline in my T case was SHOT.

'91-94 explorer rear axle will be drum brake, '95-01 will be disc brake, your choice... This is the part where you actually have to modify things, the spring pads need to be moved from the bottom of the axle to the top and new shock mounts added since the explorer uses the spring plates to mount the shocks.

on the rear drive shaft, if you have one with U joints and not the crappy CV shaft you'll be fine, just get the yoke from the explorer drive shaft as it'll have a bigger pattern but most likely the same U joint.

 

[natmanjoh]

i didn't think about the abs part. i'll have to remember that. can't afford the t-case right now and unfortunely i do have the crappy cv shaft so I will definitely be going for the U joint one. thanks for the info. needed the verification to limit the headaches that are sure to come regardless. now it's time to work my ass off!

 

[natmanjoh]

you turbo'd your 2.3? was it worth it? or would it be better to just save for the 4.0l swap? my 2.9l is sitting with just over 145,000 and running strong, so I really don't want to change it in the near future. but man is it slow sometimes.

 

[scotts90ranger]

the appropriate gears make a big difference...

if I did it again, for wheeling I'd go 4.0... I love the 4.0 in my explorer, loads of bottom end

 

[4x4junkie]

It's definitely all about gearing with 2.9s.
For 31s I'd suggest 4.56 gears. If you think you might want to get 33s at some point in the future, you might even think about 4.88 gears (I have 5.13s with my 35s and it certainly scoots well enough to merge into and keep up with traffic on the freeway (though I also have a manual trans too).

If there's ABS stuff on the front axle, it shouldn't interfere with the swap if that's what you wind up getting.:icon_thumby:

 

[natmanjoh]

with i the auto i agree, the regearing is top on my list, just expensive. although i'm going to wait until i can afford the regear with lockers so i don't have to do it twice. i keep going back and forth between weather to just stick with the plan of 3'' lift, 31s with 4.56s or to go with the 3'' lift, fender flares, 32s and 4.88s. the 4.0l is in the plans but not anywhere in the near future.