dashboard removal

[johnnybronco]

Anybody ever taken the dash off their B2? I've got a water leak where the firewall meets the wheel well on the passenger side, whenever it rains. I think I need to get back there and seal up the seam.

 

[1bad87five0ranger]

i have had a few completely out and its a job. I started by taking the dash pad then the steering column, glove box, ect. When you get the dash loose you have to make a few disconnections in the wiring that runs through the back side of the dash. There is a mat the follows the firewall all the way across and you have to take just about everything thats bolted in front of the pad off including inner heater box where your heater core goes. Then you can get up there under where the firewall meets the cowl. Just from experience if you have rust under the hood along the seam sealer on the firewall you have bigger problems inside.

 

[johnnybronco]

Thanks for the info. It seems like the inside seams on the driver's side are really rusted bad. I'm wondering if taking off the inner and outer fenders might be easier than the dash and get me the access to where I need to get.
Ever done that?

 

[Shran]

Removing the dash is a total pain. Gotta do what you gotta do though.

I'd rather remove the dash than pull the inner wheel wells, BTW...they're spot welded onto the cab and core support...so you have to re-weld or bolt them back on, total PITA and you end up with a bunch of holes to close up too.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Seems like everyone over-complicates taking the dash out.

A-pillar trim
Door sills
Steering column
Wiring in both kick panels
Then the complete dash assembly

4 screws along the windshield
2 screws on the trans tunnel
1 screw in the park brake bracket
1 screw in the PS kick panel

Roll the dash backwards, unhook the remaining wiring, then pull it out of the door of your choice.

With my 18v 1/4" impact in hand, I can have the dash out of my 94 xlt in about 15 minutes, and my 99 EB exploder in about 25 minutes.

Don't over complicate it. The ashtray, radio, HVAC panel, glovebox, 4x4 switch, yeah... They all stay IN the dash. The instrument cluster has to come out to detach the speedo cable. And as you unhook the column, if you actually look you will see, things like the brake switch, the connector comes from the dash harness, so unplug it as the pedals will not be removed, look for other things connected that way. One thing I do to save time, is to leave the column attached to the firewall, unbolt the support let it hang while you work.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ That DOES sound simple, I'll have to try it one day.

Richard

 

[Swepper]

Is the 89 bii same concept on removal

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Is the 89 bii same concept on removal

Yup. Though the early version of this dash, had the radio attached to the trim around the cluster.

Start with the radio, then the trim panel, then the cluster. Remember, all your getting at through the front is the speedo cable.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Swepper]

Ok the reason I'm doing this is that my vent control won't go all the way over its like the cable is kinked or caught on something tried pulling radio to get to it but can't get anywhere hate to have to pull whole dash just for a cable. Ridiculous

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

My old 89 B2 did something like that once. It was the clip that holds the cable to the HVAC panel.

IIRC I fixed it with a ziptie... I think. That was 6yrs ago...

 

[snoranger]

You missed a bolt: (They may have done away with that bolt for 93+ trucks.)

You have to drop the column and remove the 1 bolt straight up from the pedal/column bracket into the dash. Its also the easiest way to disconnect the ign switch.

Few other points:

- For the HVAC cables... Open the glove box all the way, reach inside and disconnect them from the HVAC box. unplug the antenna connector thats staring you in the face at the same time.
- Leave the harness attached to the dash, unhook it at the firewall. Remove the 10mm bolt in the center of the round connector near the brake booster in the engine compartment. Press the 3 tabs in on the other half still in the firewall.
- Unbolt the hood release.
- The inertia switch on the pass side floor board needs to be disconnected.
- E-shift 4x4 trucks have a harness right in the center that goes under the carpet that needs to be disconnected.



The dash really is easy to pull.

 

[snoranger]

Ok the reason I'm doing this is that my vent control won't go all the way over its like the cable is kinked or caught on something tried pulling radio to get to it but can't get anywhere hate to have to pull whole dash just for a cable. Ridiculous

Drop the glove box down past the stops and you can get to the cables.

 

[Swepper]

Thanks. I'll try it later tonight and see how it goes.

 

[magnifico12312]

water comin out of dash

dude your drain holes in your intake might be clogged. Theres a door in the engine bay, open her up and see if theres leafs in there.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

dude your drain holes in your intake might be clogged. Theres a door in the engine bay, open her up and see if theres leafs in there.

Yup... Listen to this guy. Cause other than that, It's a fire hazard if the leaves meet the blower resistor

I found it easiest to pull the blower motor for access.

 

[Swepper]

Ok thanks for the info. Check that out too