duraspark conversion

[mjr46]

so, I 've read that you need to convert the carb to a non feedback style....does anyone have a pic of the feedback style?? I don't see why such would be necessary as almost everything is unplugged from mine anyway, the harness has gotten so bad in mine that the duraspark is out of necessity, I only use this as a plow truck in my community so it's not a daily driver......anyone have any pics or input on such??

here is my B2

 

[RazorBeam]

http://www.broncoiicorral.com/library/2_8_Duraspark.html

 

[The Fonz]

And throw some primer on that poor thing! Looks awesome with a plow in snow:icon_thumby:

 

[mjr46]

http://www.broncoiicorral.com/library/2_8_Duraspark.html

yea, I already had seen all that and called our local autozone they wanted 135.00 for everything ignition related, not sure I want to dump tons of money in this plow truck, I mean you see the pics..lol, the mud terrain tires alone are worth more than the truck.

 

[mjr46]

And throw some primer on that poor thing! Looks awesome with a plow in snow:icon_thumby:

lol...that costs money............believe me I 've thought about painting it a few times, just when you work on cars all day long, sometimes the last thing I want to do is work on my own........but hopefully soon, I'll have a storage shed built and be able to store it inside. that was 2 huge storms back to back we had here in MD in 2010, the first was 17 inches then a few days later 20+ more..........I tell you what, with those chains on the back and 8 bags of sand in the back, it plowed my whole community, those pics are in my yard, I was clearing the yard to get to my wood pile

 

[the_novice]

I don't have a picture of the feedback carburetor because I threw it away. However the feedback carburetor has a metering solenoid that adjusts the air/fuel mixture on the fly. Without input from the computer the carb will run full rich all the time. At least that's how I understand it.

 

[mjr46]

I don't have a picture of the feedback carburetor because I threw it away. However the feedback carburetor has a metering solenoid that adjusts the air/fuel mixture on the fly. Without input from the computer the carb will run full rich all the time. At least that's how I understand it.

my selonoid at the back has been unplugged for years as is had a problem years ago.

 

[the_novice]

Haha mine was plugged in but didn't work for years. I think it should run with duraspark and the old carb. Mine is running without duraspark on the carb from an 82 thunderbird with a 255. I have the parts to finish the conversion but it runs so well that I haven't found the ambition to install them.

 

[mjr46]

Haha mine was plugged in but didn't work for years. I think it should run with duraspark and the old carb. Mine is running without duraspark on the carb from an 82 thunderbird with a 255. I have the parts to finish the conversion but it runs so well that I haven't found the ambition to install them.

got any pics of the motor / set up on that??

 

[the_novice]

No I don't I can get some tomorrow. The carb pretty much just bolted on. The throttle linkage snapped on the side where it did on the original and so did the choke wire. Are there any particular parts you want pictures of?

 

[mjr46]

just the engine from as many top views as you can get

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It will run just fine with the stock carb just a little rich like was said. I often wonder if you can just drill a couple air bleed holes on the top of the venturi cluster to lean out the high speed circuit.

 

[mjr46]

It will run just fine with the stock carb just a little rich like was said. I often wonder if you can just drill a couple air bleed holes on the top of the venturi cluster to lean out the high speed circuit.

when will it run rich the most.....low speed/idle or highway driving?? as long as it'll run decent, I'm fine with that...it's just a plow truck as you can see......I don't need it perfect.

 

[the_novice]

So you'll have to excuse the fact that everything is a mess. This truck is pretty much just band aided together.

I did retain the stock air cleaner.

The truck also has an inline electric fuel pump because the mechanical one died on a Sunday during moose season.

 

[mjr46]

yours looks like mine...held together with tape and a prayer.. lol

 

[kimcrwbr1]

when will it run rich the most.....low speed/idle or highway driving?? as long as it'll run decent, I'm fine with that...it's just a plow truck as you can see......I don't need it perfect.

It will run rich the most if the choke is not fully open. Get some #42 jets and put them in and then adjust the idle air needles out 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Bring it up to normal temp and with a tach or vacuum guage find the highest rpm or vacuum pressure with the idle needles. Make sure the engine is up to temp and the choke is fully open. If you have the stock TFI distributor it will only run at base timing bring the engine to life and convert the ignition. Is the computer still controlling the throttle?

 

[mjr46]

It will run rich the most if the choke is not fully open. Get some #42 jets and put them in and then adjust the idle air needles out 3 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Bring it up to normal temp and with a tach or vacuum guage find the highest rpm or vacuum pressure with the idle needles. Make sure the engine is up to temp and the choke is fully open. If you have the stock TFI distributor it will only run at base timing bring the engine to life and convert the ignition. Is the computer still controlling the throttle?

I'm about to convert it to duraspark here this weekend......all the sensors are unplugged from the carb save the tps as most of the sensors were bad.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?413544-A-Serious-Ethanol-Problem
If you look close where the venturi clustercenter bolt is on both sides are the variable air bleed needles. On the normal 2150 carbs there is two holes for a fixed air bleed for the high speed circuits. I am thinking it wil just turn the feedback carb into a non feedback carb if you just drill two small holes in the top of the venturi cluster. I still cant find a good pic of the non feedback venturi cluster but I will.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

sorry wrong link

 

[kimcrwbr1]

hopefully this works if you scroll down you will see the air bleed holes on the side of the mixing chambers in the cluster
http://search.aol.com/aol/imageDetails?s_it=imageDetails&q=motorcraft+2150+rebuild&v_t=keyword_rollover&b=image?q=motorcraft%202150%20rebuild&s_it=keyword_rollover&ie=UTF-8&VR=3430&oreq=608be1d462314518a3322c08bcf2c6d7&img=http://i453.photobucket.com/albums/qq258/Ristow71/P1010460.jpg&host=http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=101921&width=120&height=90&thumbUrl=http://images-partners-tbn.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTqa6UTl9-kJIOoJnoI6hZagrFSG5lj3vwFKdOK0dTwgMOIZZK3mj43O7k&imgWidth=640&imgHeight=480&imgSize=51928&imgTitle=motorcraft+2150+rebuild