•  

    Click HERE to join our forum and participate in the discussions.

     

e brake line problems on RC 4in lift


spdcrazy

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
173
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
36
Location
Homer, alaska
Vehicle Year
mostly 86
Vehicle
B2
Engine Size
2.9 bored and cammed
ok so i'm installing the Rough Country 4in lift on my b2. got the rear done no problem. now working on the front. but then i started to look around a bit. and it seems that the drivers side e brake line is tighter that it needs to be. any ideas on how to reroute it? or lengthen it? looks like the threaded rod for adjustment is connected to the passenger side.

i got nothing but time but i thought i would post this question while taking a break from the working on the front lift..

here is some teasers by the way





 


B Man

New member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
37
Location
Southeast, Ga.
Vehicle Year
1994
Vehicle
Mazda
Engine Size
4.0L
If it is the rear brake lines you are talking about, i noticed the same thing at full flex. I took the longest metal bushing that came with the shocks and shimmed the brakes up with it on the rear differential. I got a bolt a little longer than the bushing and pulled the brake line up off the rear diff. housing and stuck the bushing inbetween the lines and diff. and bolted it back in the stock place. It only moves the line up about 1.5" but made a world of difference when flexed. I even installed some 2" rear lift shackles after that and it still has a little play in the lines flexed.

Mine is a 94' mazda but I believe that your lines are run the same way.

Hope this helped
 

spdcrazy

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
173
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
36
Location
Homer, alaska
Vehicle Year
mostly 86
Vehicle
B2
Engine Size
2.9 bored and cammed
i'll have to look at my brake lines when its all said and done to see if i have that same problem. but as of right now, its the parking brake lines. so i don't know what to do. might have to just remove it for now since it looks like i'll be starting another job on wed. :fie:
 

metalmacguyver

Yeah, I built that.
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
190
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
36
Location
Plymouth MA home, Buzzards Bay MA
Vehicle Year
1997, 1994
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
4.0, 7.3
Instead of wrapping it around the spring like it is now, you can just run it straight forward. it will give you plenty of slack.
 

michowski

New member
Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Messages
161
Reaction score
0
Points
0
I took the bracket off the frame, and removed the spring and my cable is fine now.
 

spdcrazy

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
173
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
36
Location
Homer, alaska
Vehicle Year
mostly 86
Vehicle
B2
Engine Size
2.9 bored and cammed
you think i should run it on the outside of the leaf? it won't get caught in anything?
 

metalmacguyver

Yeah, I built that.
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
190
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
36
Location
Plymouth MA home, Buzzards Bay MA
Vehicle Year
1997, 1994
Vehicle
Ford
Engine Size
4.0, 7.3
That is where I have my cable and so far I have had no problems. I moved it there when I had to replace one of the cables because it was siezing up.
 

B Man

New member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
37
Location
Southeast, Ga.
Vehicle Year
1994
Vehicle
Mazda
Engine Size
4.0L
I missed the "e" brake part.....
 

spdcrazy

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
173
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Age
36
Location
Homer, alaska
Vehicle Year
mostly 86
Vehicle
B2
Engine Size
2.9 bored and cammed
no worries b man.

so hows the lift working for ya michowski? i got the rear done, and the front is all in pieces, tomorrow i'm hoping to get it all done. the rivets are a PITA to take out. my angle grinder seems to work ok, but its kinda big and bulky.. and i haven't a clue how i'm gonna get the rivets off for the passenger pivot point.


and the ebrake line issue is solved i think. we will see after i get it on the trail tho.
 

Top