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How to remove clutch and break pedal??


albertabronco

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ok so im getting all that i need to do a mitsu swap into my 87 bronco. the tranny and all parts are comin out of a 85 now i have everything out that i needed to get out other then the pedals. i took the c clip off the one end and tried sliding the clutch pedal to the left to slide it out for the life of me i cant get it out it doesnt go to the left far enough am i missing something or am i just too stupid??
 


Cherrybomb

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Im having the same problem with my 89 ranger. Im thinking about cutting out that bracket with the air grinder since the truck is totaled anyways. Ill let you know if i figure anything out tomorrow. did you take the emergency brake asseembly off? I think it says something about that in the haynes book.
 

kunar

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pull the whole bracket down. youll have to pull the steering column and the brake booster. theres the 4 nuts that hold the brake booster that also hold that bracket, and theres 2 (i think) nuts or bolts behind the steering column that hold the bracket to the dash. thats the only way i know of to do it. when i did the swap i got mine apart and got the old stuff out but couldnt get the new stuff back in. i know its a little extra work but its worth it.
 
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Have you considered simply removing the entire pedal bracket?

Though you have to do so after removing the steering column...

And the pedal support is also held in with the nuts that mount the brake power booster to the firewall.

It really isn't as bad as it sounds, it usually takes me 15min or so to pull ta pedal support out of a donor vehicle in the junkyard, but then again I've had a lot of practice ...

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albertabronco

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yeah i figure that will be my plan of action tomorrow also is there a kill for the clutch start switch i hate having to press it down when i know im not stupid enough to start my car in gear lol
 
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Ok, All the Rangers in a given year use more or less the same wiring harness.

On the auto tranmission trucks there is a JUMPER to bypass the wire that would (on a manual trans truck) connect to the clutch safety switch.

you can get this from an auto transmission Ranger or bronco2.It's basically just the female connector shell with a loop of wire.

To be honest I consider it important to bypass the clutch safety on a Gen1,
because on the '83-87 RBV's the clutch switch is actuated by a seperate PLASTIC
pushrod that comes off the pedal and works a switch mounted to to the firewall/cowl

This pushrod frequently breaks leaving the vehicle stuck.

On the '88-up The switch is mounted coaxially on the master cylinder pushrod


The hard part of getting the pedal support out is getting the column out.

The hard part of getting the column out is getting the three sheet metal
screws out of the firewall, they "hide" behind the sound proofing.

And on your truck thay may have either 10mm, but more likely 3/8" heads
(I usually take these out with an 18" or 24" extension and a swivel socket.)

the brake booster can have either 14mm or 15mm nuts.

Pay attention to the way the insulating washers are oriented where the
brake booster pushrod is attached to the pin on the brake pedal, the washers insulate the brake light switch from unintentional connection to ground

BTW, the spring clip that holds that all together only needs to be grabbed
with a pair of needle nose pliers and PULLED.

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Cherrybomb

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I took the E-brake assembly off and got the wiring harness over the pedal and it came out.
 

Mutant Pony

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Yup. I had to push pretty hard against the main harness but it did come out and the new pedal went in without removing the column.
 

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