How U-Joints Work ?

[Dishtowel]

D28 =

 

[Boggin]

ok thanks so where is this located anyways? thanks

 

[Jspafford]

D28 =

Your running a 5.0L and expect it to stand up to lower gears, bigger tires, and a double dose of HP?

Wheel the 28 until it breaks, then spend the money on an upgrade.. why toss out parts that still work?

 

[BlackBII]

Your running a 5.0L and expect it to stand up to lower gears, bigger tires, and a double dose of HP?

Wheel the 28 until it breaks, then spend the money on an upgrade.. why toss out parts that still work?

Apparently, One is already shot on Boggins BII.

I was able to blow 3 u joints on a D28 with a 2.8 Liter and 3.73's. It's not too hard.

 

[Dishtowel]

Your running a 5.0L and expect it to stand up to lower gears, bigger tires, and a double dose of HP?

Wheel the 28 until it breaks, then spend the money on an upgrade.. why toss out parts that still work?

I did that with the 2.9, and 3.73s. When I stepped up the engine I stepped up to the D35. I'm not a dunce, neither are you.

Apparently, One is already shot on Boggins BII.

I was able to blow 3 u joints on a D28 with a 2.8 Liter and 3.73's. It's not too hard.

exactly.

 

[Boggin]

ok so where is the U-joint in Dishtowels pic located exactly? *noob when it comes to u-joints, though I was studing them all night*

 

[Dishtowel]

This u-joint is on the same axis as the ball joints. If there was not a u-joint here you would not be able to steer. When you are driving straight down the road he is experiencing MINIMAL angles. When you steer tight corners he sees the angle.

 

[Boggin]

ok thanks alot man I know how where they are and how to get at them now, thanks

 

[Boggin]

so I studied/searched my friggin ASS off, to come up with this, these are the only ones that will fit, its gotta be Outside Left Front Axle, thats what I need, and these are the only 2 that come up, and the greaseable one is 1 dollar more, what one do you guys say?
http://store.summitracing.com/Compare.asp?Ntt=bronco+2+u+joints&N=700+0&rsview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch&RemoveSKU=PCN-369
thanks alot I would of been completely stuck on u-joints if it werent for you guys **espically Dishtowel, he teaches me everything you can think of about trucks, thanks alot, appreciate it alot :icon_cheers:**

 

[Boggin]

what one do you guys say?
http://store.summitracing.com/Compare.asp?Ntt=bronco+2+u+joints&N=700+0&rsview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch&RemoveSKU=PCN-369

bumpity, I am pretty sure of getting the truck tonight and I wanna order asap

 

[Jspafford]

Non Greasable.

 

[Shran]

^ x2

You're gonna tear the D28 up eventually anyway. Just get the non greasable and forget about it.

 

[Boggin]

ok thanks alot guys

 

[bobbywalter]

on the d28 i use greasable ones. the zerks are usually needle points iin the cap. these are the same as the 1210 units found on the rear of older ext cabs if you cant find an application.



best way is to weld them up/cap to hoop(ear). the weld beefs up the hoops. go slow and easy and dip in oil to cool. grease the hell out of them and get it awn.


when welded extra beefy super style you have to x notch the knuckle too.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

I used non-greasable joints in my old B2's D28.
Only because they would snap, or throw a cap and ruin my shafts, before they ever needed to be re-greased.

Boggin you should do the snapring upgrade
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm
Don't weld the U-joints on a D28. The cross/bodys of the wee-bitty joints snap way too often. Grinding out those welds is a PITA.

BTW, don't weld the caps on the loop, weld them on the meaty side. Sure your thought process is to dip it in oil to harden it, but that only hardens the surface, that's why it's called "Case Hardening". Applying heat to that loop, expecially if you go slow, will weaken the hell out of the weakest part of the yoke. Can you say "Snap"