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New guy, new project: 1988 BII wheeler


leumas12

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Well still not a lot to update, still working on spring hangers and reworking the rear truss.

I did look at the front axle though. With the height of the truss, theres only about 3" between it and the frame rail. That means that this thing will pretty much be riding on the bump stops and not really have any uptravel. Obviously this wont be enough. To address this problem i plan on raising the truck up about 1.5". Still isnt going to be too tall. Also, i think i am going to notch the frame about 2.5". Here is what im thinking:



The vertical line is my approximate axle center line. The other line is the cut im thinking of making. This is going to give me another 2.5" of clearance above the truss, increasing the overall clearance from 3" to 7". Of course the front portion of the frame will be boxed also to make up for any lost strength. Thats about it, hopefully i will have more to update tomorrow. Thanks guys!

Sam
 


spaz1879

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That seems like a good idea to me if your going to box the front of the frame. I dont think it would hurt having more clearance.:icon_cheers:
 

leumas12

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Thanks alot guys :icon_thumby:

The rear axle is all done. Moved the spring perches in so that now they sit directly under the frame rails and shortened the truss to fit.

Heres how it started:



And here it is after the change:



By being shorter its less effective in keeping the housing straight but still will do its job in keeping the tubes from spinning. Leaf springs are ready to bolt up so whenever the weather around here permits (we've had 50% of our average ANNUAL rainfall in about 2 weeks). Hopefully this week/weekend i can get the springs bolted up and figure out the hangers. Thanks guys

Sam
 

spaz1879

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to solve your problem i did some reading you can just get a bar from the bottom of the axle to a cossmember that is on the frame to reduce the "axle wrap" (which is the changing of the pinion angle) incase some people didnt know. :D This can cause breaking of yokes driveshafts u-joints ect.

i know you might not want to go with this design because you might lose some ground clearnce but i figured i would shoot this out there to provide some support. Hurry and finish so i can nominate this BEasT for TOTM:headbang:



<http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/>
 

leumas12

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Thanks for the pic :icon_thumby: I think first i will try that BamBar that i posted because of, like you said, better ground clearance. And thanks for the plan to nominate it as TOTM! been wondering if anyone would do that :icon_bounceblue: haha
 

spaz1879

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yea im not sure you mentioned anything about a bambar??:icon_confused: also if you wouldnt mind to tell us all what that might be? :icon_idea: how about you get-er-done so it can be nomminated:headbang:
 

leumas12

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Oh did i forget to post that thing up? Here it is:



Its from http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/bambar/, not my picture. The link explains everything about it as well as how to build it. Its pretty cool, doesnt interfere with ground clearance or axle articulation like most anit-wrap systems do. Plus since i already have all the materials for it except for bolts, this thing is gonna cost me next to nothin :icon_thumby:

EDIT: Hooray for my 100th post! :D
 

spaz1879

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:headbang:that is the best solution that i have seen for an antiwrap bar props to who ever desgined that :headbang: yea not to many materials to build that are you gonna go with the solid bushings or the 2 seprate ones? if i where to do it i would mostlikly use the soild one that way seems like the easier route to fabing it up.:icon_welder:
 

leumas12

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are you gonna go with the solid bushings or the 2 seprate ones? if i where to do it i would mostlikly use the soild one that way seems like the easier route to fabing it up.:icon_welder:
I have lots of extra bushings in DOM tube so im doing 2 separate ones on the bottom but yeah, one long one would be best
 

Kyle M.

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Could you run that on the front too? That would be nice so your front axel won't slide around as you flex it like it would with a track bar...it would stay centered.

you are going leaf springs right, why do you need that at all?
 
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leumas12

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You could use it on the front but i dont have the room and wont need it with the radius arm setup because the radius arms are solid mounted to the frame and cannot bend.

Devices like this and other anti-wrap systems are used to combat axle wrap which is a common problem maintly with leaf springs because they are a large spring, and therefore flexible. When torque is applied to the axle the axle will try and turn, therefore bending the leaf springs. Heres a good video of what im talking about:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv6HZVv4GUo

This device keeps the axle housing from turning and keeps the springs from bending. This doesnt help keep the axle centered under the truck, that will be the work of the panhard bar which i only need for the front since leaf springs hold the axle centered in the rear.

Made the spring hangers today, hopefully the springs can go in this weekend although sunday i will be at TruckFest getting myself a winch for this thing :D
 

spaz1879

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wow that was brutal for his truck:headbang: i thought it was funny he bent his bar, but that was some insane wrap. :shok:i have no idea what he was doing to make it flex out like that and get a good camera angle?
 

kevinsranger

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wow that was brutal for his truck:headbang: i thought it was funny he bent his bar, but that was some insane wrap. :shok:i have no idea what he was doing to make it flex out like that and get a good camera angle?

im betting he is power braking it to put force like that.
 

spaz1879

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that is what i was kinda thinking +a doubler? maybe
 

leumas12

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Could happen with the front wedged up against an obstacle. Super low gearing probably helps too. But yeah great example of what can happen with soft flexy springs and no anti-wrap system :shok:
 

martin

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It's surprising how easy it is to get that kind of axle wrap, especially if you have an auto.
 

leumas12

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Got the front spring hangers in today. The hangers were cut from square tubing and i used some .25" plate to beef em up a bit. Also welded a washer to the inside so that they fit the springs tighter.

Here they are:



Welded on the frame:



Weld shots :icon_welder::









Also made the shackles. $5 of scrap metal and 1 hour of machining and they are ready to go. 3/8 plate, 5" center to center. And yes the holes are different sizes, 5/8" at the frame and 1/2" at the leaves.



Thats what was done today, rear axle MIGHT go in tomorrow :icon_thumby:. Thanks guys!

Sam
 

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