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Not Another CTOR Build




CheapThrillB2

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Time to dig the Doubler out and get it reinstalled
 

CheapThrillB2

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Doubler is reinstalled and almost done :)
 

CheapThrillB2

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112.50311680000002:1 :icon_welder:
 

compleckz

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haha the hub break is like... *click*.. was that a stock 60 hub? first break with it?

lookin good
 

CheapThrillB2

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I just can't seem to get the doubler just right, I seem to always have problems with the crawl box in 2hi.
 

CheapThrillB2

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Well my winch has been really hard to free spool and LOUD, so I removed it from the truck and brought it with me to work. Complete tear down. Found the bearing in the elec motor at the end of where the brushes are was seized. So drove out to Grainger and picked up a new bearing for $10. Cleaned everything. Reinstalled all components. Now it free spools good but is still very loud. I couldn't get the entire center section torn down (where the cable spools). The loud noise sounds to be coming from the internals to that part.

Also bought a tri-gauge set. My last outing was in some deep water and my dash didn't agree. Having all kinds of gauge issues. So time to just by-pass those altogether.

Now I just need to get my doubler shifter and issue figured out for the weekend.
 

CheapThrillB2

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What troubles?
I put my doubler back together. And every time I have used it I always seem to have a problem with the low range box. When I am not in double low it seems to pop out of engagement in the crawl box. Its sounds exactly like putting a manual into gear without depressing the clutch (the gear grind sound). I have to have the crawl box in the 2hi position to get power transfer to the tcase. If its in the 4hi position its acts as if its in neutral, I would have figured 2hi and 4hi position would act the same. Double low seems to work fine and holds position. I seem to only have a problem holding 2hi. It doesn't matter how I adjust the linkage its always the same result.

I was thinking maybe the doubler shaft isn't sitting just right in the crawl box. Like maybe i need to put a spacer between the shaft and the tcase input to hold the doubler shaft further forward into the front gear set of the doubler?
 

CheapThrillB2

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Doublers back out

I tore it down tonight. It appears the rod the shift fork rides on was misaligned to the doubler plate. So it sat at a slight angle instead of straight up/down.

I found a small steel sleeve that fit tight over the rod, so i welded the sleeve to the doubler plate to relocate the rod. Hope tomorrow to get it reassembled, installed, and tested.



Well my instrument cluster was all messed up lol......it would read way over on the oil pressure and the temp gauge was always running really hot to overheating most the time. Fuel gauge didn't read accurate (way to full). And my dash lights were always on regardless if the switch was on.

So I bought a tir-gauge set (oil, coolant, amps). Installed and hooked up the oil, coolant. With the oil, coolant sensors unplugged my other gauges in the cluster now work fine :teehee:. And I have 40-60 psi all the time and temp never went over 180.
 

CheapThrillB2

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The very out edge of this section of the gear had adverse wear, must have been where the gears were grinding.



Pic is not of my stuff, just the only pic i could find quickly of the front gear set.
 

CheapThrillB2

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The rod the shift fork rides on was misaligned with the doubler plate. Repositioned on the plate and it seems to work flawlessly.

Looking at buying a new tow rig, got this for a 48-72 hour test drive this weekend. Going on a 350 mile round trip wheeling and using the truck to see if I llike it.

 

lepp1892

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looks good, How did you like Rocks and Valley offroad? I'm thinking about taking a trip up there sometime soon...
 

CheapThrillB2

May 2010 OTOTM
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Engine Size
soon 5.8L
awesome and the hospitality was top notch
 

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