oil pressure guage

[FCXBronco2]

well i was flushin my radiator and i somehow messed up my oil pressure guage im not really worried about it because its always been acting messed up so i want to get an after market one but ive never done it before so thats what i was wondering is how hard are they to install? oh yeah and i have an 84 bronco 2

 

[Jspafford]

If your referring to the in dash guage, there is a single wire that runs it. It's on the side of the block, it slips down over a threaded stud.

Chances are you knocked it loose.

A mechanical guage is much better. They only take a couple hours to install and are WELL worth it in my opinion.

 

[FCXBronco2]

nah i didnt want one that was ment to go back in my dash i was just talkin about one that i could mount somewhere else whats the difference between that and a mechanical guage

 

[cocoasranger]

The factory gauge is really only an idiot light that has a pointer rather than a light bulb. A mechanical gauge is the most accurate since it does not depend on the health of the electrical system for an accurate reading. Even an electrical oil pressure gauge is a great improvement over the factory gauge.

If you check the Chilton manual it shows that the stock gauge uses a resister to give about a 50% gauge reading if the sensor detects any pressure.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

actually, the stock gauge on his '84 is a true pressure gauge, not an idiot light...it just doesnt have numbers on the scale so it still isnt real accurate.

but anyway, installing a mechanical gauge is a cinch. if you want your factory gauge to still work (or have the option to work), you need to buy a "T" fitting (1/4" NPT i believe). if not you can screw the mechanical gauge sender right into the block. if memory serves, the pressure port on the 2.9 is on the drivers side, near the front of the engine (someone correct me if im wrong here).

 

[cocoasranger]

Thanks for the correction, Wicked Sludge. I assumed that Ford would not downgrade from a real oil gauge in 84 to a fake one like in my 89. Hope they are happy with the $1.37 they saved cheapening up the gauge..

 

[kevinsranger]

thats the next thing i gotta do with mine, only thing i dont like is most of them come with plastic line to run the oil, i just dont trust it.

 

[MAKG]

Thanks for the correction, Wicked Sludge. I assumed that Ford would not downgrade from a real oil gauge in 84 to a fake one like in my 89. Hope they are happy with the $1.37 they saved cheapening up the gauge..

I doubt cost was the issue, or it would have just been a light, not a gauge.

I suspect it's the clueless owner factor. "OMIGOD! The oil pressure is far lower at idle than at highway speed! Is my engine F***ed?"

It's the same reason the temperature gauge was slowed down enough so that it didn't see normal thermostat cycling.

 

[shizzy]

I doubt cost was the issue, or it would have just been a light, not a gauge.

I suspect it's the clueless owner factor. "OMIGOD! The oil pressure is far lower at idle than at highway speed! Is my engine F***ed?"

It's the same reason the temperature gauge was slowed down enough so that it didn't see normal thermostat cycling.

that actually is the reason. too many people were complaining about "erratic" oil pressure.

 

[red85]

thats the next thing i gotta do with mine, only thing i dont like is most of them come with plastic line to run the oil, i just dont trust it.

What's not to trust? If that line is routed clear of anything hot or that can mutilate the line you'll be fine. On a BII with a 2.8 there are plenty of safe routes to take.

 

[Jspafford]

I've been using the plastic tubing with the kit for over a year now. I routed it as far from the exhaust as possible, but believe me, it still gets hot under there.

Put a grommet where it comes through the firewall though.

 

[shizzy]

What's not to trust? If that line is routed clear of anything hot or that can mutilate the line you'll be fine. On a BII with a 2.8 there are plenty of safe routes to take.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/41055/10002/-1

for an extra $12.99 its a no brainer for me. I have had the same copper line on my Oldsmobile for 14 years now.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

ive been using the same nylon tubing in the ranger for 3 years with no problems (it has developed a small seep at the fitting on the gauge...need to take care of that before it starts to drip on my carpet).

ive been running nylon tubing in the escort for a few months now. i kinked the crap out of it while routing it (i was..ah.."flustered" thanks to fords sharp plastic edges behind the escorts dash ) and no leaks so far.

 

[woodyedmiston]

Copper Line

Use copper line. Period. Buy it at the hardware store - cheap insurance.

 

[Bob Ayers]

Use copper line. Period. Buy it at the hardware store - cheap insurance.

Very bad idea, copper will crack if it is flexed repeatedly!!

 

[MAKG]

I used nylon on the former Bronco II, and my Chevy has a copper line in it original from the factory (and yes, the engine has been out).

The world will not end in a catastrophic earthquake with either one.

So relax a bit, put in what's easy to find (hint: nylon) and try not to overengineer this for faults that will never occur.

Even the copper ones will yield BS if they are routed on the exhaust manifold.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Very bad idea, copper will crack if it is flexed repeatedly!!

So will plastic, or even rubber... with no real movement possible if it is routed decent aside from the engine torquing there shouldn't be much flexing going on.

I used the nylon tubing that came with the gauge in my Ranger, a year later it is still fine... I will add that if you don't quite get the fitting quite right on the back of the gauge it will make a heck of a mess, thank god for rubber flooring. I routed it thru a grommet in the firewall, and taped in in a hunk of yellow small engine fuel line (about two inches worth on each side of the grommet) just to be safe.

 

[woodyedmiston]

Come on Bob - how much is it going to flex in this application? Copper work hardens and cracks and that's why you see a lot of power plant and single cylinder applications that have several loops in the line to absorb the wear. But copper is exactly the right thing to use in this application. The reason fittings leak with plastic is that it flows and you can't really tighten anything on it without it eventually leaking. Plastic is prone to heat cracking, ozone damage, and generally just looks cheap. Yes plastic is pretty durable, but copper is superior.

If you want bulletproof, go to Earls and get a stainless steel braided hose.

On the other hand, if MAKG is suggesting not to get too uptight about something I guess I've gone too far. -)

 

[Beef52751]

what size braided hose do you need??? (autometer gauge)
Thanks
Beef