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ok so what's the trick?


LittleHorse

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Trying to put my M5OD back into the Bronco II, can't seem to find the magic trick it takes to get the bellhousing over the exhaust. I've taken it out (twice actually) and am trying to do it in reverse but it's just not working. The bellhousing is hitting the tunnel at the top and it's not even close to getting over the crossover pipe, especially on the right side.

I've been wrestling around with it for an hour and have accomplished nothing other than finding new and interesting ways to combine four letter words.
 


ati190

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Loosen body mount bolts, and jack the passengers side up only.Doing this will give it about 2 extra inches of room, between the seem and bellhousing which is plenty. Or it takes some force to bend the offending flange over...

thats the trick, i just did this yesterday... but becareful if those bolts are rusty...

ati190
 

LittleHorse

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ugh, I was really hoping that wasn't going to be the answer I got. I've considered this and they're rusty enough that I might as well buy a body lift 'cause I'm gonna need to buy new bolts anyway.

Not to mention I don't have an air compressor to power my impact wrench.
 

LittleHorse

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I'm to a point where I feel like everything I could do to make this easier is just going to open up a can of worms. One is the body lift idea, the other is trying to remove the y-pipe. I already tried the y-pipe, the bolts are rusted solid so I'll either end up snapping at least one and still not be able to get it off, or I'll saw it off and have to pay a muffler shop to weld it back together.

I was hoping to have this thing running some time this week, and the body mount of y-pipe options will set me back by a week or more if I have to go that route. My wife and I are sharing a car right now and it's a huge PITA.
 

metalmacguyver

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Take a sawzal and cut slots into the seem where the firewall and floor pan meet. Fold it over with a BFH and you will be able to get it back in with much less effort.
 

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Take a sawzal and cut slots into the seem where the firewall and floor pan meet. Fold it over with a BFH and you will be able to get it back in with much less effort.
Yup, this is the trick. It worked for me.
 

LittleHorse

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ok I'll try that. I'll have to get to it first...I've got the transmission supported in a complex arrangement of crossmember, motorcycle jack, and a ratchet strap. It's almost funny. But not quite.
 

Nhaz

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Ive found over the years pf repairing my crappy hondas (ive had many) its best bust the bolt on the exhaust at a location where you can fix it then have it bust where you can't.

I can't name the number of bolts ive snapped off over the years. Its a gift. even good looking bolts like to snap on me. I have even snapped off a pressure plate bolt off my mustang Well below its torque specs. it was a pita to get the rest of the bolt out. the clutch change that was taking me 2 hours. took 8 hours.

My favorite bolt recently was the seat bolt on the ranger the one on the drivers side holding the seat upright. Its gotta be 1/2 of a inch thick and it just snapped on me on regular roads. Eventful getting the truck stopped after the seat fell backwards while I was doing 60.
 

LittleHorse

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yep, sounds like my luck. So far I've only broken two bolts on this truck, and they were the rearward bolts holding the back seat bracket down to the floor.

The rest I've only avoided because I've been very selective in what bolts I will and will not attempt to take off. Leaving the exhaust on was a decision I made before pulling the tranny, knowing full well that if I try, I will soon wish I hadn't.
 

Jspafford

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Do as mentioned above. I took mine out and put it back in without so much as putting a wrench on a body mount or exhaust flange.
 
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On a Bronco2 it might very well be easier to drop the radius arm brackets.

this will allow the Y-pipe to drop further.

AD
 

LittleHorse

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On a Bronco2 it might very well be easier to drop the radius arm brackets.

this will allow the Y-pipe to drop further.

AD
good point.

I went at that body flange cutting a few slits in it last night, but I don't have a BFH that's FB enough to bend it over sufficiently, so I'm gonna pick one up today and give it a whack this evening. If that doesn't work I'll work on the radius arm brackets. Those don't appear to be a severe rust problem, because the engine's been leaking so much oil on them that they're impervious to water.
 

LittleHorse

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got it! Hammering down that body flange did the trick. Thanks a million dudes.
 
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usually on the ground i just smash the tail up to the floor and twist it in, thats with the engine lowered back to where it is sitting some weight on the exaust, but you have to have it on your chest to do it that way easily, i hold the back up with my knee and do the front with my arms..


if i am not in the mood for that, you did the alternative....but i am too lazy to cut and hammer usually, but age is changing that.:D
 

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