barbefunkoramaque
New member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
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- Vehicle Year
- 1988
- Vehicle
- Ford
First Thanks jstrfford for the help.
Funny you are just getting married and when I was on my first marriage the first car we bought new together was a 1989 Ford Bronco II XLT 2.9 Manual with Manual Hubs and 4x4 with your exact color scheme. We lived in the Dundee area of Omaha too!
Last night I said there were no marks but the steel wool was not enough. You were right... I sanded a little when the marks were on the underside and there it was. The marks are 2 degrees apart.
Now I warmed it up today - removed the spout, timed it to 10 degrees on the dot. it ran fine. hooked up the spout and it was "quite a bit advanced" as KUNTZ says. Maybe bouncing round 27 or so.
But on the road still pre ignition chatter at 3/4 throttle. Although I ran 210 or so temp (we are in the mid 70s here) even not laying into the throttle much cuz I hate that sound and I know what its doing.
Now I got back home, shut the engine off, pulled the spout and checked the timing again... still on the 10 degree mark.
SO here are some other details...
I just redid the gasket because as i mentioned before I had a coolant leak through the reservoir and my DAD when he was alive insisted he didnt need new head bolts.
I have no AC but the condenser is still there. I have bypassed the heater core because it leaked and I am waiting for the part to come in.
The fan seems to be fine but what do I compare it with.
I have good flow in the radiator and I cannot find any cold spots or losing any coolant.
I have removed the thermostat when I flushed it before I found the head gasket leak.
There is pre-ig chatter but the timing is spot on.
I had to remove the distrib of course and marked it but I had a fuel leak and I forgot and turned the engine over to test for leaks and lost the timing.
I used the examples in here to return the timing by watching therockers of 5 and 1. Apparently I got it because it runs. ONe question is... what if I am off a tooth? Does that Impact my timing reading
Now that I think about it i used the 30 degree mark (which I thought was TDC mark to drop the distributor in. This is still the condition as I only found out yesterday it is not TDC.
Idle is 800 when warm. Or when warm after a few seconds starting.
I have a slight valve chatter that I did not have before (the heads were off for two weeks before reassembly) but when I laid out the pushrods in order I taped them to a board and my son pulled the number 5 pair out and it was a fifty/fifty shot how they went back. I have not adjusted but plan to do so. Plenty of oil pressure.
Could a water coolant sensor be bad thus advancing the timing as if it were cold?
Could it be because I lined up the 30 degree mark with the TDC pointer and dropped the dist in. It seems if this were affecting it- definately would run rough.
What do yall think
Popdaddy
Funny you are just getting married and when I was on my first marriage the first car we bought new together was a 1989 Ford Bronco II XLT 2.9 Manual with Manual Hubs and 4x4 with your exact color scheme. We lived in the Dundee area of Omaha too!
Last night I said there were no marks but the steel wool was not enough. You were right... I sanded a little when the marks were on the underside and there it was. The marks are 2 degrees apart.
Now I warmed it up today - removed the spout, timed it to 10 degrees on the dot. it ran fine. hooked up the spout and it was "quite a bit advanced" as KUNTZ says. Maybe bouncing round 27 or so.
But on the road still pre ignition chatter at 3/4 throttle. Although I ran 210 or so temp (we are in the mid 70s here) even not laying into the throttle much cuz I hate that sound and I know what its doing.
Now I got back home, shut the engine off, pulled the spout and checked the timing again... still on the 10 degree mark.
SO here are some other details...
I just redid the gasket because as i mentioned before I had a coolant leak through the reservoir and my DAD when he was alive insisted he didnt need new head bolts.
I have no AC but the condenser is still there. I have bypassed the heater core because it leaked and I am waiting for the part to come in.
The fan seems to be fine but what do I compare it with.
I have good flow in the radiator and I cannot find any cold spots or losing any coolant.
I have removed the thermostat when I flushed it before I found the head gasket leak.
There is pre-ig chatter but the timing is spot on.
I had to remove the distrib of course and marked it but I had a fuel leak and I forgot and turned the engine over to test for leaks and lost the timing.
I used the examples in here to return the timing by watching therockers of 5 and 1. Apparently I got it because it runs. ONe question is... what if I am off a tooth? Does that Impact my timing reading
Now that I think about it i used the 30 degree mark (which I thought was TDC mark to drop the distributor in. This is still the condition as I only found out yesterday it is not TDC.
Idle is 800 when warm. Or when warm after a few seconds starting.
I have a slight valve chatter that I did not have before (the heads were off for two weeks before reassembly) but when I laid out the pushrods in order I taped them to a board and my son pulled the number 5 pair out and it was a fifty/fifty shot how they went back. I have not adjusted but plan to do so. Plenty of oil pressure.
Could a water coolant sensor be bad thus advancing the timing as if it were cold?
Could it be because I lined up the 30 degree mark with the TDC pointer and dropped the dist in. It seems if this were affecting it- definately would run rough.
What do yall think
Popdaddy