Overheating - Advance - PreIGnition

[barbefunkoramaque]

First Thanks jstrfford for the help.

Funny you are just getting married and when I was on my first marriage the first car we bought new together was a 1989 Ford Bronco II XLT 2.9 Manual with Manual Hubs and 4x4 with your exact color scheme. We lived in the Dundee area of Omaha too!

Last night I said there were no marks but the steel wool was not enough. You were right... I sanded a little when the marks were on the underside and there it was. The marks are 2 degrees apart.

Now I warmed it up today - removed the spout, timed it to 10 degrees on the dot. it ran fine. hooked up the spout and it was "quite a bit advanced" as KUNTZ says. Maybe bouncing round 27 or so.

But on the road still pre ignition chatter at 3/4 throttle. Although I ran 210 or so temp (we are in the mid 70s here) even not laying into the throttle much cuz I hate that sound and I know what its doing.

Now I got back home, shut the engine off, pulled the spout and checked the timing again... still on the 10 degree mark.

SO here are some other details...

I just redid the gasket because as i mentioned before I had a coolant leak through the reservoir and my DAD when he was alive insisted he didnt need new head bolts.

I have no AC but the condenser is still there. I have bypassed the heater core because it leaked and I am waiting for the part to come in.

The fan seems to be fine but what do I compare it with.

I have good flow in the radiator and I cannot find any cold spots or losing any coolant.

I have removed the thermostat when I flushed it before I found the head gasket leak.

There is pre-ig chatter but the timing is spot on.

I had to remove the distrib of course and marked it but I had a fuel leak and I forgot and turned the engine over to test for leaks and lost the timing.

I used the examples in here to return the timing by watching therockers of 5 and 1. Apparently I got it because it runs. ONe question is... what if I am off a tooth? Does that Impact my timing reading

Now that I think about it i used the 30 degree mark (which I thought was TDC mark to drop the distributor in. This is still the condition as I only found out yesterday it is not TDC.

Idle is 800 when warm. Or when warm after a few seconds starting.

I have a slight valve chatter that I did not have before (the heads were off for two weeks before reassembly) but when I laid out the pushrods in order I taped them to a board and my son pulled the number 5 pair out and it was a fifty/fifty shot how they went back. I have not adjusted but plan to do so. Plenty of oil pressure.

Could a water coolant sensor be bad thus advancing the timing as if it were cold?

Could it be because I lined up the 30 degree mark with the TDC pointer and dropped the dist in. It seems if this were affecting it- definately would run rough.

What do yall think

Popdaddy

 

[Bob Ayers]

If you were 1 tooth off, you might be able to turn the distributer enough to get the timing correct (10 degrees BTDC).

 

[BRO1]

Mine is doing same thing as barbefunkoramaque is and the timing is set dead on.What could cause this?
1988 2.9 five speed.
Thanks
BRO1

 

[Psychopete]

Do you mean 1 tooth on the distributor, or the camshaft & crank?

The air temperature sensor has some bearing on timing, it might be worth while to test it:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=29

That site also has instructions for testing the coolant temperature that's pretty similar to the air temp sensor, except would probably be a little more accurate since you know what temp your engine is running (aftermarket gauge?).

Pulled codes?

Pete

 

[barbefunkoramaque]

Turd Polishing

Oh My God that made me laugh til i cried. Turd Polishing.

Okay, I aggree... I was sitting on the pot and realized that theoretically if the hook up was not in the way you could feasibly just drop the distributor in and tune it to TDC simply by turing... so one tooth off is unlikely to cause a problem as it is running in basically the same position.

Now... remember when I said that when I got back that the timing after unplugging the spout again was still on 10 TDC.

It was. BUT I let the engine cool. Started it again, spout hooked up. Ran Rough because it was cold I guess... I let it heat up to just under 160 degrees, checked timing (27 degrees advanced or so) then WHILE IT WAS RUNNING popped out the spout connector (idle dropped off) AND decided to check the timing. It was like at 18 Degrees!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now I can Understand knocking the timing out of wack when I tightened down, or when I drove... why is it different from sitting for a few hours?

Makes sense though... engine sounded too advanced, got hot like it was advanced, smelled like it was advanced. Hmm I have been known to be full of shit too. Maybe something happened. I will wait until tomorrow and retime. I have to pull the covers off to tighten the valves like I said so let me know if anything in there makes a difference.

Let me know guys.

I'll give you one of my secret recipes.

http://www.youtube.com/user/PopdaddysBBQ

 

[Big Jim M]

If it is like most other engines the 10* should be checked while the engine is HOT and at idle.. If the engine is at fast idle the timing should be greater than the 10*. If the engine is truly 8* advanced over the standard it will be cusing lots of problems with clattering and such. 2 or 3* would prolly give problems mich less 8*. Retarding usually causes overheating not advance..
Big Jim

 

[barbefunkoramaque]

okay today I fired it up... got it running warm... pulled the spout and indeed the timing was off as it was yesterday.

Well I retimed it from being retarded back to 10 degrees and all is well.

Now I still have the overheating in the 210 to 220 range and once its there it stays there.

I swapped out my fan clutch from the Bronco II that seemed to have a little more resistance.

Remember I have bypassed my heater core and am waiting on the part.

Would that extra volume make a difference?

Also, like I said My coolant ant is like maybe 20 (Coolant) 80 percent water. I don't want to put new in yet until I run it in and fix the cooling.

No more chattering so timing is good now.

I am letting it cool and planning on tightening that valve lash I have 4 5 6 side. I will pop Out the AC Condensor which is unused and never will be probably.

I will pull some codes too.

 

[gotmudd]

i don't know about your motor, but i do know that on the V8's that if you remove the dist. cap and turn the engine by hand so that the timing pointer is at top dead center the rotor should line up with the number one terminal on your cap. if it looks off [ opposite of where it should be] don't panic, just turn your motor one more revolution. if it is close at that point, it should be dead on or if it is off, as you suspect by one or two teeth, then you have a decision to make. you can correct it by re-pulling the distributor, or you can move your plug wires to match rotor position. i had to do that on my 390 and it runs just fine.