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R 12 recharge kit


Tex9367

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So I called autozone asking if they sold R 12 air conditioning kits. They told me that they are so old and that I need to change my air conditioning unit to 134. I found recharge kits for R 12s online and I was wondering which brand of a recharge kit should I get? I don't want to change to 134 because I want to keep my 1990 Bronco II a classic.
BTW I am very new to the Ford family and even newer to broncos in general.
 


Uncle Gump

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I thought you had to have a licence to buy R12?

My fleet has either come with R134a from the factory or has been converted.
 

Tex9367

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I see kits sold at like Walmart and the like. I'm just trying to get a recharge kit. I think the license maybe getting the whole unit maybe?
 

broncogal

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Hello, First off, the rules and regulations on buying and or selling Refrigerant are Very Clear, but Vague to Most People. You MAY, or MAY NOT be asked for your EPA Card (license) depending on who you buy from. Now, as you may know, R-12 was on the Environmental hit list First in 1994-95, and was banned from manufacture. BUT, It was so popular, and So much Made, you can still find it every now and then on eBay, without producing your EPA card. Keep in mind, your system holds 3 to 4 pounds of R-12, and if you are short (undercharged), you have a leak, that will NOT fix itself, and needs to be repaired or you will need to keep feeding it Refrigerant. As far as a kit goes, you can find an old set of gages, and a can tap online, and at yard sales for very cheap, if you look real hard.

Good Luck

PS:, I should have noted that i worked in this HVAC Trade, from Auto Air, to Commercial Air, for many years, Retired now, and Happy !!
 
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Tex9367

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How would I know if I am undercharged?
 

broncogal

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The first sign of a possible low on charge is lack of cooling of course. I will tell you the Professional Way first: Hook up your High and Low side Gages to access system charging ports.
On an 80 or so degree day, you will read about 35# Psig for(R-12) on the low suction side, and the suction line,( just after the Evaporator), should be cold to the touch. The high side, hose, "just after the condenser" should be very hot to the touch, and the "sight glass should be bubble free".

Gitter Done Way: Pop the hood, start the vehicle, and set thermostat to full cool in the recirc. mode. Check the sight glass for bubbles, feel the hoses for temps, and charge as needed to clear the sight glass.

Looking for possible low charge leaks: Do a visual check of compressor, and all hoses, and both Refrigerant access ports (high and low side) looking for oil residue.
The Compressor Crankcase holds 10 or so ounces of refrigerant oil, that migrates thru out the system, and can be a tattle tale for a Refrigerant leak, ie. oil residue. Also, the Compressor has a rotating shaft seal, just behind the clutch and pulley that can leak if the seal got scratched or damaged from wear, etc. Check charging port Shrader, and or Service Valves for leaks and be sure they have good brass caps with seals installed.

Good Luck
 

broncogal

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PS: I forgot to mention one Important thing to check even before you do any of the above, and that is a leaking Heater Control Valve, or Door.
Make sure your Heating system is completely closed off, and isolated, or you will be trying to Heat and Cool, or "Blend Hot and Cold Supply Air" at the same time.
 
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85_Ranger4x4

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I converted mine, the only outward difference is the valves which in 2023 I feel is pretty minor.
 

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