Using Stock Carb with Duraspark Conversion on 2.8

[lkmiddleton]

Need Help Using Stock Carb with Duraspark Conversion on 2.8

I recently purchased a dirt cheap BII that wasn't running. Started through the usual stuff. Made sure the engine wasn't seized up, checked the starter, battery, other fluid levels, etc. I just put a kit on the stock feedback carb and then saw information on converting to a duraspark ignition and believe this would be the way to go. I have to buy a new distributor anyway. I have found some good info on the conversion process itself, however I would like some more detailed info on how EXACTLY to use my stock 2150A carb. What alterations do I need to make to it? I need to keep it for a year or so due to cost and since I just put $30 in it with a kit. I live in West Texas, and have no need for all the emission stuff, and since I have to get a new distributor anyway, I thought the duraspark was the way to go. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Psychopete]

I don't think you really want to go there, your carburetor relies on the computer. I have read other threads on this subject, but I can't think of keywords to get me to them. You're just going to really have to dig.

This is worth while to read IMO post from Will are relevant, particularly #23.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114075

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Mine ran pretty good with the stock carb just hook the vacuum advance on manifold vacuum. As for the carb I found smaller high speed jets are the ticket. Get some #43-44jets and see how she does. You can fab up a metering block but I dont think it did much good it still ran way rich with the #50 jets in the stock carb. I will try and find the link for the meterinig block.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/500837/3

 

[lkmiddleton]

Thanks for the link. What do I do with all the vacuum line attachments on the carb body? Plug them?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The only vacuum on the stock feedback carb is PCV and choke pull off the one on the base pointing to the radiator is dead and the other 90 degree switch is for the acclelerator pump when you apply vacuum it turns off the accelerator pump. You can just cap what is not being used.

 

[martin]

The metering block should work fine without any other alterations to the carb. I used mine for years with good results. It does however need to be adjusted to ge the mixture right. You can use the existing O2 sensor to tune the the block, it should be explained in the article.

 

[lkmiddleton]

What about the spacer under the carb on top of the manifold, with the EGR valve attached. Do I replace that? There are also vacuum lines on the passenger side of the spacer under the choke. Do i cap those? Thanks for all the help.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Just get a plate and block off the egr. Are you talking the vacuum tree off the intake manifold if so one goes to the vacuum advance on the dizzy and the other is your brake booster everything else gets plugged your not using. I am still using the preheater door from the exhaust maniflod drivers side, carbon cannister I put a restrictor in line so it constantly pulls the fumes out of the cannister put a new cat in and run the air pump full time in the crossover tube into the heads. All most guys run is the vacuum advance and the brake booster and plug all other vacuum ports.

 

[lkmiddleton]

Thanks for the help...my preheater shroud was off before I bought it. Dont know where it is. Would it be useful to track down another? I've seen some threads about just taking the air pump off entirely. What benefit do you get from tying into heads? Cannister too...why not just chunk it? Thanks!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I spent alot of money trying to get the computer to work to no avail. Pretty much new everything So i`m just using it up. The preheater duct helps in real cold weather pretty simple system same as the vapor cannister like I said I put a restrictor to reduce vacuum pressure to it not to affect vacuum pressure at an idle I hate the smell of fuel in the engine bay. I 86ed the auto choke just let the engine run a couple minutes and go. Probably the bwest thing I did was put in smaller high speed jets I no longer get that black smoke when pulling a steep hill just run the idle air rich for a better idle and it supplements the high speed jets also #46 jets did good #43 jets do alot better pulling a mountain pass. I`m getting ready to tune up for the winter anxious to look at the plugs it still starts and idles just fine cold without the high idle. The choke really sucks the fuel. I tried to get the egr to work but there is no way to control how far it opens so just capped it. Up in the air on ditching the air pump but its not doing any harm and fairly quiet. If your getting black smoke at startup it helps alot to put new valve guide seals in you can do it without pulling the heads the tech library explains how I used the air pressure method worked pretty slick.