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Did you swap out the old feedback carb when you converted it?

Started up the plow truck and pulled it into the shop the other day.... topped up the fluids and checked all the lights,wipers and heater, aired up the tires, checked the winch. The bump stops at max blade height need some repair but its otherwise ready to go, just have to put the blade on when...

Might as well be ME..... all you guys down south with your rust free trucks make me jealous :drool:

A full duraspark conversion with a 2150 is the way to go, you get a small but noticable improvement in power and very clean easy to maintain electrical/vacumn systems

My setup is exactly as the trs tech article and my coil doesnt get hot, warm yes but not hot. There is no resistor needed with the conversion done as the article shows.

but does it shut off? lol, Im guessing you got that issue figured out. Let me know how your fuel mileage changes once you get a few miles on it, I dont think mine improved much, get maybe 22mpg on the highway now, was around 18 before. It does run better and have a noticable improvement in...

So first it wouldnt start.. now it wont stop.. lol just guessing here but I would trace the 'ignition on' wire you spliced to the coil and make sure it isnt connected to the alternator somewhere allowing it to remain hot as long as the alt is turning.

If it starts at all then the distributer is at least close to where it needs to be, could still be off by a tooth tho. Set the timing mark on the front of the crankshaft to TDC and check where the dist rotor is pointing, make sure you still have room to turn the dist for timing. Check all the...

In the plug from the ignition switch you should be able to find a wire that is hot only when the ignition is in the 'cranking' position, and another one that is hot only when the ignition is in the 'on' position... splice them together and run to the + coil.

So Im confused... are you using the original square coil connected with the electronic ign module and with a vacumn distributer? and still have the computer hooked up? if so why? I did everything exactly as the TRS tech article and threw away everything else, no computer, no polution control...

I dont 'think' that coil will work.. but I didnt try it.

Did you buy all new electronics or get used stuff? I bought all new and did the conversion over xmas just 3 months ago. I have my B2 inside the shop at work every evening, could go over it in more detail via txt message if you want? Im old and forgetful but I think there was two wires needed...

Kind of sounds like you might just be missing a wire from the ignition switch to the coil, or possibly the wrong wire maybe. Not much help really but I did the duraspark conversion on my 85 B2 using the TRS tech article and never had a problem with it.

Just an update... should have gone duraspark years ago, been drivin the B2 daily for almost a month now, close to 2000km and no issues or concerns, getting about 22/23mpg in 4x2 with rpm around 2300 at 100km per hour. I left it outside a few times in cold weather and it fires up better than...

Probably would have to retard it a couple degrees not advance it, but ya you can mess with it a little, trial and error method, leave the bolt just loose enough that you can turn the dist with a little force and go for test run, stop turn test, until you get the best results, make sure you get...

My '85 2.8L only has one mark on the crank pulley at tdc, if its lined up with the pointer you drop the dist in with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire, should just need to fine tune it from there.

I almost have the new shop air supply system finished so I need to start research on how to go about doing a nice camo paint, Im thinking 3-4 colors from black to light gray to blend in with winter foilage and snow since thats usually the case for hunting season around here. If anyone has tips...

After doing the duraspark swap I have alot of room under the hood so Im thinking about the possabilities of running dual batteries and a higher output alternator.... ne1 have examples, ideas and/or suggestions?

Just an FYI for ne1 doing the conversion... you will need a smaller belt for the alternator after you remove the air/smog pump, which now happens to be the same size as the power steering belt so you can just ask for that instead of confusing the parts person behind the counter. Goodyear /...

You dont need to win the lottery.. but you can slowly collect the parts instead of buying everything at once, thats what I did, or if you got a used carb and distributer that would probably knock at least $300 off the total cost. I bought everything new and spent about $750. There is such a...