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If ever anyone was to ask me what I wanted for my B2, I'd tell 'em $5000. The first person to come up with $5000 can buy it. It doesn't owe me anything, it's cheap to drive, and I already fixed all the major problems. Why would I sell it? I don't think I'll be selling it any time soon. :D...

I'll admit to having just skim read the thread thus far, so sorry if anything is repeated. My vehicle is an '87 Bronco 2, 2.9L, 2wd, M5OD manual transmission (swapped in), 3.45 gears, and 235/75R15 tires. I fixed the EGR system on my '87 and the MPG went up quite substantially. It ran...

LOL @ the seatbelt sticking out the drivers door in the last pic. :icon_rofl: Somebody does need to rescue that poor thing though. It looks like it could be fixed easily enough. But not for $1250!

Yeah, I think another trip to the junkyard is in order. I just saw this in the tech library: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Seats.html I'll probably print it out and head up to the junkyard sometime in the near future. All I ask is that they're the right color. I don't need a...

Been there. I find that most seats from Bronco 2's or early Explorers aren't much better than the one I've got. Not only that, it's difficult to find the right color. Either that, or the window / door of the wrecked vehicle was left open and the seat rotted. Thanks for the suggestion though...

Ok here's the deal. My 1987 Bronco 2 needs a driver seat. 1. The back is broke, one side leans back more than the other. I had it welded up and reinforced locally. That improved it a lot, but it's still not right. 2. The previous owner smoked like a chimney and burned a hole in the seat...

You know, there's a low pressure cutoff switch that you can adjust. Between that and varying the amount of R134a that you put in, you can pretty much set the temperature coming out of the vents.

+1 to the full R134a retrofit. The proper way to do it is to have the system drained, then pull it apart and put in new o-rings, and a new accumulator / receiver / drier. You can flush each part individually too, except the compressor. Also look very closely at the hoses. Any that have dirty...

I don't think the A4LD is really a bad transmission. I had one go 200k miles in a '92 Explorer (enduring 3 different owners and infrequent fluid changes), before the overdrive went out. I think that's a reasonable lifespan for any automatic transmission. A decent transmission shop should be...

There's no way to really know how "siezed" it is from the outside. What's probably happened is that one or more cylinder has rusted to the rings and / or pistons. I'd squirt some PB Blaster down the cylinders and see what happens. I guess how long it lasts depends on how rusted it is. If...

I see. You might want to change your profile. In that year, they were still putting FM145 manual transmissions in the Bronco 2's. The A4LD automatic is longer than an FM145, by 2" if I remember correctly. They were probably giving you one for a manual transmission. The other thing you could...

What manual transmission is in it? I see from your public profile that you have a manual transmission. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ManualTransmission.html

So much for global warming, 'eh? I don't know. Mexico maybe?

No. You should use Mercon ATF or Redline D4. The MTL has the undesirable side affect of making it difficult to shift when the temperature gets below about 20F. It can take a while to shift into second the first few times with mine, in winter. In summer it works fine. If you're in a warm...

I have an M5OD-R1 in mine. It's one I got from a junkyard. I took the chance and just put it in, assuming it would work. It works, but it makes gear noise. I changed the fluid to Redline MTL from Redline D4. It quieted the noise significantly. So, if your transmission is generally quiet...

Here's what I'm using: Diff fluid: Redline 75w90 Engine: Redline (currently 0w20, would recommend 0w30 or 5w30, depending on temperature) What transmission are you putting in?

Good to hear you got the oil pressure up high enough that the light goes out. 1. I haven't had experience with the RABS system not working, so I can't help you there. 2. The EGR solenoid is supposed to buzz for a while after you turn it off. It's the way they were designed. It's not a problem.

Have you even read the whole thread? The oil light is coming on, when it's warmed up! That means that the engine is very worn out. The only way to get enough pressure to make sure everything has oil, in his particular engine, is to raise the viscosity. Yes, I've had a 2.9L V6 apart. I know...

In your motor Charles, I'd run a synthetic 5w50. Once the oil warms up and thins out, the pressure gets too low, and the oil light comes on. That means the motor is worn out. You therefore need a thicker oil when it's warm to compensate. This will work in the short term; in the long term you...

You know, in these motors I've never had any luck with anything but a Ford OEM thermostat. All the aftermarket ones seem to make the engine run cold. The Ford one will be stamped "Made in Germany." The package will say it's made in Mexico though, so who knows. :D