43" tires on a BII

[D'cheat]

X2

There are quite a few teams that use them in King Of The Hammers races with no problem. Most airshocks have internal bumpstops, so landings are not an issue. Id run a separate hydro- bump stop just to be safe.
Its all about how you valve them and adjust the "spring rate" with the oil. My rally car had maybe 6" of travel and I could land 10' jumps at 80mph and my spine is still intact. So somethings working.
Monster trucks use them Doubt that we can take a harder landing then them!

 

[The Jester Race]

this is sweet...

just had to


only thing i could maybe suggest, is if you do lower it and you end up reworking the front chackes, i was always told having them at a close to 45 degrees is best for a good ride and aloowence for the leafe to get full advantage of stuffing, and dropping out, just incase you didnt know, but still two thumbs up, like that alot:icon_thumby::icon_thumby:

Thanks! Yours is pretty bitchin too.:icon_thumby: It was actually one of the rigs I was looking at when I was when I was planning my build(fullwidth).

Rancho suggests between 8 and 11 degrees for those springs(Rancho 44150). I tried 45 degrees the first time around and the springs were STIFF. Too much angle doesn't allow the springs to work. I found that out the hard way.

Can't wait to get out and wheel it.:icon_hornsup:

-Jester

 

[RUTH]

ok cool, i was just throwin it out their, but im glad it works, and i suppose it prolly does depend on the springs and such... and yeah monter trucks are crazy.... cant believe how far they have come

 

[The Jester Race]

ok cool, i was just throwin it out their, but im glad it works, and i suppose it prolly does depend on the springs and such... and yeah monter trucks are crazy.... cant believe how far they have come

Hijack: How is that D44 holding up with those 42s?

-Jester

 

[RUTH]

havnt actualy broke anything, but i completly rebuilt it when i started, but i also know its weak, so i drivel like that lol, i didnt plan on running this size tire, but i got a good deal i couldnt pass up.. so for now it is what it is till i can get some money back in savings..

 

[RUTH]

one other thing though, my buddy is running a ranger with 42" iroks, and we have wheel hops bounced that thing a few times on the rocks and surprisingly didn't break it. so i dont know.. I JUST WANT A 60

 

[D'cheat]

Your rig is not bad at all. A little tall, but nothing that screams "TIPPY!" Its about normal. Tell you what. Split the difference. Get bigger tires!

A quick way to tell your tipping point: Take a frontal picture of your truck at ride height. Draw a line from the bottom of a tire to the opposite corner of your hood. That is your safety margin. If that line passes vertical, then your going to tip. The taller the truck, the sharper the angle of that margin.

My axle is already forward, 6". It would be pretty easy to lose 2", lose the blocks in the rear and take 2" out of the front shackles. I'll have to see how it works, if it feels too tipsy I have options. I'm not afraid to chop mine, though its not a daily driver it still frequents the pavement so it needs to be legal and somewhat comfortable.

 

[The Jester Race]

one other thing though, my buddy is running a ranger with 42" iroks, and we have wheel hops bounced that thing a few times on the rocks and surprisingly didn't break it. so i dont know.. I JUST WANT A 60

:icon_rofl:. That makes me feel better about my 37s on my HP44.

-Jester

 

[D'cheat]

Using Ruth's rig... Again

 

[The Jester Race]

Your rig is not bad at all. A little tall, but nothing that screams "TIPPY!" Its about normal. Tell you what. Split the difference. Get bigger tires!

A quick way to tell your tipping point: Take a frontal picture of your truck at ride height. Draw a line from the bottom of a tire to the opposite corner of your hood. That is your safety margin. If that line passes vertical, then your going to tip. The taller the truck, the sharper the angle of that margin.

Thats an option too, I have the gears for it(5.13). Great tip on the tipping point.

Thanks

-Jester

 

[D'cheat]

Your D44's are lasting mostly due to our trucks in general. They dont weigh anything, and even the 4.0 is not exactly a torque monster of an engine. Let alone the 2.9. Our engines will stall before we can snap most things. Unless your running a crazy crawl ratio. Then the motor will be spinning so fast, it could jump start a small planet.

 

[The_Dealer]

My axle is already forward, 6". It would be pretty easy to lose 2", lose the blocks in the rear and take 2" out of the front shackles. I'll have to see how it works, if it feels too tipsy I have options. I'm not afraid to chop mine, though its not a daily driver it still frequents the pavement so it needs to be legal and somewhat comfortable.

Here is a pic of mine before any fender trimming.

do u have a build thread?

 

[RUTH]

hey thats no fair, the front of mine is doved lol and about the torque totally true, i mean i like my 4.0 a lot, but under a load that would brake an axle, yeah just stall, cant wait to get my doubler in

D'cheat - how much for a set of chevy 63's in reno.. winnemucca has no junk yard wtf

 

[The Jester Race]

do u have a build thread?

Sorry, no build thread. My intentions were to do one, but I kept forgetting to stop and take pictures. I took a few pictures along the way but not enough to really do a build thread.

-Jester

 

[BONES]

Subscribed!!

Wicked! Can't wait to see where you go with this build!!

Keep us posted man!

 

[The_Dealer]

i found a 79 bronco d44 front for 100 bucks, should i snatch it up? will it be the same as swapping in an eb d44?

 

[The Jester Race]

i found a 79 bronco d44 front for 100 bucks, should i snatch it up? will it be the same as swapping in an eb d44?

I believe that the 79 bronco D44 is full width where the EB D44 is narrow, but other then that it should be the same, coils with radius arms. I paid $200 for my high pinion D44, so I think its a good price if you want to go full width, or put the work in and narrow it.

Lots of good info here.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.htm


-Jester

 

[The_Dealer]

i got a f/w 8.8 in the shed...so maybe ill snatch it up. will it be the same process as swapping in an eb d44?

 

[The Jester Race]

i got a f/w 8.8 in the shed...so maybe ill snatch it up. will it be the same process as swapping in an eb d44?

The same process? Yeah, remove all the old crap and put all the shiny new stuff in its place. I don't know. How do you plan on setting up your suspension? Coils? leaves? Stock wheel base? Extended wheel base? Stock mounts(coil buckets, etc.) on the frame?

I don't think going full width is any more work then a narrowed SAS. Do yourself a favor, spend the money and set your steering up the right way the first time. Don't try and jerry rig it, it's not the spot to try and save money. It's not worth the headache.

-Jester

 

[The_Dealer]

i mean same process being the same as doing an eb d44 swap, using eb coils, eb radius bracket, and fab a trac bar bracket(or get poly p, ballistic, or ruffstuff bracket). think ill keep stock mounting points till i get everything right on it, then shift the front axle forward about 4 or 5"...but at the same time it would be easy to do leaves and shift the axle forward right out of the gate, using some waggy springs with the offset pin

def not going to jerry rig anything...my newborn rides in this thing. gonna get the axle this weekend if i can get off work, and start tearing it apart for a overhaul, then start collecting parts. i have 4.88's in the 8.8 how bad will that suck with 38's?