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5.4




85_Ranger4x4

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V8 Engine Swap
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With enough butter anything can fit.

IMO you would be better off to find a new home for the 5.4 and find something that won't fill your engine compartment fender to fender.

I'd take the 2V, cut my losses on the size issue, and just be grateful for what you did get vs the 5.0.
Awesome powerband... I think it will be a nightmare to fit in a TTB RBV though. If it was remotely close to looking like it would fit I would do it in a heartbeat, I love my 2v 5.4 in my dd. My V8 Ranger is easier to do basic things than my 5.4 F-150 though... granted you work on them all day so it isn't as big of a deal to you but I did a cam and head upgrade on my 302 with the engine in the truck fairly easily which rather impressed me.

the 5.4 looks good on paper, dad has a '05 superduty with one, ive drove it but havent "used" it, hes got a plow but last winter there was barely enough snow here to get the leaf blower out, let alone a truck with a blade. all the crap ive read about with the 5.4 (cam phaser issue, spark plugs breaking when removing) make me want to stay with the old-school small block 302/351, no they dont deliver near the power, but i know there reliable, dont require tons of extra stuff (computer, special tools, ect) personally my "dream engine swap" would be the cummins 4bt diesel.
The 2V has none of the issues that you list, they only blow out spark plugs which isn't really all that common.

If you run an EFI anything you will need a computer to run it.
 

fdtrucks

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I have no worries about fab work getting it in, or any mechanical issues making it function. I am more worried about a space to do the work at. Im not getting started until I get back from a school the Army is sending me to in VA, and a family trip to FL. That puts me in the mid to late November tme. My aunt and uncle have an old farm with some empty morgan buildings they said I can use anytime. Only shitty part is its 2 hrs away. I have a single car garage here, but its full of kids bikes, tools, and my gear.

On a good note is I was able to trade some paint work for some parts. I picked up some Navigator 4v heads, Cobra R intake and cams.
 

shane96ranger

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Soooo, I have a question or three. You can just slap 4V heads on a 2V block? Or are there a bunch if changes that need to accommodate the change? I would guess the pistons and timing chain setup need to be changed????

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adsm08

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Soooo, I have a question or three. You can just slap 4V heads on a 2V block? Or are there a bunch if changes that need to accommodate the change? I would guess the pistons and timing chain setup need to be changed????
I believe the block and rotating assemblies are the same. The timing drive is obviously going to be somewhat different between the various versions as the 2 and 3 valve units have 1 cam and the 4V have a DOHC setup.
 

rockin86ranger

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Adsm, have you seen the 3/8" impact method for plug removal? There are a couple videos on youtube on this. I'd be a little gun shy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIQevez-DG0
Dad is Ford Certified Master Technician and he has been using this method for ages, he very rarely breaks a plug. If he did it is usually the back plugs that break, I believe it is due to other places just not changing them when they change the others and letting them build up worse.

I considered a 4.6l swap into the ranger but it was more work/money than I wanted to put into it at the time. Maybe in 10years the coyote motors will be cheap enough to throw into it.
 

fdtrucks

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I need a different front engine cover for it to work. Also the Cobra R intake is for a 4.6. There is a spacer you need to use to put it on 5.4 heads. It changes the angle of the injectors a bit. Which scares some DIY people. That's why it's not a common change made. I've built a few mod engines for mustangs and have seen some badass results.
 

adsm08

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I wasn't paying a lot of attention to what he was saying, but I didn't hear where he told you to put the restrictor on the air line for the gun. I can hear in the way it is hitting that it doesn't seem to be running at full pressure though.
 

fdtrucks

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Hopefully your shop has a filter/regulator at each air drop. Just choke down the psi there.

I have a nice Aircat 3/8 dr impact that I love to death. It has really good trigger control. I got that baby free too!
 

adsm08

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Hopefully your shop has a filter/regulator at each air drop. Just choke down the psi there.

I have a nice Aircat 3/8 dr impact that I love to death. It has really good trigger control. I got that baby free too!
No, we have filters, no regulators.

I have an electric 3/8 that would probably do the trick.
 

fdtrucks

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I've been fortunate when doing mod engine plugs. I hit each plug hole with a crapload of ob blaster or liquid wrench and let it sit overnight. Then I run it up to op temp the next morning. Haven't broken one yet.

I may have to try the impact method. My f150 is ready for a set soon. Might be my test dummy...
 

shane96ranger

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I've heard of the PB Blaster, or Carb Cleaner method. I would be worried about all of that crud going down in the combustion chamber.

I'm fairly certain my 4.6 had the original plugs in it when I changed them a couple months ago. Ford quit using the plugs with shorter threads quite some time ago, and these are short. It for sure had the original plug wires. Over 205,000 on the originals.

EDIT: Pics of a plug, and wire (note the 1996 on it).....


 
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adsm08

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Adsm, have you seen the 3/8" impact method for plug removal? There are a couple videos on youtube on this. I'd be a little gun shy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIQevez-DG0
Ok, just tried this and pulled out my last plug. 7 out of 8 came out in 1 piece, including 2 that I thought I had broken before I remembered about this and tried to losen them by hand. the one that broke was #4, the one way in the back.

Sorry Shane, can't rep you yet. I gotta spread the love around first.
 

shane96ranger

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How hard was the broken plug to extract?

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem
 

adsm08

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We have the good extractor, but I was pussy-footing it because I snapped the electrode off. It took me longer to get that one plug out than it did to get the other 7.

It isn't hard, it is just delicate because, despite what the tool maker says, it is possible to push the ceramic in too far.
 

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